Thanks for the info Jim. I'll check the pulleys as you describe.
What do you mean when you say the belt installation must always be "started" between cam and pump sprockets? I started my belt installation at the crankshaft, then up to the pump sprocket, then to the cam sprocket. Are you saying it should start at the cam and go clockwise to the pump, then to the crankshaft?
Paul
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yes exactly that, i think it dose say this in the hayn e ass BOL,
this is the other rule of thumb to install the belt clockwise startting at the cam,
the idea is ment to bring all/most of the slack to the adjusting tensioner,
as Jim say's use a length of copper knickle brake pipe for locking the crank, my reason is if i forget to remove it before cranking the the engine, i can still yank out the bent over locking pin,
a trick i learned whilst timing dersh's,
regards malcolm
this is the other rule of thumb to install the belt clockwise startting at the cam,
the idea is ment to bring all/most of the slack to the adjusting tensioner,
as Jim say's use a length of copper knickle brake pipe for locking the crank, my reason is if i forget to remove it before cranking the the engine, i can still yank out the bent over locking pin,
a trick i learned whilst timing dersh's,
regards malcolm
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That's how I've always done them Paul, finishing at the waterpump. Cam, pump, crank, waterpump, tensioner... This way you finish on a sprocket (waterpump) that's always free to move a few degrees. Ensure the runs between cam, pump and crank are pulled tight, otherwise you can end up a tooth out. This is why it's so important to spin over by hand a couple of revolutions and recheck timing fully.the_weaver wrote:Are you saying it should start at the cam and go clockwise to the pump, then to the crankshaft?
I do the same on 8V petrols. May not be officially correct but it works for me.
Make sure always the tensioner is fully retracted. It's easy not to do so and then find there's still a 1/4" to go. The belt, in my experience, will only fit with ease when the tensioner is fully retracted.
Jim
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I guess everybody develops their own way of doing jobs. Personally I always start at the crank pulley and go anti-clockwise round. To keep the belt's teeth in place on the bottom pulley, I hold it with a small soft faced cramp.CitroJim wrote:
The belt installation must always be "started" between cam and pump sprockets. .
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the reason i belive it is correct to fit in a clockwise direction startting at the cam, is you need all the slacl to end up at the tensioner, also it is the way i was always shown at garage's i have worked at' this includes a citroen service agents,
also if and were needed (usualy the cam sprocket) i use a clamp like the type used by market traders to hold the tarp's the there stands, and they have plastic covers on thee jaw's,
regards malcolm
also if and were needed (usualy the cam sprocket) i use a clamp like the type used by market traders to hold the tarp's the there stands, and they have plastic covers on thee jaw's,
regards malcolm
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Just been looking at my Autodata CD and the install instructions vary from engine to engine. For instance on the 2ltr HDI it does say start at the cam pulley and fit clockwise. On the earlier XUDs it says start at the crank and go anticlockwise. Also on my Saxo it starts at the crank and goes anticlockwise.citronut wrote:th i belive it is correct to fit in a clockwise direction startting at the cam,
Any ideas why it should vary?
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