ABS Reluctor ring

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scoles
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ABS Reluctor ring

Post by scoles »

As above, been having a few ABS related problems and upon checking the front rings one appears to have a gap as in a piece missing.

Is it possible to replace these on their own or do they have to be renewed as part of a new CV joint?


Also the car has its MOT next week and i current have the ABS fuse out to stop the pedal kicking, how easy would it be to remove the bulb until i get the reluctor ring sorted?

Cheers
Stuart
Last edited by scoles on 18 Jan 2010, 19:13, edited 2 times in total.
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Xaccers
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Post by Xaccers »

S1 Xantia, remove steering wheel, remove column surround, remove flat panel in front of instrument panel, remove blank plate to right of steering wheel column, remove instrument panel, remove bulb, fight with connectors and refit is reversal of removal.
S2 Xantia, remove steering column surround, remove centre console surround, remove blank plate to right of steering column, remove radio, remove gazillion screws holding in button surround and flat panel in front of instrument panel, swear when clock lead gets broken, remove instrument panel, remove bulb, replace easier connectors and refit is reversal of removal, but probably with more swearing.

Then hope you don't have a bright MoT tester who notices the ABS light doesn't come on when the ignition is first turned on. Murphy's law and all that.

If you do go for removing the instrument panel, take the oppertunity to replace any blown bulbs, you do not want to do it more often than you have to!

It's a real pain about ABS faults which don't stop the brakes working causing an MoT fail, but I suppose I can understand why, though if we're able to show we've disabled ABS so it just has normal braking and there is no chance of the ABS sometimes kicking in to suprise us, why shouldn't that be ok and just an advisory?
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xmexclusive
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Post by xmexclusive »

Hi scoles

The MOT tester is required to check the start-up blink sequence of the ABS.
They have blink squence lists for all cars.
No light on an ABS fitted car is an automatic failure.

That said it may well pass as it is.
If the car completes the ABS start-up sequence correctly then technically it should pass the MOT. This static test of the ABS only checks that the sensors are present and as the wheels do not move the state of the ABS ring is immaterial. The only risk is that the light comes permanently on later during the test and that the tester notices. Technically at that point in the test the ABS has already been passed as working.
If the car is in this state then the ABS will reset and clear every time the engine is restarted.

Toothed rings normally come as part of the CV joint.

John
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scoles
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Post by scoles »

Thanks for both them posts very info filled

I have priced the CV joint and am going to replace it but i wont have time before this friday unfortunately hence why i was thinking about the bulb.

Also the ABS light doesnt come on at all when i have the fuse in.

But the pedal kicks at low speeds and i think it due to the ring having a break in it.

I am fairly friendly with the MOT tester.

its a pain in the rear end.


Also how do i know which xantia i have ie S1 or S2.....its 2001 Xplate HDi

Stuart
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Post by citronut »

is the gap just 1 or more teeth rusted away, or is the ring actualy split, in either case if you are good with a mig welder it is possible to reconstruct,

this dose depend on if you have welding equipment at your disposal and are able to use it, to wether this is the viable opption,

i do have the outter half of a brand new OE ZX TD drive shaft with an ABS CV joint attached, i borrowed the inner section for the pug 406 TD we were putting on the road for my daughter, as the one on the 406 a previous owner had mullerd,

the outter shaft i have might not be any use to you but the CV joint may be the same as the XANT one,

if any goood i would like 25 quid pluss carridge from St Leonards on sea East Sussex,


regards malcolm
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Post by Xantidote »

HDI = S2. S2 introduced early 1998, and last S1 are generally on "R" plate
Martin

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scoles
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Post by scoles »

citronut wrote:is the gap just 1 or more teeth rusted away, or is the ring actualy split, in either case if you are good with a mig welder it is possible to reconstruct,

this dose depend on if you have welding equipment at your disposal and are able to use it, to wether this is the viable opption,

i do have the outter half of a brand new OE ZX TD drive shaft with an ABS CV joint attached, i borrowed the inner section for the pug 406 TD we were putting on the road for my daughter, as the one on the 406 a previous owner had mullerd,

the outter shaft i have might not be any use to you but the CV joint may be the same as the XANT one,

if any goood i would like 25 quid pluss carridge from St Leonards on sea East Sussex,


regards malcolm
the gap is litterally a bit missing inbetween teeth and not much more. i do have a mig welder at my disposal and can be quite handy with it.

I think i will need to get a picture of this as thinking about it now the gap is where the "gap" in between teeth would usually be.

But the drivers side doesnt have a gap at all and when the ABS kicks in it deffinately feels like the passengers wheels thats shuddering with the ABS.

How would i find out if the CV joint was the same?
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Post by citroenxm »

This is IDENTICAL to a fault I have on a 2000 W reg HDi here, although it doesn't cause a light problem, she (the owner) has complained about the abs activating prematurly..

Paul
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scoles
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Post by scoles »

citroenxm wrote:This is IDENTICAL to a fault I have on a 2000 W reg HDi here, although it doesn't cause a light problem, she (the owner) has complained about the abs activating prematurly..

Paul
This car has always had this since i got it running Paul, which ended up in me removing the ABS fuse to rule it out and it stopped.

I decided to check the reluctor rings last night to see if they were dirty and sure as they were a little so cleaned them up along with the ABS sensor.

While checking the passenger side one i noticed the gap that looked like a broken part missing.

In reply to your text Paul, i have no idea if they are the same, i was kind of going to ask the same question. I phoned my local parts place and its £60 including VAT for a new CV joint, Although he lists 2 types but cannot tell teh difference.

I came accross a website that sells the reluctor rings seperatley but there about £50 and they said that it was just a case of knocking the old one off and heating the new one up and slotting it on.
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Post by scoles »

If someone has a CV joint from a xantia HDi sitting about thats knackered i could do with knowing the ID of the ABS ring or the OD of the part that it sits on.

Doesnt need to be mega precise but the closer the better.

I have a contact for making these rings individually at a very good price but they need to know the number of teeth which is 48 and the ID of the ring.

He reckons it should be in the area of either 80 odd mm or 90mm

Any help is much appreciated.


Cheers
Stuart
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relcutor rings

Post by paulbx »

http://www.reluctorrings.com/index.php

£34


Paul B

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Broomie(paulB) Xantia Hdi 90 estate
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scoles
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Re: relcutor rings

Post by scoles »

paulbx wrote:http://www.reluctorrings.com/index.php

£34


Paul B

Xantia estate 90 bhp hdi
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Broomie(paulB) Xantia Hdi 90 estate
Hi cheers for that, came accross that website yesterday, I have spoken with someone from a transmission company in leeds and he does them for £18 each which is a fair saving off that website, which by the time you add postage and vat on its £49.

Thanks again
Stuart
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Post by marsalek »

Hi,
just a week before MOT I found that my reluctor ring is split and moves freely around the CV joint. The ABS went on every morning after driving some hundred meters.

I cleaned the CV joint surface and glued the ring in place. The ring itself is not heavy, so the glue just keeps the ring revolving on the same speed as the joint.

Is it really possible to weld the ring on the joint? The ring is made of some alluminium alloy and the CV joint is of steel!

Karel
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Post by handyman »

Karel, here in the UK, we have special technologies that Germany can only dream of. Welding aluminium to steel is just one. Brass into gold, water into wine, growing money trees, ...... the list goes on! :P :P :P

Handyman
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Post by thorter »

According to notes I made when I had the same problem, the ABS ring inner diameter is 90mm, outside diameter 99mm. I doubt the ring can be welded - it will be soft iron, and probably sintered (hot pressed from powder).

Gluing it is an option, but make sure you remove all rust so that the teeth are evenly spaced over the break.

Fred
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