Cambelt tensioner plunger

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 25 Jul 2010, 23:05

I've made a tool, as per the Haynes manual, to hold back the tensioner plunger for the cambelt on a ZX 1.9D. The Haynes manual says to remove the two lower mounting bolts from the plunger housing so that you can slide the tool in (with bolts acting as dowels). However, one of the mounting bolts (the one nearest the plunger) won't come out because it fouls on the car's inner wing before it's all the way out of the hole. So I can't use the tool. I was wondering whether anybody has got this bolt out by jacking the engine up. There is a hole in the inner wing above the bolt but I'm wondering if I should jack the engine up that much or not.

Paul

spider · Post by **spider** » 26 Jul 2010, 20:46

I would of replied earlier had I seen this. Sorry to hear you've not sorted it yet.

I have not seen how much space there is on a ZX, I'd advise not staining the other mountings or any pipework etc by forcing it out more than it should move (the engine that is)

You (might) be able to just use the tool with one pin and holding the other end, although it will be fiddly as you`ll need another hand to fit the tensioner back. Near the end of the springs expansion as it were, there is not much tension. You just need to stop the plunger coming right out.

Hope that makes sense. I managed it on my own as I say, its not 'that' bad but if you can take any steps to stop the plunger falling out its well worth the extra time to do this.

If you were local (Derby) I would probably pop around and do it.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 26 Jul 2010, 22:25

Are you changing it or just following the damm hopeless stupid haynes method?????

To release the tensioner theres two 13mm bolts, well ones a nut the other is a bolt! The first if the tensioner pivot NUT, the other is a 13mm bolt thats hidden right under the Cam Shaft pully!! If you undo the TWO 13mm fastners mentioned above - and only slacken them, then with a good long screw driver, if you look down between the Cam sgaft sprocket and the head you can see the TOP of the tensioner, Lever the top of the tensioner backwards, then with a 13mm socket on the TOP 13mm nut, tighten it up!!! SIMPLE this then holds the tensioner away to change the belt!!

None of this make a tool s**t these stupid haynes book get you wasting time dooing!!!

PAul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 27 Jul 2010, 00:02

I'm changing the cambelt tensioner (the part with the pulley attached to it). I'm trying to keep the spring and plunger in the mounting so I don't have to mess with them.

I've now given up on the tool described in the Haynes manual. I've just finished making a two part tool of my own design which should work with the existing mounting bolts (bolted on). I'll try it out when the weather allows. If it works I'll post a picture of it here. If not then I'll let the spring come out and put it back by hand. I'm in South Wales, so a bit for from Derby, but thanks for the offer of help.

Paul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 27 Jul 2010, 00:09

One more question. Should I grease the back of the cambelt tensioner before I fit it (the new one)? It's metal sliding on metal and I was wondering whether a bit of copper grease or something would be a good idea.

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 27 Jul 2010, 07:50

i have changed these tensioners without any tools excluding myself,

i place the new tensioner only just on the pivot stud, put spring and plundger in place, push plundger fully home with a long bar, whilst at the same time slide the tensioner ferther onto its pivot stud and just under the plundger,

now with a 3/8th drive ratchet and a very short stubby extention placed into the 3/8th square hole in the tensioner back plate rotate anti clock wise whilst pushing the tensioner fully agains the engine block, then whilt holding it back fit the locking bolt

regards malcolm

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 28 Jul 2010, 23:11

I tried sliding the tool under the plunger and it wouldn't go in because the plunger is too strong. So I tried pushing the edge of the plunger with a hammer handle whilst sliding the tool in and that's too difficult as well as it saps your strength very quickly. I then used a long piece of wooden brush stale wedged between the edge of the plunger and the ground. That works. Knocking the bottom of the brush stale along the ground horizontally forces the plunger up and allows the tool to go in. However I had to stop because it went dark, so I'll continue tomorrow. I reckon I should be able to do it now. The problem for me was the spring sapping my strength but using the ground is a lot easier.

red_dwarfers · Post by **red_dwarfers** » 29 Jul 2010, 23:34

I used the open ended side of a largish spanner to push the plunger back up whilst sliding the arm on.

NewcastleFalcon · Post by **NewcastleFalcon** » 31 Jul 2010, 23:54

I used the same method as Malcolm today without any use of the special tool. Just pushed the plunger up with a sturdy bar and eased in the tensioner over the pivot stud.

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 03 Aug 2010, 00:13

Success!

I managed to put the new tensioner on eventually. I used a brush stale (to the ground) to hold the plunger up and then fitted the two part tool that I made to hold the plunger. It was a bit of a struggle but it worked in the end. It was a shame that I couldn't just use the brush stale on it's own, but unfortunately, the brush stale got in the way when trying to remove the tensioner, so I used the tool in the end.

Paul

spider · Post by **spider** » 03 Aug 2010, 11:00

Well done

I think different methods will work for different people (and cars) , they are a bit difficult to describe really and you have to find what 'works for you' as it were.