Xantia Error code 144 for Bosch Fuel Pump problem

[shaunlfc1]

Hi all,

Please see my other post regarding "engine diagnostic light".

But basically has anyone had this issue before and know how to replace the component in the pump that is causing this error?

Many thanks,

Shaun

[MikeT]

But basically has anyone had this issue before...

I've never heard of one failing but it's early days yet - they're only about 10 years old

and know how to replace the component in the pump that is causing this error?

Yes, quite a few of us on here could replace it, as could you if you're up for a bit of learning. There's several helpful posts on this forum, plus a plethora on the internet as well.

Just to confirm, if this part fails, the timing won't be advanced on cold starts and might cause problems starting and idling until the engine gets warm.

[shaunlfc1]

Well I would love to fix it myself, as I can see a fuel pump specialist charging the earth for the priviledge.

I work for a large prototype engine design, manufacture, test and developement company as a toolmaker/machinist, so I have access to alot of tooling and engine knowledge, so I think I am in a good position to learn and do it myself.

So please fire away with how to replace this part on the fuel pump.

I've tried searching the internet for info on this problem/failed component and have returned nothing so far, so please give me the links that would show this issue so I can do some background reading.

Many thanks,

Shaun

[MikeT]

That's the spirit! If you do a search for VE pump on here, using author Citrojim, MikeT, KennyW, to name a few, you should come up trumps.

But before you do, are sure a) It's the correct diagnosis (I have my doubts because you say it starts and runs fine), b) It's not a wiring or connector fault, rather than the solenoid itself?

[shaunlfc1]

Well it spent the afternoon in a private citroen specialist, who checked out everything and the last thing they did was connect it too the diagnostic machine which showed the error code. According to the mechanic the symptoms would tie up with this electronic gizmo in the pump that is showing the error.

I'll look at though posts now.

Cheers again,

Shaun

[shaunlfc1]

I've started reading this:

http://www.eastment.net/Boschpump1.htm

Could you narrow down for me the part I need to replace?

Will I need to do the full strip down, and can I do this job on the car?

Thanks....

[MikeT]

I'm still not convinced the diagnostic is correct but I'm a cynic and it's your call.

Ah, you've caught me - the link you've found is showing a pump without the cold start solenoid.

If you compare that picture with mine, paying attention to the bottom of the pump, about midway, you'll see a major difference.

Click to Enlarge


The extra part is the cold start advance solenoid - note it has an electrical connection on the rear of it (to the right) and a small bore pipe on the front.

It's removed by undoing those two torx bolts and can be done in situ. But please do read up exactly what to expect before you undo anything. For instance, the parts inside have a habit of escaping when you're not looking.

You could do worse than to start here (when you've finished reading Jim's website)

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=28590

[shaunlfc1]

Thats great thank you, I will definetly read up and gain all the info before I crack on!

The garage found the error code 144 via their SNAP ON gizmo, which is a faulty Electronic cold start solenoid.

But I've since spoken to a Diesel Pump specialist and they said that its so rare for those solenoids to fail its like to be the sensor on the injector or the crank sensor which also talks to it.

So which injector/cylinder will I find this sensor/wire and if I disconnect it should it shut down the cold start and run normal again?

Thanks all for your help!

Shaun

[MikeT]

Replied in other thread.

[shaunlfc1]

Evening all,

After spending some time on the phone to the diesel pump specialists and diesel experts at work, I finally got home from work and had a quick investigation and a play with the car.

I located the sensor on both no:3 injector and the crankshaft sensor and traced the wires until I came to connectors which I then did the following:

With the engine running I disconnected the Injector sensor from the pump by splitting it at the connector and the result was no change at all in the engine. I repeated this a couple of times but quickly connecting and disconnecting the connectors to see if I could sense any change in the engine note, which there was but you had to really really listen to it!

I was not expecting this at all as the pump specialist said that by removing the feed from the Injector sensor it would cause the cold start solenoid to go to maximum advance and the loud knocking would increase in frequency and be very noticeable, and to get the opposite effect to shut the solenoid closed so in theory to stop the horrible noise, would be too put a 12v feed directly onto the pins of the solenoid and this would close it and hopefully make the engine run smooth again providing the solenoid of course is not faulty and working fine!

So with no effect from disconnecting the injector sensor, I reconnected it and moved onto the crank sensor. Still with the engine running I disconnected this sensor and once again this made no differance in the way the engine sounded, but the K-light on the dash was now out. So with the crank sensor disconnected I gambled and re-disconnected the injector sensor and Viola the pump went to full advance and the existing horrible noise doubled in frequency and made even more noise. As to prove a point I again repeatedly connected and disconnected the injector sensor a few times and every time it disconnected the noise would increase tenfold and sound like it was at maximum advance.

From this I think the solenoid is working but is it working 100%?

Or is the injector sensor faulty and its only giving half a signal for it only to respond if the ECU/Pump is NOT getting a signal from the crank sensor? Because when the crank sensor is connected, disconnecting the injector sensor has no effect!?

Right then I hope that all makes sense, I feel I've taken half a step forward, but not sure what direction to take now?

Any ideas people?!

Thanks again for your help, be great so far!

Cheers,

Shaun

[falling-out-with-my-car]

Just to confirm, if this part fails, the timing won't be advanced on cold starts and might cause problems starting and idling until the engine gets warm.

Mike,

the sympyoms you describe here are similar to those experiences of Romie who has an xantia that will run at higher revs but cuts out at lower revs ie idle speed, I wonder if its the same thing???

regards Nigel.

[shaunlfc1]

The noise is constant at idle and at all rev ranges.

Only when you disconnect both Injector and crank sensor does the noise increase ten fold.

I now thing its the bottom end that has gone!

[MikeT]

Which type of timing solenoid does your pump have? This is getting confusing.

If it's on the side, as shown in the photo I posted, that's the cold-start advance solenoid.

If it's underneath, it's the full timing solenoid.

If I could see and hear the engine and see the live parameters on a Lexia, I could probably make a more accurate assessment but via forum posts, it's proving very difficult for me.

[shaunlfc1]

Its not the same as your photo, I think its underneath. Will take a picture and post.
Error144 says its injection begin and relates to cold start solenoid!

Thanks

[MikeT]

I'm sorry Shaun, but I can't work off snap-on diagnostics. The reported messages are both inaccurate (you don't have a cold start advance solenoid) and insufficient for me to take this further.

You really need a Lexia diagnostic session. Have you checked the Lexia map to see if there's one near you?