How do you fit a tight cambelt?

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handyman
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How do you fit a tight cambelt?

Post by handyman »

The saga goes on!

All the engine is back together baring the new Dayco cambelt. I've pushed it, I've pulled it, I've tried every combination of slackening off cam sprockets, shoved the tensioner into the middle of next week, but the belt still refuses to slid over the waterpump pulley. I've even tried fitting the belt on the camsprockets last, but it seems like the belt is too small.

I've counted the number of teeth, checked the references for the model and year. Any suggestions?

Citronut did admit the belts can be tight, but I do not remember them being this bad on 2.0L twin cam engines. He suggested cutting the belt and gluing and stapling after, but I am not sure that's the done thing.

Are other makes of belt any easier?

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Post by Featch »

I don't remember what make of belt I used on my XM but I do remember I was convinced it was too short. In the end I gently levered it over the water pump pulley using an old bank card... worked a treat.

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Post by Deanxm »

if the tensioner is a shoulderless type you can put the belt on over the main timing pulleys then slide the tensioner in afterwards, that way means the belt doesnt have to be pulled over a sproket which requires more length, if that wont work you are going to need a much bigger hammer :lol:

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Post by DickieG »

Have you loosened the bolts holding the camshaft sprockets? The ones within the sprockets with a slot behind them.
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Post by handyman »

Hi Dean, that was going to be my next plan of attack, as the tensioner seems to be the only part that can be retro-fitted once the cambelt was in place. ***kin pig of a job!

Dickie, if it could be slackened off, I've done it, but thanks for the suggestions.

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Post by spider »

I tend to (regardless of engine type) is half fit it (so its halfway on the sprockets if that) then once it is on everything push it on by hand.

You need to double check everything is still where it should be, but this has helped me a few times.
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Post by dnsey »

As Dickie G says, the camshaft adjustment bolts need to be slackened, so that the sprocket teeth can be aligned with the belt teeth.
There's an official way of doing this - IIRC, you leave the bolts just slack, turn the sprocket fully clockwise, then back off anticlockwise. The belt should slip on before the sprocket is fully anticlock. Once the belt's fitted, you're supposed to turn the engine over a few revolutions, then slacken and reset the sprockets as part of the tensioning procedure.
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Post by handyman »

The problem is not about aligning the belt with the teeth on the sprockets, that is easy and I am aware of allowing movement on the camwheels to allow alignment and tensioning.

The problem is that the belt is so tight on dimensions that it has to be slid onto all the cogged wheels almost at the same time. As it is so tight, it cannot deform sufficiently to push over the cogged wheels without serious assistance.

Dean's suggestion about the tensioner looks to be the way forward.

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Post by citronut »

Richard i think someone is trying to tell you something (not to go away for the weekend ????????????????)

regards malcolm
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Post by handyman »

Yes I know, Malcolm, SWMBO has said it is too late now to venture out so we are staying put for the weekend.

I have spoken to another mek-a-nik this morning who confirmed that these belts are the very devil to refit and that he does not touch Citroens anymore because of it.

He did recommend trying to fit the belt and then refit the idler, rather than the tensioner, because it is easier being at the front of the belt run. Failing that was to take off the inlet sproket, offer up the belt and shoehorn the sprocket back onto its hub.

Wish me luck.

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Post by addo »

Did you consider a non-injurious lube - either the tyre fitting "soap" or something like (gasp!) K-Y?
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Post by tonupteabag »

hmmm rubber and ky jelly the mind boggles :shock:
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