Xantia Brake problems

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bbb
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Post by bbb »

cheers for the replies.
managed to get the caliper to pivot up and both pads can be removed with ease so no probs there. Not tried to re-wind the piton yet but will try the screwdriver method, does it have a very fine thread pitch or is it just difficult to get anything other than a small degree of rotation?

Got some decent torq bits and was suprised to find the disk screws came out very easily (with a breaker bar).

Will the axle stands require wooden blocks to prevent the seam on the sill collapsing or can they go inboard of the jacking tabs?

Thanks
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Post by Xaccers »

Only rest the sill on the actual jacking points, the 3 inch curved length with a tab at each end.
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Post by addo »

The piston threads are actually very coarse quad helixes. So long as you turn it a little clockwise as it's forced in, you'll be fine.

Image Image

Example shown is a 405, but the operation is basically identical.
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Post by bbb »

finally got round to changing the pads and discs despite the rain. Took a while on the first one but the second side took about twenty minutes. All the bolts and bleed nipples came undone without issue but did use plenty of plus gas and both pistons re-wound without issues. when bleeding the old LHM looked like cooking oil.

Although I've stripped cleaned and rebuilt no end of bike calipers I stupidly tried bleeding the first caliper without actually securing the piston :roll: , cue lots of LHM and even more swearing, it was all going so well before that. Getting the piston past the dust seal was a hell of a job. After a strip and full clean re-assemled and put the pads in then did the other side in about 20 mins.

Many thanks for the help. :D
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Post by bbb »

bled the rear brakes yesterday and taxed the car this morning. Brakes are as bad as they were before and the pad warning light still flickers :( . Still getting the sensation of the brakes applying and releasing (non ABS).

so far:
New pads and discs up front.
LHM changed.
Front and calipers bled.
Rear pads have plentyof meat left.

I can live with the warning light issue as I know the pads are ok, but the brake pressure is a problem. I can't here any clicking from the front accumulator but the aux belt is loose, and causing me a few headaches, if this wasn't pressuring the hydro pump sufficiently would I be seeing more problems?

Thanks
bbb
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Post by bbb »

wife has just returned from work, the car's suspension is pretty much solid. Am I looking at having to replace all the spheres?
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Post by Xantidote »

I expect other more knowledgeable members will be along soon.

My first thought would be to get the auxillary belt tightened first, to ensure pump is getting properly driven. Can't believe all the spheres would become faulty all of a sudden. Does the car rise when you raise the suspension to high, which at least gives you some indication of whether the pump's working?
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Post by RichardW »

If the belt was not tight enough you would have no PAS and Xantia steering is 'kin heavy without! Also, the STOP light would be on all the time. If suspension is solid, and car is riding at correct height (approx 3 finges twixt tyre and front wheel arch and roughly level front to back) then new spheres requried. I suspect new acc required too which should cure the brake pulsing. Spheres only £25 or so each at GSF so not the end of the world.
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Post by bbb »

picked up a sphere from gsf today. anybody recommend a specialist who could fit it for a reasonable price in the derby / burton area?
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Post by Deanxm »

The spheres are very easy to change and there are a few good guides on here as to how, not tempted to save a little money and do it yourself?
let us know if you have any specific questions.

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Post by myglaren »

Do as Dean says bbb and have a gander at this thread - there is much more info there than you need to just change the accumulator but it's all good and worthwhile knowing in preparation.
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Post by bbb »

have given it some thought as it looks to be a case of unscrew the old one, screw in the new one and re-pressurise the system, its the unscrewing the old one thats the problem. No sphere tool and getting under the car is an issue. Can it be chiselled off from above?

Need the car daily so can't afford to get part way through and find I can't remove it but have rendered the car undriveable.
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Post by Xaccers »

Axle stands, every Xantia owner should have a pair, they make working under the car not only safe but much easier.
Put car on high, place axle stands under jacking points (some jacking on the subframe up behind the front wheels may be needed), set car on low, amaze your friends as the front of the car tilts up giving you plenty of room to work under, undo bleed screw, turn engine off, job done.

Follow this to make your own tool
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=21850
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Post by HDI »

Improvise with a chain wrench or a big pipe wrench if you have one.
Personally I've never used a purpose made sphere tool !

Also, when tightening the replacement, Citroen advice is hand tight only. I just give them a tiny nip but definitely don't heave on them.
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Post by bbb »

got some axle stands as used them for the brakes but wasn't certain that the car would de-pressurise without weight on the front wheels. Have looked at the home made sphere tool so may give it a go or see if i can get hold of a massive hose clip.

would this chain wrench do the job, below the oil filter one?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Automot ... /d60/sd180
Last edited by bbb on 27 Jan 2011, 18:17, edited 1 time in total.
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