Goo in the oil filer cap and stick ??
Moderator: RichardW
Goo in the oil filer cap and stick ??
Hi All,
I have just checked my oil and there is lots of scum / goo in the oil filler cap and also all the way up the Oil Stick. Its thick and its a whitey brown colour (reminds me of melted ice cream with chocolate sauce colour!)
I had the oil changed a year ago, so i guess it needs changing again. Is it anything to worry about?
I have a Xantia 1.8i 8v 1995 model.
Thanks
I have just checked my oil and there is lots of scum / goo in the oil filler cap and also all the way up the Oil Stick. Its thick and its a whitey brown colour (reminds me of melted ice cream with chocolate sauce colour!)
I had the oil changed a year ago, so i guess it needs changing again. Is it anything to worry about?
I have a Xantia 1.8i 8v 1995 model.
Thanks
I do only use it for short journeys - my commute to work is 2 miles! There was quite a lot of it in the filler cap though.
How would I know if the head gasket had gone?
PS it doesn't overheat - although the temp gauge goes three quarters up but no higher - it has done for the last 4 years and the blower never blows cold.
How would I know if the head gasket had gone?
PS it doesn't overheat - although the temp gauge goes three quarters up but no higher - it has done for the last 4 years and the blower never blows cold.
Thats your problem , 2 miles is nowhere near enough for the engine to reach full working temperature. What then happens is condensation forms and mixes with the oil as well as combustion byproducts that get past the piston rings and fuel which dilutes the oil.
This is just about the worst thing for an engine to endure and is considered to be severe service. Normal oil & filter change intervals are not adequate to protect the engine in these circumstances. I would advise you to have the oil changed at least every three months with that type of use , and in winter every 6 weeks, using a high quality oil. Even then , the engine will almost certainly suffer premature wear and not last as long.
The minimum journey mileage for the engine to reach full working temperature long enough to evaporate condensation and fuel dilution is 25 miles.
This is just about the worst thing for an engine to endure and is considered to be severe service. Normal oil & filter change intervals are not adequate to protect the engine in these circumstances. I would advise you to have the oil changed at least every three months with that type of use , and in winter every 6 weeks, using a high quality oil. Even then , the engine will almost certainly suffer premature wear and not last as long.
The minimum journey mileage for the engine to reach full working temperature long enough to evaporate condensation and fuel dilution is 25 miles.
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
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'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
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My past Citroens :-
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'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
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If you take the radiator cap off while the engine is cold , start it up and watch for bubbles coming up in the radiator, keep watching until the thermostat opens and feeds water through the radiator.
If you get no bubbles, take the car for a long run on the motorway to get it up to temperature and evaporate off the water, then change the oil and filter.
Edit to add: Like he^^said. (tooooo slow posting )
If you get no bubbles, take the car for a long run on the motorway to get it up to temperature and evaporate off the water, then change the oil and filter.
Edit to add: Like he^^said. (tooooo slow posting )
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I agree with all what HDI has said. In addition to that I would like to add a few things.HDI wrote:... 2 miles is nowhere near enough for the engine to reach full working temperature. ...
Now I would also clean the oil breathing hoses (I think they are called like that) which come from top of the engine to lower parts of the engine.
In mine 16V there are 2 small hoses which I clean before the cold season begins. I use ordinary brake cleaner.
I would have sent pics from mine but we have different type of engines.
Perfect descriptionjtownson wrote:... reminds me of melted ice cream with chocolate sauce colour! ...
Most probably this stuff is also in the oil breathing hoses now. In cold season it might freeze and block engine "breathing" channels.
As result oil pressure might rise and oil might find it's way outside the engine through the weakest link
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
Severe water contamination of the engine oil can also cause it to freeze in the sump if it's cold enough
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
The mayo in the oil is definately water getting in somewhere....
Your car may not show full on signs of head gasket failure as the head gasket may not have gone...yet.
If i was you i would get it checked over and follow whatever preventative advice is offered.
If the worse comes to the worse and it does need a head gasket job, your definately not the first (because ive had to get 3 done on Citroens over the years including my current one) and you wont be the last.
Good luck with the diagnosis
Your car may not show full on signs of head gasket failure as the head gasket may not have gone...yet.
If i was you i would get it checked over and follow whatever preventative advice is offered.
If the worse comes to the worse and it does need a head gasket job, your definately not the first (because ive had to get 3 done on Citroens over the years including my current one) and you wont be the last.
Good luck with the diagnosis
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These engines suffer terribly from mayo on very short journeys. I has a 205GTi with the 1.6 version of this engine and it was a constant nightmare. The problem, in part, is caused by the airbox always drawing in stone-cold air. Good for power but not for getting the oil hot on short journeys.
Can you not take a scenic route to work every now and again, just to get the engine nice and warm? I do this occasionally with my 6 mile commute as my engine barely gets right up to temperature. To show how this graphically, both my cars have oil temperature gauges and it takes a good 20 miles in winter for the oil to reach full working temperature.
On the plus side, a head gasket job is dead easy on an 8V but I doubt this is the problem. An 8V XU engine usually blows all the coolant out of the expansion bottle with some enthusiasm when it lets go.
Can you not take a scenic route to work every now and again, just to get the engine nice and warm? I do this occasionally with my 6 mile commute as my engine barely gets right up to temperature. To show how this graphically, both my cars have oil temperature gauges and it takes a good 20 miles in winter for the oil to reach full working temperature.
On the plus side, a head gasket job is dead easy on an 8V but I doubt this is the problem. An 8V XU engine usually blows all the coolant out of the expansion bottle with some enthusiasm when it lets go.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Great unless it's raining or winter , one of which applies to the UK most of the time
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
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