Hello all, me again
Well, my 1998 Xantia 1900 TD which is heavily used has sprung a leak. Near side rear. Its leaking on the unit which has a rubber gattor on it, I've had a feel of the unit that the rubber gattor covers and it's loose, the off side one isn't so I'm assuming it's knackered. Can anyone point me in the right direction to getting a replacement & does anyone know how to fit them?
Very much appreciated as always guys
CoXen
Just had a look on ebay, I believe the part to be knackred to be under the grommet end on this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XANTIA-REAR-SUSPE ... 414bac5f05
Would this unit of a petrol fit?
CoXen
Leaking rear suspension
Moderator: RichardW
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Oh no, sounds like the strut boot... the actuall fitting of the boot and spring clip is NOT a problem. You DO need the proper Clip ONLY from Citroen I beleve!
The BIGGEST problem is getting the Clip out of the bottom of the strut which holds it to the suspension arm.. it WELDS itself into the hole its in..
At the base of the strut theres an R type clip, this needs removing, and it does not just pull out, you'll need to work out a method of removal, if your replacing the boot, then heat could well be your best friend, tried I have a few times and have failed to remove these. (Anyone got a succesfull way)
Then once that is out, the end of thestrut should pull or pop, as again it be croded in place, once thats out, then the boot can be easilly changed... the two pipes that are pushed in, simply pull out, they are low pressure returns, in fact ONES a return the others a breather, so MAKE SURE they go back the same way!!
Paul
The BIGGEST problem is getting the Clip out of the bottom of the strut which holds it to the suspension arm.. it WELDS itself into the hole its in..
At the base of the strut theres an R type clip, this needs removing, and it does not just pull out, you'll need to work out a method of removal, if your replacing the boot, then heat could well be your best friend, tried I have a few times and have failed to remove these. (Anyone got a succesfull way)
Then once that is out, the end of thestrut should pull or pop, as again it be croded in place, once thats out, then the boot can be easilly changed... the two pipes that are pushed in, simply pull out, they are low pressure returns, in fact ONES a return the others a breather, so MAKE SURE they go back the same way!!
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 70
hi James
it might just be the boot/gaitor, i have not seen a suspension cylinder corroded through on a XANT as yet like the BX ones do,
the susp unit should float about when there is no presure/weight on the suspension, system depresurised,
the O/S unit might just be stuck with crap and grit between it and the sub frame,
if you are able you can always drop by so i can confirm the part at fault
regards malcolm
it might just be the boot/gaitor, i have not seen a suspension cylinder corroded through on a XANT as yet like the BX ones do,
the susp unit should float about when there is no presure/weight on the suspension, system depresurised,
the O/S unit might just be stuck with crap and grit between it and the sub frame,
if you are able you can always drop by so i can confirm the part at fault
regards malcolm
Hi James,
I know it's not always easy, but have you identified exactly where the LHM is coming from? Has the boot split, or could it be that one of the 2 small pipes Paul's referred to has split, or pulled out of the rubber boot?
As paul says, can be a pig to remove the R clip at the front end of the boot. I suspect on most cars the clip seizes up with rust, and it's difficult to find the hole (excuse me). Last year, to remove the clip, not disturbed in 14 years, I dosed it from both sides with Plus Gas over a couple of days, and the clip drove out quite easily using hammer and a drift (IIRC 2.5mm dia = 3/32")
Good luck - Martin
I know it's not always easy, but have you identified exactly where the LHM is coming from? Has the boot split, or could it be that one of the 2 small pipes Paul's referred to has split, or pulled out of the rubber boot?
As paul says, can be a pig to remove the R clip at the front end of the boot. I suspect on most cars the clip seizes up with rust, and it's difficult to find the hole (excuse me). Last year, to remove the clip, not disturbed in 14 years, I dosed it from both sides with Plus Gas over a couple of days, and the clip drove out quite easily using hammer and a drift (IIRC 2.5mm dia = 3/32")
Good luck - Martin
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
Hello Martin,
I got the motor up on the ramps and let the engine run, it doesnt leak whilst it's running only once the engine stops or the the suspension changes height. It's coming out from around the end of the boot, at the opposite end of the sphere. I managed to pull the boot back. The rear near side has been dodgy for a month or so, I think it's just finally had enough.
What's strange, what ever is under the boot feels loose.
Much appreciated
James
I got the motor up on the ramps and let the engine run, it doesnt leak whilst it's running only once the engine stops or the the suspension changes height. It's coming out from around the end of the boot, at the opposite end of the sphere. I managed to pull the boot back. The rear near side has been dodgy for a month or so, I think it's just finally had enough.
What's strange, what ever is under the boot feels loose.
Much appreciated
James
Under the boot, there's a strut, which is loose until there's weight on the suspension, so no worries. At it's front end, the strut's held in place by the R clip, which fits horizontally to form a knuckle joint, allowing the strut to pivot up and down in the vertical plane.
At the sphere end, the strut just locates loosely into the back of the piston which slides in the suspension cylinder.
I've always wondered how much LHM there should be lying in the boot, as it can only be leakage past the O-ring which forms the piston-cylinder seal.
You say you've pulled back the front end of the boot. I recollect struggling and finding it impossible to slide the boot back (towards front of car) over not just the first "ridge", but the second ridge as well, as access is limited. I tried using little screwdrivers & thin nosed pliers but no joy, and in the end, to avoid risk of puncturing the boot, I removed the sphere and cylinder assembly from car, and it was then a doddle to pull the boot correctly into position. Just had to be careful on refitting, that the boot stayed in place. Took me 2 hrs to sort this little problem out - no doubt someone will be along to tell me of a much simpler way!
Perhaps you have a little split in the end of the boot at the front end, giving the LHM leak, and explaining how you're finding it easy to refit the boot over the knuckle?
At the sphere end, the strut just locates loosely into the back of the piston which slides in the suspension cylinder.
I've always wondered how much LHM there should be lying in the boot, as it can only be leakage past the O-ring which forms the piston-cylinder seal.
You say you've pulled back the front end of the boot. I recollect struggling and finding it impossible to slide the boot back (towards front of car) over not just the first "ridge", but the second ridge as well, as access is limited. I tried using little screwdrivers & thin nosed pliers but no joy, and in the end, to avoid risk of puncturing the boot, I removed the sphere and cylinder assembly from car, and it was then a doddle to pull the boot correctly into position. Just had to be careful on refitting, that the boot stayed in place. Took me 2 hrs to sort this little problem out - no doubt someone will be along to tell me of a much simpler way!
Perhaps you have a little split in the end of the boot at the front end, giving the LHM leak, and explaining how you're finding it easy to refit the boot over the knuckle?
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )