Xantia II alternator belt auto-adjuster spring

[lexi]

Will you use the 1730?

I hope not , why, when the correct size has been confirmed as 1738?

No . I just wondered if John had taken it. Why can GSF not get a Dayco belt that size ?

: I`ve just checked the one that they supplied me some months ago.

I gave them my reg and am sure Ihave Delco AC Comp. The belt is 1740.

[John Plum]

@Lexi

I got a Quinten Hazel QH 1738 at my local spares off the shelf. At first they offered me a 1740 - advised as one of three alternatives ( 1736, 1725, 1738) for AC the model from their other suppliers' catalogue, but I asked them to check their stock as I prefer exactly 1738.

Seems like 1725 is offered as a matter of course. Both GSF and my local were going to provide those, with no further questions.

A shorter belt could have been fitted anyway on my new s/h car, as a way to make up for a deficient spring - for all I know. I still have to account for the fact that my short belt was still too slack. I'm still not sure if my spring is functioning properly, i believe it may stick at the place where it ends up, holes aligned , without returning (anti-clockwise). I guess its meant to spring back. BUt that may be because of a shorter belt.

So, I aim to switch over to the long belt and observe the tensioning action before, as well as after, I change the 1-piece top tensioner.
I'm not going to trust any sources yet. I thought the way Citroen listed the alternative as 'Harrisaw' was a bit slack, but the belt length is probably right for a 'Delphi'.

Once I 've found the 1738 to be good with a new tensioner, I'll let you know.
But I am interested in Jim's suggestion - conversion to manual tensioner system. I need to contemplate that.

[John Plum]

I stopped driving after running and inspecting the tightened belt on the old tensioner. I replaced the tensioner and spring. Whilst tightening the belt reduced noise, the duff bearings on the tensioner, meant the belt wasn't turning straight, like the roller was tilted a little. So edges got stripped.
At one point it tipped so as to scrape the housing. Also, I noticed a chunk missing from the roller inside edge which tore at the belt. I was only poodling around and inspecting.



A scuffed up tensioner where the spring seats:


Replacing the spring was easy at the same time, but the spring's lower bolt was hard to locate and engage, and to slacken I had to remove the water pipe to the oil cooler, so as to get a good turn, without hitting hydraulic pipes. Engaging the lower spring bolt upon re-assembly was easy.

Upon re-tensioning with the new tensioner, I found the 3/8" drive needed to go in far enough, or it slipped - i.e a 15mm long square drive on a drain plug socket, as opposed to 10mm on my (cheap) extension bar.

The new 738mm belt fits, with eccentric tensioner tightened about 3/4 of the way. I don't expect it to stretch.