Replacement pipes
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CitroJim
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Which ones Mike?
The only 4.5mm one that immediately springs to mind is the pipe into the anti-sink sphere. The rest (mainly) are 3.5mm.
As Peter says, a natter with Martin will pay dividends...
The only 4.5mm one that immediately springs to mind is the pipe into the anti-sink sphere. The rest (mainly) are 3.5mm.
As Peter says, a natter with Martin will pay dividends...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 49658
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- Location: Paggers
- My Cars: Bluebell the AX, Polly the C3 Picasso, Pix the Nissan Pixo, Propel the duathlon bike, TCR Pro the road bike and Fuji the TT bike...
- x 6204
- Contact:
Yes, that 10mm pipe between the Activa Sphere block and the ram pipes has to come off complete to be able to change the ram otherwise it's just about impossible to get at the other ram pipe union.
No need to replace the pipe unless it is badly distressed although I see it has been replaced on Project Activa here when it had a new ram a couple of years ago. Douse the unions in Plus-gas, wire brush them and set about undoing them with a good 17mm flarenut spanner. I reckon that pipe is replaced mainly because people attack the flarenuts with an OE spanner and round off the hexagons and then have to resort to molegrips. It is pretty tight in the sphere block and after a few years of corrosion they can put up a fight .
Whereabout is the suspension cylinder leaking Mike? Up by the sphere or down by the rubber gaiter? If the latter, check both leakoff pipes are secure into the rubber gaiter and that the gaiter itself is not perished, especially where the little leakoff spigots are moulded in.
I agree you only want to replace the rear ram once. It's a right devil of a job, made difficult because of where the unions are. The front one is a piece of cake by comparison unless one or both flarenuts seize to the pipe as one did on Project Activa.
One tip if you're replacing the ram flexi hoses as well: You'll find a normal OE 15mm spanner (rear) or 13mm (front) spanner is not good enough to undo the flexi unions at the ram end. The jaws will spread. A standard flarenut spanner won't fit due to the diameter of the pipe ferrule being bigger than the hex but you can modify a flarenut spanner by grinding the jaw opening wider so it will just slip on the hexagon. The general bulk and meatiness of a flarenut spanner means it will retain sufficient rigidity even though you've ground part of it away to make it fit. Also, give the spanner a sharp tap with your fist or soft-faced mallet to start the pipes loosening.
At risk of repeating myself again, don't throw the old rams away!
No need to replace the pipe unless it is badly distressed although I see it has been replaced on Project Activa here when it had a new ram a couple of years ago. Douse the unions in Plus-gas, wire brush them and set about undoing them with a good 17mm flarenut spanner. I reckon that pipe is replaced mainly because people attack the flarenuts with an OE spanner and round off the hexagons and then have to resort to molegrips. It is pretty tight in the sphere block and after a few years of corrosion they can put up a fight .
Whereabout is the suspension cylinder leaking Mike? Up by the sphere or down by the rubber gaiter? If the latter, check both leakoff pipes are secure into the rubber gaiter and that the gaiter itself is not perished, especially where the little leakoff spigots are moulded in.
I agree you only want to replace the rear ram once. It's a right devil of a job, made difficult because of where the unions are. The front one is a piece of cake by comparison unless one or both flarenuts seize to the pipe as one did on Project Activa.
One tip if you're replacing the ram flexi hoses as well: You'll find a normal OE 15mm spanner (rear) or 13mm (front) spanner is not good enough to undo the flexi unions at the ram end. The jaws will spread. A standard flarenut spanner won't fit due to the diameter of the pipe ferrule being bigger than the hex but you can modify a flarenut spanner by grinding the jaw opening wider so it will just slip on the hexagon. The general bulk and meatiness of a flarenut spanner means it will retain sufficient rigidity even though you've ground part of it away to make it fit. Also, give the spanner a sharp tap with your fist or soft-faced mallet to start the pipes loosening.
At risk of repeating myself again, don't throw the old rams away!
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...