Xantia 1996 2.0 petrol rear suspension query

rockitmurray · Post by **rockitmurray** » 06 Jun 2010, 12:44

Suspension goes up and down no problem

When lever in 'normal' position the rear either sits on the floor or slightly higher than it normally would.

I noticed that the short plastic rod at the rear had become detached at one end. I have pushed it back on but it doesn't stay on for long. When its attached the suspension sits slightly higher than normal, when its detached the car sits down low at the back and is hard.

Do I simply need a new rod, does this little piece of plastic actually do much???

Its a great car, bought for pennies and proving to mega reliable, please advise as garage immediately siad its the spheres but the ride is not harsh even when suspension sits slightly high at rear.

One other thing, the guage to check hydraulic fluid level is off the scale although the bottle never looks that full, could this just be stuck or could there be some pressure issues going on!!!?

Thanks in advance for any help given

Post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 13:06

This is a very common problem and it's normally caused by the height corrector mechanism shown in the diagram below becoming seized or partially so. The white "dogbone" link couples the height corrector mechanism to the anti-roll bar and is VITAL. Normally, when it pops off because the mechanism is stiff, it develops hairline cracks in the ballcups and then it'll never stay on.

It's best to replace it and the only source is from a Citroen Dealer; they are not expensive.

The height corrector mechanism will need to be freed off. Douse it is WD-40 as a start and then "work" it with the dogbone off and the hydraulic valve moved out of the way (loosen off the two 11mm studs securing it) until it is all moving very freely. Then grease well with thin spray grease.

This work involves going under the car. NEVER VENTURE UNDER A HYDRAULIC CITROEN UNLESS IT IS SECURELY SUPPORTED ON RAMPS OR AXLE STANDS. ESPECIALLY WHEN WORKING ON SUSPENSION COMPONENTS, THEY CAN COLLAPSE SUDDENLY AND KILL BY CRUSHING. TAKE CARE.

Occasionally, a mechanism becomes so badly seized that replacement is the only answer. It is possible to refurbish them but this involves much engineering work.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 06 Jun 2010, 14:49

hi and welcome

as Jim says for the hight's,

the tank fluid level indicator you will find it has to much citro blood (LHM) in the tank, because what ever other's have said in the past it is virtualy impossible for the float the become stuck,

you can only check the fluid level with the car on level ground and fully up on its highest setting, the yellow disc which some call orange should be between the two red bands, if the tank has to much fluid in the only problem this can cause is fluid seeping out from the top of the tank,

the tank is not presureised at all,

regards malcolm

rockitmurray · Post by **rockitmurray** » 06 Jun 2010, 16:49

Many thanks for your prompt response.

Can I just confirm, the plastic dog bone does it just pull off the side that is attached?

Also, are the two 11mm studs obvious to see once I'm under the car??

And, final question, after doing 18000 miles in 10 months and doing nothing other than a service on this great car, it failed its MOT on one front ball joint needing replaced, presumably this is an easy job??

Again, many thanks for both responses

Post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 17:11

The dogbone just pops off the ball. If it is still attached to the anti roll bar extension, it is best to counterhold it as it can snap.

You'll find the dogbone quite tight and it will need to be sort of rolled off the ball. When putting a new one on, just very lightly grease it, not too much or a hydraulic lock will form and prevent it going on at all. A light smear is fine.

If by balljoint you mean the suspension lower swivel joint (i.e. wishbone to hub) then this is a very devil of a job. The joint is screwed into the bottom of the hub with a torque of 250 nm, loctited and then peened. There is a special tool for the job but even then, it is often necessary to remove the hub complete and attack it (often with heat) in a big vice.

The track rod ends can be just as difficult as moisture runs up their threads and makes them very tight.

There are also inner balljoints on the steering rack that can fail. These too are a right ballache

rockitmurray · Post by **rockitmurray** » 06 Jun 2010, 17:19

MOT garage said they could do balljoint in under an hour while I wait so I think I'll just let them!!!!!

Thanks for your help

Post by **CitroJim** » 06 Jun 2010, 17:36

rockitmurray wrote: Also, are the two 11mm studs obvious to see once I'm under the car??

Yes, very. Highlighted in this picture:

Don't be confused by the multitude of spheres as this picture shows an Activa rear end. The Height Corrector is the same.

I have to say that if the MOT garage can do it in under an hour then let them!!! I guess they know what they're letting themselves in for...