xantia rear calipers

rongee68 · Post by **rongee68** » 21 Jun 2010, 15:12

want to put new discs on rear of my r reg 2.1 xantia. when i undo the two bolts that hold the caliper, i only need to move caliper a little to take off old disc and put new one on, am i likely to encounter any problems when i bolt it back on. do i have to bleed it after? ect
many thanks ron

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 21 Jun 2010, 15:19

If you leave the feed pipe connected then no a bleed wont be needed...

Its recomended you do remove the feed pipe, as theres a bit of wriggleing and pulling to get the caliper out the way..

With the caliper off BE sure to remove any alloy corrosion between the caliper and arm were it sits...

Coat ti with grease on re assembly.. to help prevent further corrosion..

Paul

Post by **DHallworth** » 21 Jun 2010, 15:54

I need to do this on ours but I know the calipers are at a slightly strange angle on the HDi so I've been putting off doing it.

The caliper bolts seem ridiculously tight too which makes sense if the calipers aren't straight.

So it looks like I've got the fun job of drilling them out etc etc.

David.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 21 Jun 2010, 19:24

Not necessarily D, They may still undo, albeit slowly, but they should come out...

Pleanty of freeing agent...

Go easy..

Paul

oldfudger · Post by **oldfudger** » 04 Feb 2011, 19:17

I got a similar problem
Rear pistons wont come out on one wheel (freed other side off)
Not looking forward to taking calipers off

Is there a way around it, can i get disc off without disconnecting pipes to allow more rome to get in there?

If i have to remove calipers whats the procedure
what problems might i encounter?

Post by **CitroJim** » 04 Feb 2011, 19:55

Removing the hydraulic pipe to the caliper is no big deal at all.. be ready to replace the rubber seal though...

Even if you just loosen the 17mm caliper bolts to give sufficient just to get he discs free, do make sure the 8mm pad retaining bolt is in place and this will hold the two caliper halves together and save them coming apart, which they will do very easily. between the halves is a O ring to seal the fluid channel between the halves.

On the bolts themselves, as said, plenty of Plus Gas or similar (not WD40) and carefully wire-brush the bolt threads clean where they protrude through the back of the trailing arm.

After the releasing agent has had time to really soak, gently go about the bolts with a long breaker bar but with gentle, steady force only applied to it. don't snatch it, just apply steady pressure and let the bolt get used to the idea of undoing. Go easy. Try a little movement one way and then the other. Apply gentle pressure and in doing his you'll put a small twist in the bolt shaft. With patience and continued application of pressure, this twist will right itself and undo the bolt.

If nothing seems to happen, don't get angry and attack it, just keep calm and carry on. If it still is reluctant, apply some heat to the thread ends as originally, the bolts were loctited in and heat will help soften the loctite.

The problem is that the bolts are high-tensile and have limited elasticity and will snap if you're unlucky.

Go gently and chances are you'll be OK.

Good luck!

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 04 Feb 2011, 20:24

oldfudger wrote:I got a similar problem
Rear pistons wont come out on one wheel (freed other side off)
Not looking forward to taking calipers off

Is there a way around it, can i get disc off without disconnecting pipes to allow more rome to get in there?

If i have to remove calipers whats the procedure
what problems might i encounter?

UNFORTUNALLY disks will NOT come off with the calipers still attached.. also if the end of the brake feed pipe is a litle rusty, theres a chance the pipe MIGHT turn with the union, eventually breaking it off... I find these easyer if the caliper will come off first with the sucess of bolt removal then you can grip the union and twist the caliper to get the union out.

Dont be afriad to bend the hydraulic pipes a bit if they are in good order, they will take a bit.... but obviously NOT too much

Paul

VertVega · Post by **VertVega** » 04 Feb 2011, 21:44

rongee68 wrote:want to put new discs on rear of my r reg 2.1 Xantia. when i undo the two bolts that hold the caliper, i only need to move caliper a little to take off old disc and put new one on, am i likely to encounter any problems when i bolt it back on. do i have to bleed it after? ect
many thanks ron

You should see these pics in this thread ---> Replacing Xantia Mk2 Rear Wheel Bearings

Dommo · Post by **Dommo** » 09 Feb 2011, 17:29

My 2.1TD seems to be wearing the pads slightly unevenly, part of the pad has a lip which is on the inside of the disc inside the actual braking surface, if that makes sense.

Is this likely to be because of this alloy corrosion?

If so - what is the seal I need for the hydraulic pipe connection? Is it the same as an anti sink sphere? If not what are both their sizes, as I need some of each!

Cheers.

Post by **CitroJim** » 09 Feb 2011, 17:53

Hi Dom,

Yes, corrosion will more than likely be the cause...

You'll need a 3.5mm seal. Same style as the A/S seal but that one is a 4.5mm one and too big.

It's alsways a good idea to have a stock of both sizes in. Pleiaes will supply them economically.

There's also a 6.35mm seal but their use is confined to early Xantias on the FDV (Sinkers) and the steering pinion. I can't think of anywhere they're used on a late Xantia.

Dommo · Post by **Dommo** » 09 Feb 2011, 18:08

Thanks Jim

I'll give them a call tomorrow if I remember and order probably a few of each, depends on cost!

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 09 Feb 2011, 20:03

Penny pinching speaking, you DO NOT have to change the seal..

When you have removed the feed pipe, use a cross head screw driver to remove the seal in an unscrewing manner, then roll the seal in your fingers, cut off the "Strands" and re-fit it!!

Ive done this many a time, and 99.9% of the time, they DO re seal!!

If, Dom, you find the union will NOT undo from the calliper, you'll need to then remove the calliper bolts, and then grip the union, and twist the calliper instead... sometimes corrosion can rust the union to the calliper, or even worse, the union to the pipe, in which the feed pipe twists with the union..

Paul

Dommo · Post by **Dommo** » 09 Feb 2011, 23:49

citroenxm wrote:Penny pinching speaking, you DO NOT have to change the seal..

When you have removed the feed pipe, use a cross head screw driver to remove the seal in an unscrewing manner, then roll the seal in your fingers, cut off the "Strands" and re-fit it!!

Ive done this many a time, and 99.9% of the time, they DO re seal!!

If, Dom, you find the union will NOT undo from the calliper, you'll need to then remove the calliper bolts, and then grip the union, and twist the calliper instead... sometimes corrosion can rust the union to the calliper, or even worse, the union to the pipe, in which the feed pipe twists with the union..

Paul

It wasn't really a penny pinching thing, more a 'I can get them from GSF for x pence each so I'll go there instead if needs be'!

I would rather change them though if I can, I could do with an anti sink sphere seal anyway so if I can get them both ordered at the same time that would be handy.

My bleed nipples undid nicely earlier today with a dose of plus gas and the brake unions look to be in similar condition so I think plus gas will do the job nicely, but thanks for the advice as I may end up resorting to using it

Cheers, Dom.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 10 Feb 2011, 07:50

Excellent!

I wasn't adviseing you, was just putting it up for the sake of that Sunday afternoon job when theres no where open to get any seals....

Pleased it came apart for you easilly...

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 10 Feb 2011, 08:57

Dave wrote
"so I've been putting off doing it"

it pay's to sort this job sooner rather than later, as the longer its left the worse it will get/be,

and it just needs loads of PERCY WHAT SIT

regards malcolm

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