Fuel Pump not working - Xsara - ***UPDATE***
Moderator: RichardW
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Fuel Pump not working - Xsara - ***UPDATE***
I've got a 2001 Citroen Xsara 2.0 HDI. It's not starting - basically when the ignition is turned on the fuel pump does not start whirring - indicating that fuel is not making it to the injectors and hence it won't start - the engine is turning over though.
Initial investigation has shown there are no blown fuses and that NO POWER is getting to the fuel pump underneath the DS rear seat. There is a clicking sound behind dashboard when the ignition is turned on. This to me indicates that a relay is faulty.
Any ideas as to whether this is something I can fix myself or leave into a garage? I've got no fault codes so I'm a bit in the dark. I've a feeling that the clicking noise is a relay for switching the fuel pump on - but I'm not sure.
I did notice that the clicking behind the dash lasts for roughly the same period of time as the pump pressurisation. The speedo needle can also be seen to 'vibrate' whilst this is happening.
I've got quite a few tools at home and access to ramps and a few knowledgable people - but I really don't want to be (-expletive removed-) about if it is an expert only job.
Anyone know what might the fault be or what the clicking sound behind that dash might be upon turning on the ignition? I've done a quick trawl of Google but I can't find anything relating to this issue.
The fuel cut off switch does not seem to have been activated as the hazard lights were not blinking. I've tried resetting it anyway but to no avail.
Thanks in advance
Initial investigation has shown there are no blown fuses and that NO POWER is getting to the fuel pump underneath the DS rear seat. There is a clicking sound behind dashboard when the ignition is turned on. This to me indicates that a relay is faulty.
Any ideas as to whether this is something I can fix myself or leave into a garage? I've got no fault codes so I'm a bit in the dark. I've a feeling that the clicking noise is a relay for switching the fuel pump on - but I'm not sure.
I did notice that the clicking behind the dash lasts for roughly the same period of time as the pump pressurisation. The speedo needle can also be seen to 'vibrate' whilst this is happening.
I've got quite a few tools at home and access to ramps and a few knowledgable people - but I really don't want to be (-expletive removed-) about if it is an expert only job.
Anyone know what might the fault be or what the clicking sound behind that dash might be upon turning on the ignition? I've done a quick trawl of Google but I can't find anything relating to this issue.
The fuel cut off switch does not seem to have been activated as the hazard lights were not blinking. I've tried resetting it anyway but to no avail.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Father Ted on 19 Jul 2010, 10:15, edited 1 time in total.
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- Paul-R
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2001 2.0 HDi 90 Xsara Estate (Gone) - x 1383
I had this problem 4 or 5 years ago and despite repeated cleaning of every connector still couldn't get a reliable fuel delivery.
In the end I bypassed the problem by rewiring the pump through a fused relay from an ignition fed source and battery live feed. I put the relay very close the fuse box so I could revert back if need . IT's still that way all these years later!
Be aware that if you do go down this route that the safety mechanism that cuts out the fuel pump supply after about 10 seconds if the engine isn't started won't be there and you MUST remember not to leave the ignition key in the "On" position.
In the end I bypassed the problem by rewiring the pump through a fused relay from an ignition fed source and battery live feed. I put the relay very close the fuse box so I could revert back if need . IT's still that way all these years later!
Be aware that if you do go down this route that the safety mechanism that cuts out the fuel pump supply after about 10 seconds if the engine isn't started won't be there and you MUST remember not to leave the ignition key in the "On" position.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
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I’ve had this looked at now and I’ve been told it needs a new ECU due to water ingress. I’ve been told the new ECU is roughly £700. To replace with a second hand ECU means that I need to get one paired with ignition barrel, door barrels, keys and a dash.
This would be almost as costly as a new ECU replacement with no gaurantee of how long it will last or whether it will work.
What is in the dash that requires changing when replacing an ECU? I take it there is an immobliser chip in the key fob which operates something in the dash?
This would be almost as costly as a new ECU replacement with no gaurantee of how long it will last or whether it will work.
What is in the dash that requires changing when replacing an ECU? I take it there is an immobliser chip in the key fob which operates something in the dash?
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
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Citroën Berlingo
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Taunton, maybe?
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... ment_units
I've not heard much complaint about them - that's not praise, but a noted absence of discontented murmurs...
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?c ... ment_units
I've not heard much complaint about them - that's not praise, but a noted absence of discontented murmurs...
- Paul-R
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2013 2.0 HDi 163 C5 Exclusive Tourer
2003 2.0 HDi 110 C5 Exclusive Estate (Gone)
2001 2.0 HDi 90 Xsara Estate (Gone) - x 1383
Before you spend ANY money on an ECU try a simple test.
Run a wire from the live of the battery to the fuel pump and see whether it starts working. Then, start the engine and see if you can drive around normally.
If it does then you can think of doing the mod that I did some 80,000 miles ago.
Run a wire from the live of the battery to the fuel pump and see whether it starts working. Then, start the engine and see if you can drive around normally.
If it does then you can think of doing the mod that I did some 80,000 miles ago.
As I get older I think a lot about the hereafter - I go into a room and then wonder what I'm here after.
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
Inside every old person is a young person wondering what the hell happened.
"Trying is the first step towards failure" ~ Homer J Simpson
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- Posts: 22
- Joined: 19 Jun 2010, 18:45
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
- Posts: 7098
- Joined: 19 Aug 2008, 12:38
- Location: NEW South Wales, Australia. I'll show you "Far, far away" ;-)
- My Cars: Peugeot 605
Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
I believe the ECU is coded to the body mocule; to make a swap work you need the body computer, the ECU and the lock transponder (wrapped around the ignition switch) plus the keyset.
Should your donor kit have a higher mileage, this will be permanently locked into the dash display.
If an automagic, you'll also need the gearbox ECU.
Should your donor kit have a higher mileage, this will be permanently locked into the dash display.
If an automagic, you'll also need the gearbox ECU.