Immobiliser panic after crash
Moderator: RichardW
-
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Dec 2008, 16:15
- Location:
- My Cars:
Immobiliser panic after crash
Hello all,
I have recently had someone run into my front offside resulting in a smashed headlight and sidelight, but my immobiliser is my worst concern... you see, when the car is locked up the red light is visible showing that the alarm is activated, but when I put my key into the ignition and turn once to put my code in, the green light and the red light stay on (there is also no beeping sound except when the buttons are pressed).
I know this is a result of the knock I had but where and how do I go about repairing the issue so that I can start my car.
This is my biggest problem as the insurance will sort out the other damage.
Many thank for your help and time on this.
Baz.
I have recently had someone run into my front offside resulting in a smashed headlight and sidelight, but my immobiliser is my worst concern... you see, when the car is locked up the red light is visible showing that the alarm is activated, but when I put my key into the ignition and turn once to put my code in, the green light and the red light stay on (there is also no beeping sound except when the buttons are pressed).
I know this is a result of the knock I had but where and how do I go about repairing the issue so that I can start my car.
This is my biggest problem as the insurance will sort out the other damage.
Many thank for your help and time on this.
Baz.
Life is hard.
-
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Dec 2008, 16:15
- Location:
- My Cars:
I have known these things to need re-setting after the code has been put in wrong too many times. It does the same thing, both lights on constant.
To re-set, you need to leave the car alone with the ignition switched on for about half an hour, sometimes takes longer. Dont touch the code pad or switch off the ignition untill just the red is lit up, otherwise you will have to start the process again.
May work, may not, but got to be worth a try.
Regards
Martin.
To re-set, you need to leave the car alone with the ignition switched on for about half an hour, sometimes takes longer. Dont touch the code pad or switch off the ignition untill just the red is lit up, otherwise you will have to start the process again.
May work, may not, but got to be worth a try.
Regards
Martin.
-
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Dec 2008, 16:15
- Location:
- My Cars:
-
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Dec 2008, 16:15
- Location:
- My Cars:
Thank you citronut,
I have found it (black rubber top), pressed it... nothing..... unplugged the brown connector to it, reconnected it... nothing.
Should I be doing anything else whilst trying this ie(leave key in ignition/leave out, disconnect battery/leave on), I know I sound like an old woman but is there a special process and procedure in this or do I just press and hold for a few seconds or what.
Thank you
I have found it (black rubber top), pressed it... nothing..... unplugged the brown connector to it, reconnected it... nothing.
Should I be doing anything else whilst trying this ie(leave key in ignition/leave out, disconnect battery/leave on), I know I sound like an old woman but is there a special process and procedure in this or do I just press and hold for a few seconds or what.
Thank you
Last edited by Mr Matthews on 10 Nov 2009, 12:23, edited 1 time in total.
Life is hard.
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Is there any heavy damage to the body at the front of the wing?? (SIDE ON)
I ask because the WHOLE MAIN Wiring loom from inside the car to the engine bay, including the communication from the key pad to the ECU runs behind the offside wing and into the engine bay just behind the indicator lens, you could have a broken wire in there somewere if its been hit badly..
Theres a joining plug RIGHT on the inner wing, has that come away? Have a look inside the bonnet behind the drivers headlight, you'll two plugs.. that look like they are plugged into the inner wing... check they are securly connected...
Rgds
Paul
I ask because the WHOLE MAIN Wiring loom from inside the car to the engine bay, including the communication from the key pad to the ECU runs behind the offside wing and into the engine bay just behind the indicator lens, you could have a broken wire in there somewere if its been hit badly..
Theres a joining plug RIGHT on the inner wing, has that come away? Have a look inside the bonnet behind the drivers headlight, you'll two plugs.. that look like they are plugged into the inner wing... check they are securly connected...
Rgds
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
-
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 05 Dec 2008, 16:15
- Location:
- My Cars:
Thank you citroenxm for this, Yes, it is the drivers side that took the impact... as far as damage I was lucky that the other car took more damage (shows the superb structure of the xantias ), Although my headlight and side light were smashed, they are still pretty much intact in the housing as for the wing, the damage only caused it to slightly buckle into where it meets the side light so perhaps yes, the plugs could have dislodged during the impact... I will check it out.
Thank you very much for this invaluable information my friend.
Thank you very much for this invaluable information my friend.
Life is hard.
Just to bring this one back up.....
Today I got a call from an old customer, his ZX would not start, now he had been playing about with the keypad, trying to set it to the four 1's for service code (he was taking it in for tyres)
Because the 1 button was very worn he had made a right cobble up and as a result the immobiliser had locked and was constantly beeping.
To reset this one here is what had to be done.
Leave the ignition on for 1 minute.
Turn the ignition off and leave for half an hour.
This then re-set the unit and I could start the car using his old code.
Once the car was going, we decided after consulting the owner, to dis-connect the unit as it was worn out on most of the keys in the pad.
No more troubles in this department.
Whilst I was under the bonnet I did however notice that the fuel pump (lucas) throttle spindle was leaking very bad, but thats another story to be fixed.
Regards
Martin.
Today I got a call from an old customer, his ZX would not start, now he had been playing about with the keypad, trying to set it to the four 1's for service code (he was taking it in for tyres)
Because the 1 button was very worn he had made a right cobble up and as a result the immobiliser had locked and was constantly beeping.
To reset this one here is what had to be done.
Leave the ignition on for 1 minute.
Turn the ignition off and leave for half an hour.
This then re-set the unit and I could start the car using his old code.
Once the car was going, we decided after consulting the owner, to dis-connect the unit as it was worn out on most of the keys in the pad.
No more troubles in this department.
Whilst I was under the bonnet I did however notice that the fuel pump (lucas) throttle spindle was leaking very bad, but thats another story to be fixed.
Regards
Martin.
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Ive done this on my V6... Started the car, removed the keypad WITH engine running - hey presto! NO MORE STUPID KEYPAD even after battery removal, Ive put the good old mobile/MP3 player tray back in place
Paul
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
- CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 49620
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- Location: Paggers
- My Cars: Bluebell the AX, Polly the C3 Picasso, Pix the Nissan Pixo, Propel the duathlon bike, TCR Pro the road bike and Fuji the TT bike...
- x 6182
- Contact:
I'm keypadless on my V6. Only problem is, when I get in my Activa (which does still have a keypad) or any other Xantia, I forget to key in the PIN, and then sit there wondering whay the car won't start and is bleeping at me
That's an easy job on a Lucas Martin It can all be done in-situ. Just lift the lid, replace the lid seal and spindle O rings and job done. On a Bosch, this job is a right pain. yet another reason why the Lucas is the superior pumpPleiades wrote:Whilst I was under the bonnet I did however notice that the fuel pump (lucas) throttle spindle was leaking very bad, but thats another story to be fixed..
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
-
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Shouldn't that be : "The only reason why the Lucas is superior" Jim??CitroJim wrote: yet another reason why the Lucas is the superior pump
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
Jim wrote
" Just lift the lid, replace the lid seal and spindle O rings and job done."
a LSUK diesel work shop technician (when we had one in Hastings that is )
told me when they do this job they fit a new pump top cover as the sindle hole becomes oval, still not an expencive job i think all the parts only came ro around 14 quid
regards malcolm
" Just lift the lid, replace the lid seal and spindle O rings and job done."
a LSUK diesel work shop technician (when we had one in Hastings that is )
told me when they do this job they fit a new pump top cover as the sindle hole becomes oval, still not an expencive job i think all the parts only came ro around 14 quid
regards malcolm
Yes I have done a few of these before, but I have never had one leaking after because of oval holes, but I will check the holes on this one out of interest.
The way I see it, is that this pump was designed to be fitted to a tractor, where it would sit at a constant rev for hours upon end, when the pump was used in a car I suppose that the constant movement of the throttle wears the seals and bingo, out comes the diesel.
My belief is that the bosch pump is better, Veg oil no problem
Regards
Martin.
The way I see it, is that this pump was designed to be fitted to a tractor, where it would sit at a constant rev for hours upon end, when the pump was used in a car I suppose that the constant movement of the throttle wears the seals and bingo, out comes the diesel.
My belief is that the bosch pump is better, Veg oil no problem
Regards
Martin.