Xantia TD: expected life of clutch
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia TD: expected life of clutch
How long should a clutch last? Talking here of gentle usage, rather than massive clutch slip when off from the lights, or towing. Pose this question following broken cable clip earlier today.
Car's on it's second clutch. First one (Valeo) lasted 79k and I changed it after 7 yrs because it was heavy, though I found minimal wear of the clutch plate.
Second clutch (also Valeo) is still in car, having done 77k in 7-8 yrs, but the clutch is what I would describe as heavy, and may be the reason the clip failed.
Does the clutch become heavier with use, or with age. If it's to do with the operating lever fulcrum moving with wear, then presumably if one doesn't ride the clutch or abuse it, then one should get a good life from it. In the past, both my BX DTR Turbo, and Renault 5 were on their original clutches when sold at > 200k, so I reckon I'm not heavy footed.
I have found what I'd describe as considerable wear in the top nylon bellhousing bush which locates the actuating arm. This bush is original, because when I replaced the original clutch, I wasn't aware that these bushes should be renewed - I do now, thanks to this forum. So I shall replace the top bush pronto, but will this lighten the clutch pedal? I tried Vince's VSX clutch pedal last autumn, and it was magical! Light as a feather!
Car's on it's second clutch. First one (Valeo) lasted 79k and I changed it after 7 yrs because it was heavy, though I found minimal wear of the clutch plate.
Second clutch (also Valeo) is still in car, having done 77k in 7-8 yrs, but the clutch is what I would describe as heavy, and may be the reason the clip failed.
Does the clutch become heavier with use, or with age. If it's to do with the operating lever fulcrum moving with wear, then presumably if one doesn't ride the clutch or abuse it, then one should get a good life from it. In the past, both my BX DTR Turbo, and Renault 5 were on their original clutches when sold at > 200k, so I reckon I'm not heavy footed.
I have found what I'd describe as considerable wear in the top nylon bellhousing bush which locates the actuating arm. This bush is original, because when I replaced the original clutch, I wasn't aware that these bushes should be renewed - I do now, thanks to this forum. So I shall replace the top bush pronto, but will this lighten the clutch pedal? I tried Vince's VSX clutch pedal last autumn, and it was magical! Light as a feather!
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
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Although not exactly an answer, I tend to change these plastic bush's if possible
I also take the shaft out and ensure its not rusty (emery cloth to clean it where it sits in the bush's)
A (small!) amount of grease here is good.
I've changed the 'trumpet' on (the bolted on part) if its not brilliant.
They are relatively heavy clutches though anyway on any XUD to be honest, hence the substantial cable fitted.
Oh, my original clutch (as far as I am aware as I know the previous owner) lasted about 140K on my 205TD
I also take the shaft out and ensure its not rusty (emery cloth to clean it where it sits in the bush's)
A (small!) amount of grease here is good.
I've changed the 'trumpet' on (the bolted on part) if its not brilliant.
They are relatively heavy clutches though anyway on any XUD to be honest, hence the substantial cable fitted.
Oh, my original clutch (as far as I am aware as I know the previous owner) lasted about 140K on my 205TD
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
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Thanks for your comments, guys.
I had assumed that it was the clutch itself that was the reason for a heavy clutch pedal. However, today, whilst replacing the broken metal clutch cable clip and the white plastic clip it slots in to, I also fitted a new clutch cable, and pedal operation has been transformed - not maybe feather light, but no problem now, encouraging me to keep the car a bit longer.
Comparing the 2 cables, laid out straight on the ground, the new one had the noticeably freer inner cable, but having said that, the old one wasn't at all tight or lethargic. Surprised new cable made such a difference when fitted
I had assumed that it was the clutch itself that was the reason for a heavy clutch pedal. However, today, whilst replacing the broken metal clutch cable clip and the white plastic clip it slots in to, I also fitted a new clutch cable, and pedal operation has been transformed - not maybe feather light, but no problem now, encouraging me to keep the car a bit longer.
Comparing the 2 cables, laid out straight on the ground, the new one had the noticeably freer inner cable, but having said that, the old one wasn't at all tight or lethargic. Surprised new cable made such a difference when fitted
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
Couldnt advise of the cost, I think £300 is a reasonable figure at an Independent Garage (someone will know more accurately than me).
I know its not a massive cost, especially if you only paid £400 for the car, that is assuming everything else with the car is tip top.
Havent had Tip Top for ages, saying that I havent had a dessert for ages.
I know its not a massive cost, especially if you only paid £400 for the car, that is assuming everything else with the car is tip top.
Havent had Tip Top for ages, saying that I havent had a dessert for ages.
Volkswagen Golf 59' 1.6TD S
Hi Colin,
Sorry for delay in replying - family here this weekend.
Have removed the plastic cover which carries cables, LHM pipes etc over the top of the bell-housing, and today tried to get the pin out, which fixes the release lever on to the (vertical) release fork shaft, but the pin's being rather stubborn. Intend having another go tomorrow, but there's not much pin to get hold of, and there's not much room to drive the pin out from the other side. There seems to be a little movement between the release lever and the release fork shaft so they should part company when the pin does decide to play and come out.
Having got the new bush, wanted to fit it and get the clutch operating mechanism back to as it should be, and also curious as to whether the bush gives any further improvement in clutch operation. However, I'm now half expecting that I may have to leave the bush until the whole clutch/gearbox is removed at some future date (hopefully never!), at which point I assume the fork shaft is then free to rotate further, improving access to allow one to drive the pin out "from the back".
Although it's fiddly getting the plastic cover off, it does come off in the end, with patience and PERCY WOTSIT, and so far, the stumbling block's the tight pin, although a loose pin would bring it's own problems.
I'll let you know how things progress
Edit: Previous edit deleted! On my car, the hole for pin does go right through the fork shaft, and there is a corresponding "hole" in the lever arm - hope this makes sense!
Sorry for delay in replying - family here this weekend.
Have removed the plastic cover which carries cables, LHM pipes etc over the top of the bell-housing, and today tried to get the pin out, which fixes the release lever on to the (vertical) release fork shaft, but the pin's being rather stubborn. Intend having another go tomorrow, but there's not much pin to get hold of, and there's not much room to drive the pin out from the other side. There seems to be a little movement between the release lever and the release fork shaft so they should part company when the pin does decide to play and come out.
Having got the new bush, wanted to fit it and get the clutch operating mechanism back to as it should be, and also curious as to whether the bush gives any further improvement in clutch operation. However, I'm now half expecting that I may have to leave the bush until the whole clutch/gearbox is removed at some future date (hopefully never!), at which point I assume the fork shaft is then free to rotate further, improving access to allow one to drive the pin out "from the back".
Although it's fiddly getting the plastic cover off, it does come off in the end, with patience and PERCY WOTSIT, and so far, the stumbling block's the tight pin, although a loose pin would bring it's own problems.
I'll let you know how things progress
Edit: Previous edit deleted! On my car, the hole for pin does go right through the fork shaft, and there is a corresponding "hole" in the lever arm - hope this makes sense!
Last edited by Xantidote on 26 Apr 2010, 11:08, edited 2 times in total.
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )