Xantia 1.9TD 1995 rear suspention issue?

igor253 · Post by **igor253** » 29 Mar 2010, 22:40

I have a problem with my rear suspension. The car sometimes jumps around uncontrolablly when I drive it, but sometimes it works just fine. But when I have someone sitting in the back or when I put something in te trunk, there is no stoping it, it jumps like it's on a trampoline. So my guess is that the rear spheres are sometimes blocked or something. Now I want to replace these spheres, but before I do that, my question is, Is there anything else that could be causing this, becuse the spheres are pretty expensive? I noticed that my LHM fluid level is too high, could this be causing the "jump-around"?

Thanks in advance!

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 29 Mar 2010, 22:57

Spheres are approx £22 each from GSF

Could be the rear height corrector mechanism getting stiff so it's not levelling properly giving harder suspension.

Post by **CitroJim** » 30 Mar 2010, 10:39

Easy tests to do:

With the car up to pressure and levelled at normal height, press down on each corner. The rear should go down under quite light downward force with ease. On releasing the pressure, it should return to level with very little rebound. If this test passes, the spheres are not too bad. If it really bounces or the rear is rock-hard then the spheres are flat.

With the engine running, sit in the boot and the rear should go down smoothly and stay down for perhaps 20s whereupon the rear should rise back to level in one smooth motion. Get out of the boot and the rear should rise considerably and stay high for again perhaps 20s whereupon it should fall again back to level in one smooth motion.

If it's all jerky doing this then as Xac says, the rear height corrector mechanism needs attention. It's likely partially seized. It can be recovered to normal operation usually by giving it a good spray of WD40 and lots of exercise followed by a good spray of thin grease.

Also, a very worn "dog-bone" (the white plastic link between the mechanism and the anti-roll bar) can cause jerkiness, as can a loose ball on the mechanism itself if its rivet comes loose. The ball can be seen in the pictures below.

Here are some pictures of the mechanism dismantled and together. Note that the bolt to allow full disassembly is my modification as the pivot is normally riveted and they're not easy to dismantle.

Here's a proper diagram of the corrector assembly:

This shows both front and back correctors.

The hydraulic valve rarely gives problems unless the car has run with very dirty LHM for a considerable period.

tonupteabag · Post by **tonupteabag** » 02 Apr 2010, 18:17

can the height correcter be removed without disturbing the hydraulic valve?

Post by **CitroJim** » 02 Apr 2010, 19:22

tonupteabag wrote:can the height correcter be removed without disturbing the hydraulic valve?

Yes, with a lot of tedium and careful manipulation of the hydraulic pipes.

It's held in with three Torx bolts. Two are visible and one is hidden. It screws the corrector mechanism bracket to the side of the anti-sink sphere cradle.

Corrosion can make these bolts very tight. Douse in Plus-Gas and go easy.

Provided you have a GOOD 8mm flare nut spanner and some care and patience, it's just as easy to slip off the valve although you will invariably find the unions tight and corroded.

Plus-gas will help again...

It's easy enough to slip the valve far enough out of the way without disconnecting it just to see how free the mechanism is. Like this, you can give it a good lube and workout. It's held in with 2 11mm bolts.

That's what I'd do as the least risky/difficult and then plan subsequent actions based on what you find.

tonupteabag · Post by **tonupteabag** » 02 Apr 2010, 19:43

cheers jim i've just been under and drowned it with wd40 as i can feel it getting a bit sticky as it were i've manipulated it as much as possible but i feel its going to have to be stripped and done right

tonupteabag · Post by **tonupteabag** » 05 Apr 2010, 00:35

hi jim
where do i get the corrector union seals from? if possible do you have a link to someone? also what size are they as without climbing under i can't tell.

Post by **CitroJim** » 05 Apr 2010, 06:51

They're the 3.5mm ones. Ether get them from GSF or Pleiades. Main dealers should have them too..

A few seal tips: Make sure every trace of the old one is removed from the height corrector.

Lubricate the new one with LHM and knead it in your fingers a bit to soften it up.

Push the seal as far on the pipe as it will go, right up to the flare. Ensure the tip of the pipe extends beyond the seal by about half an mm or so.

Push pipe and seal into the height corrector port so that it is right home. Wiggle it a bit until it slips home. Start the union nut with fingers, manipulating the pipe until you feel the threads catch properly. Just nip it up, not over-tight.

You'll find the union nuts tight and corroded a bit when you come to remove them. Use only a good quality close-fitting 8mm hex flare nut spanner on them. Anything less risks rounding them.