Consequences of improper height setting
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Thank you very much everyone - I think, from all your comments, the rear is too high, perhaps the front is ok.
Both front and rear systems looked very clean and free from grease, especially the tensioning springs and I've got no reason to believe any of it isn't working as intended. In fact, it was so clean, I was reluctant to mess it all up with grease. Maybe I should have left it because it looked so new.
When it came to adjusting the height, I bottled out as I got paranoid about weight shifting (toward me, despite it being on axle stands!) if I loosened the clamp, as well as possibly screwing up the height setting altogether, making it undriveable.
A neighbour says I might be able to make use of their works ramp lift if we can find a quiet period.
So how much clamp rotation equates to, say, 3inches of height? I'd imagine it would be fairly miniscule? More so, how is it done? Do I need to just loosen the clamp and I rotate it, or does the plastic clip have to be detached first? And lastly, which direction do I rotate them? I couldn't work it out lying on my back
Both front and rear systems looked very clean and free from grease, especially the tensioning springs and I've got no reason to believe any of it isn't working as intended. In fact, it was so clean, I was reluctant to mess it all up with grease. Maybe I should have left it because it looked so new.
When it came to adjusting the height, I bottled out as I got paranoid about weight shifting (toward me, despite it being on axle stands!) if I loosened the clamp, as well as possibly screwing up the height setting altogether, making it undriveable.
A neighbour says I might be able to make use of their works ramp lift if we can find a quiet period.
So how much clamp rotation equates to, say, 3inches of height? I'd imagine it would be fairly miniscule? More so, how is it done? Do I need to just loosen the clamp and I rotate it, or does the plastic clip have to be detached first? And lastly, which direction do I rotate them? I couldn't work it out lying on my back
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I could answer that question but I've never done it before!XantiaDaveEire wrote:I suppose the next question is how do i adjust the anti roll bar Kev ?
I think its a case of loosening a clamp and twisting it around the roll bar a fraction having worked out which way does which. Tightening it up again and testing it by going from both extremes in height to normal and checking it. As said before, if the car settles at different normal heights depending on the extreme of height, then that lost motion needs to be fixed first.
Kev
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Sounds like you have from that description Kevred_dwarfers wrote:I could answer that question but I've never done it before!XantiaDaveEire wrote:I suppose the next question is how do i adjust the anti roll bar Kev ?
Yes, that's it. Up on ramps. As you look at it on your back, rotate the clamp so the bolt is pushed toward the middle of the car to lower it. I find you need to undo the clamp bolt and lever (gently) the clamp extension connecting it to the dogbone to get movement. Lever and hold for at least 20s to see where the height ends up. Remember a small movement of the clamp makes a big difference and for heavens sake make sure the front is high enough off the ground in case you over-cook it and the car slams itself right down that it is not going to slam into YOU! The position you will be in does not afford the means for a quick exit.
Always remember the height corrector has deliberate hysteresis and changes made do not translate into an instant change of height.
Nip up the clamp bolt and do at least two bouts of Citarobics to check it levels out where you want it. Err on the side of a bit lower rather than a bit higher. Ride height makes an INCREDIBLE difference to ride.
Jim
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Rotate it very slowly though, a very small movement on the clamp can give a lot of movement on the suspension and it could well hit you on the head.
One way is to not completely loosen the clamp so its still gripping the anti roll bar, then clamp a pair of mole grips or even stilson round it, this will enable you to do it a little at a time.
When you think you have it correct, just bounce the suspension up and down a few times and make sure it settles where you want it. This operation needs to be done with the engine running of course.
Peter
One way is to not completely loosen the clamp so its still gripping the anti roll bar, then clamp a pair of mole grips or even stilson round it, this will enable you to do it a little at a time.
When you think you have it correct, just bounce the suspension up and down a few times and make sure it settles where you want it. This operation needs to be done with the engine running of course.
Peter
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It (or the 11mm clamp bolt) is visible when you look up into the elongated hole at the rear end of the height corrector cradle Dave. Access is not what I'd call good and sadly Peter, there is no room on a Xantia to clamp anything to it, much less a pair of Mole grips. If you could, it would make the whole job a lot easier and less fiddly... Sounds like an XM is much better for access.XantiaDaveEire wrote:Righto Jim..i dont suppose the clamp is easily recognisable ?
You need (ideally) a deep 11mm socket to reach the clamp bolt and it can be tight/corroded so take care with it.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Didn't know that Jim, yet another reason for having an XMCitroJim wrote:It (or the 11mm clamp bolt) is visible when you look up into the elongated hole at the rear end of the height corrector cradle Dave. Access is not what I'd call good and sadly Peter, there is no room on a Xantia to clamp anything to it, much less a pair of Mole grips. If you could, it would make the whole job a lot easier and less fiddly... Sounds like an XM is much better for access.XantiaDaveEire wrote:Righto Jim..i dont suppose the clamp is easily recognisable ?
You need (ideally) a deep 11mm socket to reach the clamp bolt and it can be tight/corroded so take care with it.