Where is the fuel filter on Xantia 1.9 TD?

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Napoleon
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Post by Napoleon »

ok Jim, thanks. I remember seeing that larger grommet earlier. I'm determined to see what effect, if any, my relatively short time running on svo might have had.

When I was filtering wvo for my lister set up a year ago, I never put any in the Xantia, but now I have got some serious amount of vegoil in her, I think it will be prudent to have a look now. Car has run on 50/50 svo and derv for various periods up to perhaps six months ago.

As a sideline, I have been to Brecon and back on just svo and the car's a dream! At 85ppl!

Yippeeeeee!
Tim
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Post by Napoleon »

Jim, there's a plug with wires on it, I presume it makes sense to remove that first?

Also, what about the feed and return pipes on the top - should I unclip them first or is there enough slack for the top to turn?
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Post by CitroJim »

The connector is for the fuel gauge Tim. Yes, disconnect.

You can loosen the ring without disconnecting anything but you'll need to disconnect the pipes (mark them so they go back on the right stubs) before the assembly will lift out.

It will be then that you wish you had a MK2. On a MK1 the pipes have metal spring clips (reusable with care) whereas the MK2 has push-on quick-disconnect connectors that make the job really easy.

Go easy on the ring. It will be very tight and remember it is made of plastic and will suffer damage if hit over-enthusiastically.
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Post by Napoleon »

Thanks for the warning on the plastic, Jim.

It's taking me forever to get around to do this job, innit?!

Only as it's not pressing, it's just that I need to know the ins and outs of it in case I'm caught on the hop by it.

Cheers.
Tim
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1996 N679 Xantia TD VSX estate - sold August 2012
1995 M289 Xantia TD SX hatch - sold March 2012

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Post by Dommo »

Potential daft question coming up. Does the 306 have this gauze filter in the tank, and if so, is it cleaned in the same manner?

I've been running on 1/3 diesel 2/3s filtered WVO for a good 12 months and although it still runs perfectly well, at full throttle + higher RPM's it seems to struggle to get the fuel in, so I'm wondering if this is the culprit.

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Post by MikeT »

Dommo wrote:Potential daft question coming up. Does the 306 have this gauze filter in the tank, and if so, is it cleaned in the same manner?
Oh yes! Get to it Dommo and see the amazing world of living fossil fuel bacteria in your tank.
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Post by Dommo »

Wonderful.. I'll get cracking then, I have this afternoon off!

Cheers.
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Post by Dommo »

Well, sort of unfortunatly, my mesh thing is nice and clean. And the layout is different in the 306 as it happens, its not a gauze, more like a mesh. Even easier to clean out than the gauze!
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Post by jgra1 »

even with mine looking like it did, earlier in the post, it made no obvious difference to the car's running.. :evil:

the front filter, however, does :twisted: it forced me to drive at 60mph for 200 miles last weekend, the car wouldn't go any faster :D after a front filter change all was well.. (see my blog i think)

Later TD's get the EM light, who's main purpose is a 'filter dirty get off the highway' light for us that use WVO :twisted:

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Post by Dommo »

What exactly triggers the engine management light then, water in the fuel filter housing? Or a reduction in fuel pressure or something? I doubt it's that complicated though to be honest..
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Post by jgra1 »

you got it Dommo, fuel pressure reduction, (I think) causes the injector not to open, resulting in the 'lift needle sensor' not lifting andf the light coming on..
I was a bit tongue in cheek, but on mine the only time I have seen the light, :twisted: was due to fuel filter blocking

John
Last edited by jgra1 on 12 May 2010, 16:17, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by CitroJim »

It's the lowered fuel pressure as a result of a plugging filter Dom.

If you look at it on a Lexia, it reports "Timing Motion Fault" because there is insufficient pressure available to properly operate the timing device in the pump.
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Post by bonnyman750 »

Hi Tim, here's a transscript of an old posting of mine on the same subject...

To get the black ring off mine I used the time old method of using a broad flat bladed screwdriver and a hammer. Once the ring starts to move, apply pressure downwards on the sender unit as it is under spring pressure and it will make the ring unscrew easier.
Before unscrewing the ring undo the two clips on the fuel pipes, ease the pipes off the sender unit carefully as the white plastic they are made out of tends to grow brittle as it ages! I find that putting a flat bladed screwdriver in between the white inlet/outlet shoulder and the end of the pipe and pushing the pipe off the easier and better way. Put some paper tissue down to soak up any fuel spillage.
Once the pipes are off, take the clips off the pipes and store them somewhere safe as you can guarantee they will fall off and end up somewhere on top of the tank where you just can't get to them! I put mine on the nearest seat fixing stud welded to the floor. Then tuck the pipes out of the way.
Unclip the electrical connector block and stow out of harms way then undo the ring. To get the ring out of the aperture, press the sender unit down and ease the ring out. Have a bowl ready and ease the sender unit out and drop into the bowl. Tip it upside down to inspect the filter.
I cleaned mine out in a parts washer so that I could get all the small rubbish out from behind the filter and flush it out of the feed pipe at the top of the sender unit.
While it is out check the circuit board that sends the empty/full message to the fuel gauge. Any damage may cause false readings on the gauge in which case a replacement unit may be the way to go.
Before replacing the unit back in the tank, check down the hole in the tank for any debris that may be lurking in there. My filter was completely clogged in jelly like stuff and there were more large pieces of it inside the tank, which I had to remove with long nosed pliers as I had just refilled the tank before reading the original thread.
When looking into the tank take note of the white plastic peg sticking out (on the right hand side of the aperture looking towards the front of the car) as this locates in a space in the side of the sender unit main body. To make the locating of the unit easier, turn the unit so that the pipe outlets are pointing towards the pillar between the right hand doors (B pillar) and the peg/space location will be easily seen. Locate the sender in the hole and push down against the spring pressure. Fit the ring and screw it down as far as you can just by hand first. Then tap the ring round until the web on the ring with the arrow on it lines up with the arrow moulded into the top of the sender unit and no further! Fit the pipes, clips, electrical block connector and large rubber grommet into the floor. Start the car to reprime the system...job done!

Just for further info, I found it easier to take the seat cushion(s) out...depending on what level of trim you have, as they tend to keep falling down and it also makes it easier to keep the carpet up and out of the way. Also make sure that the large floor grommet is put back properly as it will let water in which will sit undetected under the seat carpet...

HTH

Glyn
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Post by Napoleon »

Ok, I finally got around to this job.

I took the seat out, as well worth it.

Not a lot on it really, just a fragment of crud. More crud at the bottom of the tank, but couldn't get to it, so left it there. Looks like dead flies etc.

I also changed the fuel filter.

Getting the ring off was a pain, as the flat bladed driver I used did chop off some of the gnarled bits on the ring that are supposed to give some grip, but I was warned so it's my fault for not using a soft drift (haven't got one anyway).

Thanks for the help guys.
Tim
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1996 N679 Xantia TD VSX estate - sold August 2012
1995 M289 Xantia TD SX hatch - sold March 2012

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