Faults on my to do list !!!

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 06 Oct 2009, 13:37

I'm not a list type person but in the case of the Xantia I need a to do list so that all the faults are resolved before the next millennium !!

So , here we go ,

1/ Suspension going intermittently hard.

2/ Loss of power / limp home mode.

3/ Aircon not working.

4/ Headlamp washers not working.

5/ Heated seats not working on 1st two settings.

6/ Find a front undertray.

7/ Sort out various brackets and pipe supports under the bonnet.

8/ Replace oil temp / oil level sender.

9/ .......... I'm sure there was something else , errrmmm !

Grief , it's a bit daunting to see it all down in black & white !!

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 06 Oct 2009, 13:50

MMmm I've got a list like that, trouble is, everytime I cross something off the top I have to add something else to the bottom

Citroenmad · Post by **Citroenmad** » 06 Oct 2009, 14:48

You certainly have some busy weekends ahead

First one is easy, get an e-crofting suspension kit

Air con probably needs regassing?

Heated seats probably the switches?

Loss of power could be many things, MAF sensor might be my first port of call. At least a clean of it. Followed by some air intake cleaning/spray and a good blast. After that, Lexia is your friend

Chris,

Xantidote · Post by **Xantidote** » 06 Oct 2009, 16:13

Ah, so I'm not the only one with a "Things to do" list!!

Trying to get all the important jobs/faults sorted before the onset of winter. Of course, some jobs are low priority and may never get done (such as the faded paint on the tailgate top)

Martin -

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 06 Oct 2009, 21:48

Number two:

Limp home / power loss, WILL be one of those Electro valves by the offside sphere... I still cant tell you which one because Im HDi less at the moment.

Number Six

Under tray, Im certain Ive got one BUT the securing points were the bolts go through to screw to the subframe are all broken...

Number 3

Xantia Air Con systems are generally VERY reliable, and eith a SIMPLE Vac out and regas can sort that out, in worse cases the condenser MIGHT have a leak, or better, a set of seals, costing all of 2 quid FROM STEALERS! Two on the evaporater, behind LHM tank, 2 on the dryer, 2 on the Condenser, and two on the Compressor...

Paul

davetherave · Post by **davetherave** » 06 Oct 2009, 21:54

Its simple enough to fix the undertray! As i found out, baked bean cans (+ angle grinder) are great!

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 06 Oct 2009, 22:03

I'm working on the power loss / limp home. Have tried substituting the turbo electro valve with the EGR valve one but it hasn't worked. Either the EGR electro valve is also faulty or the fault is something else. At £33.00 odd I don't want to just buy a new one in blind hope !

The MAF sensor was replaced a while ago , so thats ruled out.

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 06 Oct 2009, 22:05

Dont think you can swap one for the other... I swapped BOTH together from the car I dismantled...

Paul

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 06 Oct 2009, 22:12

Stick a multimeter accross the terminals on the electrovalve, if its open circuit, the electrovalve is dead. On my Xantia TD, I could hear a click when the electrovalves operated. It wasn't a loud click but if you knew what to listen for you could hear it, you just need to know how to trigger it....

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 06 Oct 2009, 22:30

Already tried the valve and it does click and draw current. I also blew through it whilst applying voltage and air passed through regardless of power being applied or not. I guess that shows the valve side of it is not operating.

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 06 Oct 2009, 23:14

I've had two faults with the lights washers, the first was a duff pump which I replaced. They worked for a while and packed up again. The second fault turned out to be a dry joint in the pink timer relay which I resoldered and it's been fine ever since.

The heated seats are more of a mystery. I've often thought mine only work on the flat out setting, but if it's really cold then they seem to get warm on the lower settings but cut out well before getting to butt scorching as on full. I put it down to an overly sensitive thermostat control, but perhaps there's a common fault.

Post by **CitroJim** » 07 Oct 2009, 08:46

Love your new avatar Stempy

I have a Strat exactly like the one in the picture. Painted in Lake Placid Blue

I believe Fender painted a lot of Strats in automotive paint and colours.

Back on topic...

I find myself with a small to-do list at this time. It'll no doubt grow as the days go by

Currently:

V6

Crusie Control
Exhaust
Rear Arm Bearings

Activa

New Radiator

All bits needed are in stock, no jobs are yet urgent so can be done as and when.

addo · Post by **addo** » 07 Oct 2009, 08:54

I've got a L.P. blue one, too. Left handed, with gold hardware.

The aircon thing - I am wondering what the few proper "fridgies" on the forum here, have to say about receiver/drier replacement. As a hack mechanic, it would seem logical to think that after ten-odd years of usage, replacing the drier during a major A/C overhaul could be a step in the right direction.

MJM · Post by **MJM** » 07 Oct 2009, 13:51

The drier on most refrigeration/aircon systems has to work hard for the first few hours of operation. Its main function during this time is to absorb any moisture and filter out any solid foreign particles in the system that have escaped the vacuum process. In theory, if the system stays sealed then there will be no more moisture to “dry” and the particles to be filtered will come wear in the moving parts. The receiver is a store for liquid refrigerant and acts as a reservoir to cope with the fluctuation in demand on the system. (Think of the difference in heat load between returning to the car on a hot day when the leather seats are at bum burning temperature and using the aircon to aid demisting when its cool enough to want the seat heaters on!). I haven’t “yet” cut an automotive rec/drier apart to see exactly how they are constructed but I know from experience that the small 5 to 15 gramme ones I work with are capable of handling 2 or 3 re-gassings without problem. This is on systems with hermetic compressors where it is also important to protect the motor windings from moisture. (The oil and water can react with the motor winding insulation).

If the aircon system has been damaged, corroded/broken condenser etc, then it will contain wet atmospheric air. In this case, in my opinion, the rec/drier should be changed as a matter of course. If it has lost some efficiency over a few years due to loss of a proportion of its gas charge then I wouldn’t bother. By the time the filter is clogged with particles, most of which would be compressor swarf, the compressor would be “shot” anyway.
If there were any doubt about the history of the vehicle and the aircon was broken then I would also change the drier. The Xantia system test pressures go as high as 400+psi and the thought of that being applied to an old rec/drier that has near rusted through due to a neglected broken system doesn’t appeal to me.

PS son has a Strat that colour, a black Rickenbacker, a Fretking? two acoustics (one electric) and a mandolin. He’s now moved out so we can move about the house and hear things again!

(As an aside I keep looking at the extra car space on the drive and imagining an Activa filling it!)

Stempy, is the pink headlamp washer timer the one by the screenwash tank behind the front bumper? (series 2)

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 07 Oct 2009, 15:01

Firstly, I don't actually have a blue Strat, though I used to have a white one. I now have a LAG (amongst others) which is a French made guitar in a superstrat stylee and dare I say better than the Strat. The blue Strat was the only choice of guitar in the avatar builder. However, the cartoon version of me is scarily accurate. The black Lab is also slightly inaccurate as mine only has three legs!

Secondly, the pink timer relay is in the engine compartment fuse box on mine.