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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Scratch my last. Once I'd wedged the release catch with a short piece of rubber hose, that left me free to pull squarely with gentle force and with a little wiggle, she slid off somewhat easily. I was expecting to find two O rings but only one was fitted - has someone been here before?

Trying to fit a bypass hose will be the next challenge when I can find the right size - is it 3/4 inch? Measures about 22/23mm OD on the coupling.

After mopping out as much of the water from the footwell last night, I was surprised to see this much had escaped from just warming it up.

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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

I had a similar leak on my MK1 from the scuttle, easily remedied though which begs the question why it isn't refitted properly in the first place.

Anyway, coming ok so far, slowly and surely. Facia around radio/heater controls off but will leave radio connected as long as is possible for entertainment while tinkering. Steering wheel shroud off - again, evidence someone's been here before as one screw missing.

Passenger seat unbolted and shifted back revealing a pre-tensioner connector which I didn't expect to see as there's no passenger airbag. Then I remembered the airbag light hasn't been nagging me lately but I'll still replace the connector with a better one.

I wanted to get the carpet out before packing away and heading indoors for the evening but it looked pretty well tucked into the centre console and facia underside so left it be for now.
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Post by CitroJim »

Good work Mike :D

Yes, the bulbs are identical between MK1 and MK2.

The car will run with the dash all out but it is not recommended.... It pops the ABS ECU on diesels so don't go there.

You're lucky with the matrix connector. Other washer most likely inside the matrix.

A/C and Non-A/C matrixes are identical...
Jim

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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Thanks Jim, mine has no ABS but I wasn't thinking of driving it with no clocks, to be honest. In fact, unless someone else can fit a bypass hose on the matrix feeds, I won't be driving it again until fully repaired.

I was studying the BoL last night and was surprised at just how detailed it is on this subject. However, it says to remove the steering wheel, then remove the shroud yet I got mine off without removing the wheel. Is it not necessary on a MK2 or do I still need to remove the steering wheel?
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Post by Xaccers »

Mk2's don't need the steering wheel off to remove the shroud, but removing the wheel will help with removing the dash.
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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Thanks Xac but could it be left in place and worked around? I don't want to remove anything unnecessarily (and am even wondering if the missing o-ring is the actual cause of the leak! I doubt it, but it's possible!)

I've found another sticking point - the glovebox. I've removed the top four screws that were covered with rubber bumpers and the single screw in the lower right corner which allows the box to move freely at the top but doesn't want to come out and I can't see where it's being held. The BoL is no help here. It wrongly states the MK1 & MK2 methods are identical when they're clearly not.

Centre console, passenger seat and carpet are all now out (as is my back :roll: ) so I'm calling it a day today.
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Post by andmcit »

You need to peel the small section of carpet lining the lower edge of
the glovebox to find x3 more TORX cunningly hidden... :D

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Post by MikeT »

Hmm, I did and took a look around after removing that upper carpet, couldn't see those three torx you mention. Decided to pull the heater blower instead as I wanted to see if, in their wisdom, there was a chance the matrix could be got at without removing the dash - dream on :P

EDIT: Update. Found them. Well found four altogether. INSIDE the glovebox, under the felt trims.

Carpet's drying out nicely in this sun.
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Post by RichardW »

Mike,

You have read Jim's thread I take it....Heater matrix info link
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Post by MikeT »

Hi Richard, yes I've speed read it as I'm sure I'll need to reference it as I go. Seems I'm too stupid to even understand the written word and need lots of diagrams instead. :oops:
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Post by Toby_HDi »

Mike,

Would you like me to pop round tomorrow with some coolant and a new matrix (if GSF or ECP have one in stock)?

Can also give you a hand if you wish.
Toby


Previous:
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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

Hi Toby, yes please! Though there's been a revision on parts - it seems the o-rings for the elbow in the bay are dealer only. 6464 V1 2 of required.

If you could drop by here first and collect the cash, we can talk more then? Really appreciate it Toby.
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Post by Toby_HDi »

No worries,

Hopefully one of the local dealers will have a pair of those O-rings. Surprised they don't come with the matrix to be honest.

See you tomorrow.
Toby


Previous:
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MikeT
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Post by MikeT »

With the the matrix replaced, I thought it best to conclude this thread with my findings as it may help someone else in the future.

The following applies to my car, which is a MK2 Xantia.

I think someone else has stated this. The steering wheel does not need to come off. The column is best lowered for easier access but that's all.

The scuttle was the biggest (pleasant) surprise in that it can peeled away with no risk to the 'screen. There's a ridge on the scuttle underside that probably confuses the issue if people mistake this for the seal and try cutting into it. What we found worked well was to gently seperate the scuttle from the 'screen at the very corner where it becomes a slim point. Once you can get a small lever/wedge in there, the seal/bonding should start to tear away from itself. Once I could get my fingertips under the scuttle, the rest was plain sailing.

Jim was quite right, the dash bulbs are capless types, I just didn't want to pull that hard for fear of breaking the glass envelope and therefore assumed they wouldn't pull out but the parts shop assistant showed me a neat trick to remove them. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the bulb, changes the surface from slippery to grippy 8-)

As my eyesight is degrading, I got out my microscope to check which bulbs had failed or look burnt enough to be a concern and I'm glad I did! I've found two (so far) that have a broken filament that still makes contact - ie they illuminate despite being broken.

As for drying out the carpets, they don't. It appears the coolant chemicals leave a sticky but wet residue that will resist drying. I've got a towel I used to mop up the spill and despite being wrung out and left in the hot sun for at least three days, it's still very damp.
Last edited by MikeT on 23 Jul 2010, 09:47, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by addo »

You need to remove the carpets; I then use a "wool wash" type of weak detergent solution sprayed on then worked in by hand; hose generously and drip dry over the best "forms" you have available.
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