Hello
I have a 2001 1.9D Berlingo, but the front washer is intermittent and the rear one doesn't work at all.
I've no idea what the problem is yet so any suggestions would be welcome, as well as the best way to access the motor, which I think is somewhere around the front offside wheel arch.
Apologies if this has already been answered recently.
Thanks,
Mark
Berlingo windscreen washer fault
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the_weaver
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Mark
I've just had similar problems with the washers on my ZX, which I managed to fix. I don't know anything about the Berlingo but I suspect that the washers might be similar to the ZX. I'll give you some advice based on the ZX but it may be different for the Berlingo.
On the ZX there is a single washer motor/pump which is in the offside wheel arch. You get to the pump by putting the front of the car on axle stands and removing the offside front roadwheel. Then remove the wheel arch liner (possibly just the rear bit of it) and the pump is located at the bottom of the washer bottle (underneath the position of the washer cap). You can pull the pump out from the washer bottle by hand but expect to get soaked with washer fluid or drain the bottle first. It's a dirty job, removing the wheel arch liner, so I would be inclined to check everything else first and the motor last.
On the ZX, there is a single motor which serves both the front and the rear washers. There are two outlets and the motor turns in opposite directions for the front and for the rear. This system is very prone to problems such as intermittent operation, in my experience. I've had nothing but trouble with mine over the years. The problem seems to be that water will always follow the easiest path. With the single motor system, if there is a minor blockage in the rear system and you try to use the rear washer, then the water will tend to flow out of the front nozzles. In cold weather, the system seems to become intermittent as ice might block the rear nozzle and the water will flow out of the front nozzles rather than force it's way through the blockage at the rear. The design is basically a bit flawed and the system is not very tolerant of cold weather. Having said that, once I fixed all the problems with my system, it does now work ok.
The main problem I had was a leak in the rear washer pipe which eventually snapped completely. This was at the point where the pipe crosses over from the rear of the roof to the hatch. The pipe bends at 90 degrees at this point and the break was concealed inside a rubber grommet. This break leaked water and also allowed air into the system. This caused intermittent operation of the front and rear washers for a long time before it eventually snapped completely.
Any leaks in the pipework will cause problems with intermittent operation and loss of washer power. There are two non-return valves in the system. One at the front near the washer bottle cap. One at the rear, at the top of the hatch, about six inches from the nozzle. The non-return valves are important for correct operation. The pipework should be full of washer fluid from the pump to the non-return valves. If you put coloured screenwash fluid in you can usually see the difference between the fluid and any air bubbles. Check for air bubbles getting back past the non-return valves. This would indicate either leaks or faulty valves. Air bubbles between the non-return valves and the nozzles are ok but not further back than the valves. The washer pipe can harden after a few years and this can cause leaks, usually where it is pushed over the non-return valves. If you've got leaks then you can usually cut off the hardened part of the pipe for about 1cm and make a new connection, soaking the pipe in hot water for a minute to make it easier to push on.
The non-return valves can give problems. The Citroen ones can leak from the centre of the body, where the black bit joins the white bit. They can be blocked internally. They can fail to operate as a one-way valve and start operating as a two-way valve. You can blow through them to try to check them but I'm not sure it's that easy to work out if they're good or bad. I've seen some valves which you can blow through one way but not the other way, but some valves which are brand new which can't be tested by blowing because they seem to require too much force to blow them with your mouth. It might be easier to just change them if you suspect problems.
In this cold weather, nozzles can freeze up. Try using a needle or pin to clear the nozzles at the front and the rear. Can you hear the motor turning when you operate the front washers followed by the rear washers? If the motor is turning on both occasions then I would assume it's ok and leave it until last. You should be able to hear a slightly different sound from the motor as it changes direction when you change from front to rear washers.
One other thing I've noticed is that sometimes you can get an air lock in the pipework to the rear washer. If everything seems ok but the water just won't flow to the rear then you can try clearing the air lock by removing the pipe from the motor where it connects to the non-return valve at the rear and blowing down the pipe. You should be able to hear bubbling sounds in the washer bottle. Then reconnect the non-return valve and try the rear washers first, before the front ones. Obviously you can't do this without disconnecting the non-return valve as it won't allow air to pass backwards through the system.
Paul
P.S. - I know somebody called Mark Edwards. You're not Mark Edwards from Towcester, by any chance, are you?
I've just had similar problems with the washers on my ZX, which I managed to fix. I don't know anything about the Berlingo but I suspect that the washers might be similar to the ZX. I'll give you some advice based on the ZX but it may be different for the Berlingo.
On the ZX there is a single washer motor/pump which is in the offside wheel arch. You get to the pump by putting the front of the car on axle stands and removing the offside front roadwheel. Then remove the wheel arch liner (possibly just the rear bit of it) and the pump is located at the bottom of the washer bottle (underneath the position of the washer cap). You can pull the pump out from the washer bottle by hand but expect to get soaked with washer fluid or drain the bottle first. It's a dirty job, removing the wheel arch liner, so I would be inclined to check everything else first and the motor last.
On the ZX, there is a single motor which serves both the front and the rear washers. There are two outlets and the motor turns in opposite directions for the front and for the rear. This system is very prone to problems such as intermittent operation, in my experience. I've had nothing but trouble with mine over the years. The problem seems to be that water will always follow the easiest path. With the single motor system, if there is a minor blockage in the rear system and you try to use the rear washer, then the water will tend to flow out of the front nozzles. In cold weather, the system seems to become intermittent as ice might block the rear nozzle and the water will flow out of the front nozzles rather than force it's way through the blockage at the rear. The design is basically a bit flawed and the system is not very tolerant of cold weather. Having said that, once I fixed all the problems with my system, it does now work ok.
The main problem I had was a leak in the rear washer pipe which eventually snapped completely. This was at the point where the pipe crosses over from the rear of the roof to the hatch. The pipe bends at 90 degrees at this point and the break was concealed inside a rubber grommet. This break leaked water and also allowed air into the system. This caused intermittent operation of the front and rear washers for a long time before it eventually snapped completely.
Any leaks in the pipework will cause problems with intermittent operation and loss of washer power. There are two non-return valves in the system. One at the front near the washer bottle cap. One at the rear, at the top of the hatch, about six inches from the nozzle. The non-return valves are important for correct operation. The pipework should be full of washer fluid from the pump to the non-return valves. If you put coloured screenwash fluid in you can usually see the difference between the fluid and any air bubbles. Check for air bubbles getting back past the non-return valves. This would indicate either leaks or faulty valves. Air bubbles between the non-return valves and the nozzles are ok but not further back than the valves. The washer pipe can harden after a few years and this can cause leaks, usually where it is pushed over the non-return valves. If you've got leaks then you can usually cut off the hardened part of the pipe for about 1cm and make a new connection, soaking the pipe in hot water for a minute to make it easier to push on.
The non-return valves can give problems. The Citroen ones can leak from the centre of the body, where the black bit joins the white bit. They can be blocked internally. They can fail to operate as a one-way valve and start operating as a two-way valve. You can blow through them to try to check them but I'm not sure it's that easy to work out if they're good or bad. I've seen some valves which you can blow through one way but not the other way, but some valves which are brand new which can't be tested by blowing because they seem to require too much force to blow them with your mouth. It might be easier to just change them if you suspect problems.
In this cold weather, nozzles can freeze up. Try using a needle or pin to clear the nozzles at the front and the rear. Can you hear the motor turning when you operate the front washers followed by the rear washers? If the motor is turning on both occasions then I would assume it's ok and leave it until last. You should be able to hear a slightly different sound from the motor as it changes direction when you change from front to rear washers.
One other thing I've noticed is that sometimes you can get an air lock in the pipework to the rear washer. If everything seems ok but the water just won't flow to the rear then you can try clearing the air lock by removing the pipe from the motor where it connects to the non-return valve at the rear and blowing down the pipe. You should be able to hear bubbling sounds in the washer bottle. Then reconnect the non-return valve and try the rear washers first, before the front ones. Obviously you can't do this without disconnecting the non-return valve as it won't allow air to pass backwards through the system.
Paul
P.S. - I know somebody called Mark Edwards. You're not Mark Edwards from Towcester, by any chance, are you?
-
the_weaver
- Posts: 438
- Joined: 13 May 2008, 00:01
- Location: UK
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