Xantia Driver door lock barrel

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 25 Aug 2010, 19:59

Folks,
Don't know if you can help me, but remote fob failed 7 years ago, so have been using key in drivers door lock since then.
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All OK, up to recently, when it only works intermittently.
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Barrel either spins with nil resistance, or it will "catch" correctly, and work, or, will catch but be impossible to turn.
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Same with spare key.
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Any advice would be much appreciated.
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Many Tks, Steve

spider · Post by **spider** » 25 Aug 2010, 20:05

I remember seeing this on Expert vans (same lock style)

If you insert the key fully (as normal) and then pull it out a tiny fraction (like 0.5mm to 1mm) then try and turn it, it may work.

Not ideal I know but a quick 'temporary' solution to get you a few days more use.

Not sure if its advisable to dismantle this lock type (or if indeed that's sensibly possible) , not too sure about flooding it with some aerosol grease either (in theory that may help but at the same time attract dirt so make it worse)

I think the fault is actually wear on the key in most cases.

Sorry that's not a lot of help though.

JamesQB · Post by **JamesQB** » 25 Aug 2010, 20:48

I've cured this a couple of times now by squirting a good amount of WD40 into the lock, then using the key repeatedly on it. Once freed, you can follow through with some thicker oil if you like. The theory of it attracting more dirt could be used to abstain from ever using oil or grease on anything, but in fact dirt will always accumulate anyway, and I'd rather have oil in place which counteracts the frictional effects of dirt!

We use WD at work a lot to free sticking/spinning locks at the advice of the locksmith. Works extremely well and doesn't seem to cause repeat trouble; in fact, it seems to prevent it. Bear in mind, locks need oil or grease as there is a lot of metal to metal contact. They come coated in grease internally from the manufacturers when new.

fred1 · Post by **fred1** » 25 Aug 2010, 21:49

Hi,

The xantia has an anti tamper feature in its locks which is designed to cause the barrel to rotate freely when an incorrect key is used.

However, if your correct key has become worn with use it will not fit correctly and be seen as an incorrect key resulting in the same free rotation.

Sometimes it is a case of just pushing in the key quite hard.

I had this on my old xantia (sadly gone to the brakers at 375K due to HG failure).

I replaced the barrels with newer ones from a breakers. It is a simple job there is a release button feature to release the barrels from the locks in the side of the door - full details in Haines manual.

Of course you do end up with a key for the locks and another for the ignition.

Regards

John

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 25 Aug 2010, 22:02

Try WD40 before looking for more difficult causes. I've had your problem - caused by sticking tumblers not always following the profile of the key (and occasionally preventing the key from being withdrawn!). If only 1 tumbler sticks slightly, and isn't pushed back against the key by its spring, the barrel will spin freely as though the key isn't the correct profile. A couple of good squirts of WD40 plus working the key in- and-out a number of times will free up the tumblers and wash any dirt out. You'll need to mop up the excess with rag or kitchen towel.

A slightly bent key will also cause problems: the lock has 4 sets of tumblers (at 0º, 90º, 180º and 270º), so a slight bend is enough to put a pair of opposing tumblers just far enough out of position to cause problems

HDI Dave · Post by **HDI Dave** » 25 Aug 2010, 23:07

fred1 wrote: I had this on my old xantia (sadly gone to the brakers at 375K due to HG failure).

I replaced the barrels with newer ones from a breakers. It is a simple job there is a release button feature to release the barrels from the locks in the side of the door - full details in Haines manual.

Of course you do end up with a key for the locks and another for the ignition.

Regards

John

I was thinking the same thing,barrel's worn out,(op has been using the key for 7 years,whereas we all use the remote?) and excluding the 1%, door card off,actual door rods/mechanism is nakt?

or some oil might free the (sticking?) tumblers off,as suggested.

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 25 Aug 2010, 23:25

Wow.....so many replies in the space of 3 hours!!!!
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I have carefully tried to blow in some powdered graphite a few weeks ago, but I really don't think it has been getting as distributed as much as I wanted. (ie...hold small silver flap open, graphite offered up in fold of a sheet of paper, blow gently....where did that go??)
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Anyhow....will try wd40 trick tomorrow, of that finish line spray teflon stuff.
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MANY thanks all your attention/time to respond.
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Rgds, Steve

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 26 Aug 2010, 08:53

Is it a Mk1 (seperate grill, and key fob is IR rather than radio) ?

If it is, could be that the fob has become unsynchronised with the reciever.

First thing to do is check the fob is transmitting.
Point it at a digital camera (mobile phone or web cam or pop to Curry's etc) and press the button, the LED on the end should light up white.

If it doesn't, then you can pick up new internals from ebay regularly but make sure they're the same.
To remove the old internals, shine a light inside and you'll see a plastic tab that holds the PCB in place, gently bend it out the way and pull the PCB out.

If your fob is working, then (unless you have a spare key to put in the ignition) take the internals out, and now my memory has failed me of the exact details, but basically you turn the ignition to one of the positions, and hold the fob close to the reciever and press the button like mad for a set amount of time.

Someone with a better memory than me will give the right details

fred1 · Post by **fred1** » 26 Aug 2010, 09:49

Hi,

The xantia infra red key fobs often fail because one of the soldered connections from the IR LED breaks or becomes "unsoldered", similarly for the legs on the two push buttons.

Often a quick touch with a soldering iron to reconnect the loose leg to the PCB will fix the problem. Also always worth running your eye over the PCB for any other loose or broken links or connections while you have it out.

You do not need to dismantle the door to release the lock barrels, there is a small access hole sealed by a rubber grommet in the side/edge of the door.

With the key in the lock you put a long thin screw driver through the access hole and depress the lock barrel retaining ring. You can then pull out the barrel with the key. To fit new barrel you just push it in untill you hear the clip lock into position.

Regards

John

Martin Beevers · Post by **Martin Beevers** » 26 Aug 2010, 13:02

I had this issue with my S1. I ordered a new key from the main stealers and hey presto, it worked in the lock fine. Turned out to be a worn key. Cost 15 quid for a new key, and will only work if your sure the locks are the originals...

I then managed to get a new fob and sort out the remote central locking.

I have a couple of brand new single button fobs if you need 1. I suspect you will need the 2 button type tho.

StevieM · Post by **StevieM** » 26 Aug 2010, 17:23

Fixed!!!!!
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Good squirt of WD40....both keys work reliably now!!
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I don't think I really managed to lubricate it sufficiently in the past with graphite.
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May have flooded too much in now, as switch which activates c/locking sometimes isn't quite making.
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Anyhow.....Happy here....
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Many thanks again for all comments, Rgds, Steve