Strange steering after replacing height corrector

skog77 · Post by **skog77** » 17 Jan 2010, 01:34

Hello everyone,

I belive the car havent been used much lately, but it wasnt like that when i bought it. However it's become like this the more i've used it.

citroenxm: it's not a td it's a 2.0i 8valve. Is the bleed screw on the front regulator? It's not the same as the depressurizing screw is it? The xantia is 95 so it has the anti sink sphere.

When you mean the uj joint, is it where the steering colums goes into the engine? There appears to be a small leak there actually.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 17 Jan 2010, 02:02

Hei Norgefar 8)

skog77 wrote: Is the bleed screw on the front regulator? It's not the same as the depressurizing screw is it?

Oh yes - it is the exact same thing.

skog77 wrote:When you mean the uj joint, is it where the steering colums goes into the engine? There appears to be a small leak there actually.

The uj joint is the steel cardanic flexible joint.
On the Xantia it is prone to rust and then the steering stiffens up, most often followed by a notchy feeling on the steering wheel.
(uj = universal joint)

Using a spraylube liberally over the joint, it will almost immediately loosen up like a miracle after a few turns on teh steering wheel.
WD-40 is NOT a good solution as this will quickly dry out.
MC Chainlube is perfect : http://biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/MC/Olje-o ... tt-for-MC/

The leak you mentioned must be from the pinion valve, which controls the servo assistance to the steering.
There are a couple of possile cause for leak.
Best you can do is a very good cleaning of the area involved, and then look for any traces of LHM..
I'd suspect the axle seal (pakdåse) inside the top of the unit.
But the steel piping is known to create cracks just behind the union nuts.

You can get a repair kit from Citroen at a very reasonable cost and then overhaul the valve.
4048.Q8 REPARATIONSKIT 272,50DKK (incl 25%vat)
The worst part is getting the valve out.
Dismantling and overhauling it is a piece of cake.

Good luck.

skog77 · Post by **skog77** » 17 Jan 2010, 02:09

Thanks Anders!

I'll put some grease on it and see if it helps. Since the resistance comes at the same place every revolution of the steering wheel it would make sense that it's the joint and not a hydraulic issue i guess.

btw i might move to Odense this summer to attend the University, det er deilig å være Norsk i Danmark

addo · Post by **addo** » 17 Jan 2010, 10:16

There is also an "unofficial" repair kit with slightly less parts - it only has the yellow hat instead of about six different colours.

If you have access to a power steering specialist, they may be able to supply the kit cheaper than Citroën. One fellow locally uses them, and he is a perfectionist - good enough reason for me to trust these parts.

Top seal leakage usually occurs when steering has become stiff and the shaft deflects slightly in its bore. On AussieFrogs I listed the seals separately by description of part numbers or dimensions.

skog77 · Post by **skog77** » 18 Jan 2010, 14:30

OK i lubricated the joint and the steering is much better. Difficult to tell if it's back to normal as im driving around in 2-3 feet of snow but atleast i dont have to pull the steeringwheel back to centre position when cornering.

One question about bleeding the hydraulics, i decided to do this anyway just to be sure. Set it in service low and opened the depressurizing screw. Should'nt LHM be coming out of there at one point if the objective is to bleed the system? If not, i don't get how it works

Thanks for the help anyway

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 18 Jan 2010, 14:40

The depressurising screw allows LHM to flow back to the resevoir, where any gas in it can escape

skog77 · Post by **skog77** » 18 Jan 2010, 15:05

Xac wrote:The depressurising screw allows LHM to flow back to the resevoir, where any gas in it can escape

I see so the gas comes up in the reservoir

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 18 Jan 2010, 15:58

Hej igen -

I donno why the british LHM heads are so mad on bleeding the system by using this depressurising screw

But over here we stay comfortably in the warm car and play a bit with the height setting button instead - enjoing the stereo and a hot coffee, while the car slowly and gently waves up and down

Every time the accumulator sphere is charged, the regulator cuts out and lets the pump circulate the LHM freely in the regulator main circuit, thereby very effectively venting any gas or air out to the reservoir.
I can not to my best see any point in crawling about on the snowy frosty dirt to mess with the 12mm bolt.
The only purpose of this "bleed" screw is to empty the stored pressure in the accumulator sphere in case of service or repair works on the system.
It was never meant to be used as a "vent valve" or "bleed screw" as this does not make any sense to how the system is constructed and functions.

I'm very sorry gents, but my postulate is that you are making hell too cold on a VERY simple operation indeed : doing the Citaerobics.
Which we have been doing ever since the D-days from inside the car 8)

Post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Jan 2010, 18:55

I would concur, I just put the suspension right down and wait until it stops hissing then a bit more.

Peter