Hi all
Would just some extra advice on how to refit the fuel line feed to the fuel filter and then onto the pump on the 2.1td.If you look closely you can see that something has been bypassed on my new arrival
Cheers
Colin
Xantia 2.1 td engine bay
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It will either be a split pipe in a hard to get place, or the Fuel Heater is playing up and causing starting problems, which in UK climate, is not really needed...
Looking nice so far..
Paul
Looking nice so far..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
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1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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A very sad...
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The feed pipe should go under the inlet manifold, along the the frunt of the engine and into the base of the filter housing at the back, you will be able to work out the outlet by yourself.
Before reconecting I'd remove the filter and housing, give it a good clean and use some sealant on the base and the small round bit on the LHS (this is a thurmostate) before refitting (also let the sealant cure before priming the system) as this most probably the reason it was bypassed (sucking in air), the 2.1 is very sencertive to air in the pump.
Before reconecting I'd remove the filter and housing, give it a good clean and use some sealant on the base and the small round bit on the LHS (this is a thurmostate) before refitting (also let the sealant cure before priming the system) as this most probably the reason it was bypassed (sucking in air), the 2.1 is very sencertive to air in the pump.
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Hi Colin,
Yes, do use clear pipe for all. Then you can easily see air. The standard installation uses clear pipe in both supply and return ruight up to the bracket where the rubber pipes terminate on the bracket by the cam cover. Mine additionally had clear pipe right up too the primer bulb.
The filter body is held onto the engine top hose casting via a 13mm bolt in the bottom of it accessible after removing the filter element.
Don't use any sealant as the body to casting seal is achieved by an O ring.
Yes, do use clear pipe for all. Then you can easily see air. The standard installation uses clear pipe in both supply and return ruight up to the bracket where the rubber pipes terminate on the bracket by the cam cover. Mine additionally had clear pipe right up too the primer bulb.
The filter body is held onto the engine top hose casting via a 13mm bolt in the bottom of it accessible after removing the filter element.
Don't use any sealant as the body to casting seal is achieved by an O ring.
Jim
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Slightly off topic but worth saying:
I've always found this type of fuel filter housing was the most efficient, shame they changed it for the DW8 (I know the XUD9 has a smaller "housing", but its essentially the same)
Reliable and very quick and easy to change the filter, and you get a decent amount of warmth to the fuel too.
The 'back of the block' early heaters are a pain, closely followed by the '3 part' ones on the bulkhead (as you are supposed to take coolant pipes off) , very messy indeed to change the filter as its exposed as soon as you undo the bolt.
I've always found this type of fuel filter housing was the most efficient, shame they changed it for the DW8 (I know the XUD9 has a smaller "housing", but its essentially the same)
Reliable and very quick and easy to change the filter, and you get a decent amount of warmth to the fuel too.
The 'back of the block' early heaters are a pain, closely followed by the '3 part' ones on the bulkhead (as you are supposed to take coolant pipes off) , very messy indeed to change the filter as its exposed as soon as you undo the bolt.
Andy.
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91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
Jim, I surgested sealant as the O rings oftern go flat and will not reseal if used again, and as you can't buy just the O ring (only the whole housing) this is a much cheaper way of getting it to seal.
99 406 LX HDI 90 estate
99 C250TD sport estate
01 306 HDI 90 meridian estate
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99 C250TD sport estate
01 306 HDI 90 meridian estate
Brew my own biodiesel
http://www.shorewasteoil.xtreemhost.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;