I'm going to try and find the source of the massive internal leakage in my hydraulics this week - there's LHM flowing back to the tank at a rapid rate causing the regulator to clatter away every few seconds.
I'm not sure which hose is the return from what components on the top of the tank. From the front of the car, I'm guessing the first 2 are the high pressure pipes, then there are several smaller pipes. The only one I can identify is the the brake valve return pipe since it was replaced recently and looks new.
Also how much leakage from an individual component is acceptable?
Would the common problem of poor seating of the regulator ball cause LHM to flow back to the tank?
Any advice appreciated.
Xantia Fluid Hoses
Moderator: RichardW
bb -
The small hoses leading to reservoir are return/overflow & leak hoses, which certainly not should show any significant flow. At most some average dripping should be acceptable from these hoses, that is when nothing on the car is activated.
The largest hose is the pump feed hose, which you do'nt want to touch unless absolutely necessary.
Next largest hose is the regulator/PAS servo return hoses, which you can not really judge flow from, since the regulator/FD constantly returns excess pressure/fluid here.
My guess is you have a rapid flow problem in 1 of the small hoses, which then have to be traced back to the corresponding component.
The regulator itself is commonly very reliable, but lately several owners have reported here a leak teaser on the ball-valve seen when the sphere is removed.
The small hoses leading to reservoir are return/overflow & leak hoses, which certainly not should show any significant flow. At most some average dripping should be acceptable from these hoses, that is when nothing on the car is activated.
The largest hose is the pump feed hose, which you do'nt want to touch unless absolutely necessary.
Next largest hose is the regulator/PAS servo return hoses, which you can not really judge flow from, since the regulator/FD constantly returns excess pressure/fluid here.
My guess is you have a rapid flow problem in 1 of the small hoses, which then have to be traced back to the corresponding component.
The regulator itself is commonly very reliable, but lately several owners have reported here a leak teaser on the ball-valve seen when the sphere is removed.
There are 3 ways that fluid can escape from the accumulator, one is through the outlet to the safety switch (the correct one) another is down the valve shaft into the regulator itself and the third is back the way it came during the time the input pressure drops. The last one is controlled by the non-return valve which is a simple ball bearing valve.
I have re-seated the valve on 2 regulators and the effect has been to increase the pulsing time (with the same sphere) from 9 secs or less to something thats so slow I cant be bothered to measure it. Not bad for what is a free repair!
To do the job after supporting the car properly etc, release the pressure by slackening the bleed screw, and block the pump feed to reduce leakage. undo the sphere and remove the small bolt that can be seen in the sphere mount, remove it an the plate that retains the ball and the end of the centre valve. take care as the ball bearing will probably fall in your face. After making sure all is clean and there are no bits of filter or anything else in the hole, stick the ball valve in place with a dab of grease and strike it smartly using a brass rod (about 5mm in diameter) - then re-assemble - job done!
You must not use a steel bar as you will put a flat on the ball! The first one I did I used an old copper mig welder nozzle held onto a steel punch with an old Citroen pipe seal as I couldn't find any brass!
When you think about it unless the regulator leaks or its springs go soft there is not much else to go wrong unless there is serious wear round the valve pistons. The one I looked at looked like new with no shiny or duller parts.
Jeremy
I have re-seated the valve on 2 regulators and the effect has been to increase the pulsing time (with the same sphere) from 9 secs or less to something thats so slow I cant be bothered to measure it. Not bad for what is a free repair!
To do the job after supporting the car properly etc, release the pressure by slackening the bleed screw, and block the pump feed to reduce leakage. undo the sphere and remove the small bolt that can be seen in the sphere mount, remove it an the plate that retains the ball and the end of the centre valve. take care as the ball bearing will probably fall in your face. After making sure all is clean and there are no bits of filter or anything else in the hole, stick the ball valve in place with a dab of grease and strike it smartly using a brass rod (about 5mm in diameter) - then re-assemble - job done!
You must not use a steel bar as you will put a flat on the ball! The first one I did I used an old copper mig welder nozzle held onto a steel punch with an old Citroen pipe seal as I couldn't find any brass!
When you think about it unless the regulator leaks or its springs go soft there is not much else to go wrong unless there is serious wear round the valve pistons. The one I looked at looked like new with no shiny or duller parts.
Jeremy