c5 disc and brake block

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 12 Nov 2009, 20:35

How easy is it to change the brakes and brake discs on a c5. Easy for a novice or not?

Post by **CitroJim** » 12 Nov 2009, 20:38

Front or rear? The precise model of C5 may be of assistance as well.

The only problem you may encounter is corrosion on the rear calipers (ah-la Xantia) but generally it should be a straightforward enough job.

I'm not aware of any quirks peculiar to the C5 but I'm sure if there is, they will soon be explained.

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 12 Nov 2009, 20:43

C5 HD1 110 lx

both front and rear.

Had rear trailing arm bearing replaced recently and they took the whole arm off because they couln't move bolts, Neeoiled.

Know the result of corrosion, watched as calipers crumbed when brake pad being replaced in France. They turned to duts in the guys hand, so two are new I just can't remember if it they were front of rear.

What's the process, given I get them off?

Inclusing the disc

Post by **myglaren** » 12 Nov 2009, 20:57

Can't help really, I farmed mine out. Had the front discs and pads renewed shortly after buying the car, rears done six weeks or so ago.

I believe the main things to watch out for are screwing the front pistons back into their bores, some insist on special tools.

At the same time it is advisable to crack the bleed nipples rather than push dirty fluid back through the system, there is a suggestion that the ABS system can be badly damaged otherwise.

As Jim says, the rear calipers are prone to corrosion on their mounting faces that pushes them of of alignment. Pads worn wedge shaped are a prime indicator of this.

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 12 Nov 2009, 22:07

Okay will get garage to do it. Was wondering as I am worried they howk them, (Don't take their time and force them) causing them to breakup. I will tell them to treat them like baby pants. The Bosch garage I found is owned by and old school aquaintance as it happens, never really knew him much but he still looked at the car twice for bugger all which was nice. So thought I may give him the jobbie.

If the rear is the problem, I take it I should not worry about the Front???

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 12 Nov 2009, 22:15

myglaren wrote: I believe the main things to watch out for are screwing the front pistons back into their bores, some insist on special tools.

.

Little tip for this , a 3/8" drive extension fits into the gap in the piston between the raised centre and the outer rim , then with a ratchet the piston can be wound in

I use this method when I've been caught without my wind back tool.

Post by **myglaren** » 12 Nov 2009, 22:17

Fronts don't seem to give any bother as long as the pistons are wound back correctly.

The corrosion on the rears can make them very difficult to remove as the bolts are very tight and locktighted for their full length, plus they are slightly bent as the caliper is pushed out of line by the corrosion.
They can be sheared off if not treated very carefully.

Not confirmed but have a suspicion that a Lexia should be used to open an internal valve to prevent damage to the ABS but opening the bleed nipples is supposed to circumvent this

Post by **RichardW** » 13 Nov 2009, 08:05

Calipers on the front of a C5 are handed - one screws in RH thread, one LH

Can't remember which is which though....

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 13 Nov 2009, 17:17

it was the calipers that crumbled. You know where the bolt hole is. Fell apart and the guy rubbed it in his hadns and it literally became dust. Scary I had been driving about with things that knackered.

alden · Post by **alden** » 13 Nov 2009, 20:52

did a set o front on my 2.2 sx est just b4 sold it

,i was aprehensive

as the handbrake is on front,

however,i have to say they were the easiest brakes i have ever done.

$\:D/$ .they realy are straight forward, providing you aint a complete novice

boristhespie · Post by **boristhespie** » 14 Nov 2009, 12:05

I am a complete novice, thing is I want to learn not just to save cash but for the sake of learning.

alden · Post by **alden** » 14 Nov 2009, 20:14

Then i would say let sombody assist you.until you know your thing.I learnt over the years,on other cars but their all similar.

Post by **myglaren** » 14 Nov 2009, 20:30

If you buy the second C5 then at least you have access to another car if the one you are working on takes longer than expected or gives you an unpleasant surprise, also good to compare the two.

If you take your time and work methodically, taking photo's along the way (unless your memory is infinitely better than mine) then you should be fine with it.

On the other hand...
I started to take my son's rear brakes off his Golf but had to throw in the towel and take it to the guys who did my injectors (at 8pm on a Sunday night!
Couldn't shift the allen bolts for love nor money.
They had to apply an oxy-acetylene flame t and use a 4' breaker bar to shift them.

We supplied the new discs and pads so they were sorted by 11pm.
I had fitted new pads to the front but in doing so determined that the pads were not the problem, the discs were shot. Fortunately he had discs in stock, unfortunately he didn't have dampers in stock and they were way beyond shot. New pair acquired at 9am, job complete by 12 noon.

Had I not had access to these guys it would have been a disaster as son was going home the following day and I was at work all day.
A second car is a godsend.

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 15 Nov 2009, 14:11

a complete novice

This job may be fairly hard.
Some calipers look like they have two holes to inject a fearsome thread locking goo to prevent the bolts from escaping.

Post by **Duracell** » 15 Nov 2009, 17:07

I've cleaned the corrosion from the rear calipers of both our C5's and found it exremely difficult to remove the bolts from the calipers due to the injected "glue". Each one had to be wound out using exreme force on a 2 ft breaker bar and the hole then cleaned out with a 10mm drill. I don't know why its necessary to glue them in like that as the design seems to be very similar to xantia's which in my experience have never been a problem. It seems a bit over the top to me.

The "crumbling" bolt holes on the caliper could just have been the remains of the locktite - mine looked a bit like that, but when they were cleaned up they were fine

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