Head Gasket Fluid

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 15 May 2010, 21:59

I had a go at checking the cambelt timing today. I didn't get very far as I couldn't find the tdc hole in the flywheel. After looking for about an hour I think I can see it from below in between the starter and the engine.

The problem I've got now is how to find an approximate position for tdc using the crankshaft pully. I can't turn the pulley and get the drill in the hole at the same time so I'm going to get the approximate position on the pulley first. The Haynes manual doesn't mention anything about the markings on the pulley. I thought I could see an arrow on the pulley but it's so faint that I'm not sure if it's there or not. If there is an arrow, is it supposed to point upwards for tdc? Is there a matching arrow on the engine block that you have to line up? I can see four (I think) holes marked in the rim of the crankshaft pulley. I expect these are timing marks. What do the holes mean? Where do I use as a reference to line the holes up against?

Paul

Deanxm · Post by **Deanxm** » 16 May 2010, 00:02

Hi Paul

what car/engine have you got?

D

evilally · Post by **evilally** » 16 May 2010, 00:46

Ideally you need to jack the car up, put it in 5th gear, and have an assistant turn the road wheel to turn the engine over. Insert the bolt into the timing hole while the engine is being turned over. When the timing hole in the flywheel comes round, you will feel it locate and lock the engine. Then you can check if the timing holes on the camshaft and fuel pump pullies align.

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 16 May 2010, 02:18

The car is a Citroen ZX 1.9D 1993, non turbo XUD engine.

I was thinking of using the road wheel to turn the engine over. I might try that as it should be easier than turning the crankshaft pulley bolt. I'd still like to know what the markings on the crankshaft pulley are though, so I can get it close first. The 8mm hole in the engine is in the worst possible place.

Paul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 17 May 2010, 01:22

I managed to find tdc using a piece of coat hanger wire but I couldn't get an 8mm drill to go into the hole. I took the starter motor off to see why the drill wouldn't go in. It turns out that the drill has to go in dead straight but it's fouling on something on the side of the engine block. I think it's a pipe below the oil filler cap. A standard 8mm drill is too long. I need a shorter piece of 8mm diameter rod. Or a piece of an old drill.

I think I found out how my clutch mysteriously adjusted itself. It's because the uppermost bolt on the starter motor can contact the clutch arm as it's coming out. If you're not careful you can bend something. The way to do it is to take the bolt out a bit and then pull the starter outwards on the other side, then you can undo the bolt a bit more.

Paul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 18 May 2010, 01:20

I checked the cambelt timing today with the 8mm rod locked in the flywheel.

The timing of the camshaft sprocket looks correct (bolt fits in at approx 3 o'clock position (slightly more than the 3 position on a clock face).

The timing of the diesel pump sprocket looks wrong. I can't get the bolts in and I can see in an inspection mirror that the holes don't line up. It might be out more than one tooth as I'm not sure I can see one of the threaded holes at all looking though one of the sprocket holes. The holes in the diesel pump sprocket seem to be at 12 o'clock and 4 o'clock. I think they should be at 2 o'clock and 5 o'clock but the engine in the ZX is tilted backwards so I'm not sure about that. The diesel pump sprocket needs to be rotated clockwise a bit when viewed from the offside wing looking towards the sprockets.

I think I'll have a go at rotating the sprocket. This will mean releasing the tension on the belt which I've never done before. Any tips on this would be useful. How heavy is the spring on the tensioner? What's the best way to release it and pull it back? Do I need a lever or can it be done by hand? Is it possible to access the tensioner without removing the engine mounting? The reason I'm asking is because I haven't got a big block of wood to put under the sump when I jack it up. I've got some 4 inch square fence posts and some lengths of 2.5 by 3.5 inch wood. How big a piece do I actually need? Is there a technique to jacking under a sump which is angled. I get the feeling the engine might slip off the jack.

The ZX tensioner is self-tensioning so I should be able to rely on that to get the right tension. How do I double check the tension on the ZX? I heard somewhere that "it should be possible to turn the belt through 90 degrees on it's longest run". Well on the ZX there are no long runs of belt really. Only lots of short ones. Is it just a case of relying on the auto-tensioner?

Is there any valid reason that the diesel pump sprocket should be out by a few teeth? I'm assuming this is a mistake by the garage that needs to be rectified ASAP rather than a valid method of adjusting the engine. I think the garage may have adjusted the diesel pump to improve the car's performance based on this bad sprocket position.

Paul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 18 May 2010, 23:53

I've released the tension on the belt, slid the belt off the camshaft sprocket and the diesel pump sprocket, turned the diesel pump sprocket clockwise a bit and locked it with the bolts. I'm now trying to get the belt back on the top two sprockets. It went dark so I had to give up until tomorrow.

Paul