Zx 1.9 d clutch help info

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radar
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Zx 1.9 d clutch help info

Post by radar »

finally got round to fitting a new QH (valeo) full clutch assembly in today
rule one throw haynes manual as far as you can !!!
my problems are
1 I thought the release bearing was incorrect.. it looked same mounting but where the bearing (original) looked like a stepped mushroom the new one was exactly the same but reversed as the mushroom was up to the plastic mount and ... what I am trying to say is that instead of a wide area to press on the fingers it was only a narrow edge, took it to motor factors and he said it was right and compared it with another ???? any body encountered this
2. the rev counter has decided not to work
I removed the probe tdc sensor on clutch swap and on replacement it doesnt want to work, I have cleaned the contacts checked the wiring plugs , is there a specified distance that the probe should be enntered ?? going off old marks but still no joy
3. after 150,000 miles the clutch was only slightly worn and no heat cracks in either p plate or flywheel, slight wear grooves on the fingers but not as bad as I was expecting, the clutch cable must be stretched as no difference really in pedal (just tried original cable to compare . new cable yet to be fitted in boot)
the gearbox drain plug casing split on retightening ( thankfully a Belzona e-metal repair has worked)
os outer cv boot got caught in removal on its edge and a slight nick has now started to leak (another day ASAP)
4. on stripping when the zx was raised in the air and trying to turn the steering lock to lock (with the steering lock off) it was hard work ... or impossible.. as soon as you let go it would spin round to straight, you cannot tell me thats not right
tried from the road tyres and from the steering wheel still did it
is there a fault appearing ?? steering is fine when driving
are the front road spring bearings siezing up or is the rack at fault (I need new track rod ends - not worn- but boots perished so maybe when I disconnect the rack I can test those bearings (as now and again there is a spring noise on full lock sometimes)
are well Happy Easter
if it aint broke dont fix it... my new motto
CU
RADAR
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Radar (is it a M*A*S*H co-incidence [:D]) -
To my knowledge the Haynes are written for LHD species, which in this instance is no help for you. But do'nt throw away. Even with the wellknown Haynes shortcoming of details, you may suddenly need it, when disassembling a part, to recognize correct orientation of bits.
1+3) I also thought something was wrong, having only a circular edge pressing on the clutch release spring fingers. This seems to be standard, since it's the same construction on both CX & BX clutches I've seen. When worn, this bearing edge has made a rather deep score in the fingers, some even had the tips broken off. This makes the release bearing bind in the score, when it's pressed against the fingers, causing a heavy clutch pedal. A wider release bearing surface (like the mushroom shape you mention) would prolong the life on the fingers. I simply can not figure out why this construction, except you need to buy a new clutch again after some 150 Kmiles. I want to sell [8D] clutches.
It's wellknown on RHD BX'es that the clutch cable is a bugger (like the speedo cable). Seems the cause is the odd bends on the cable, that does not exists on LHD species, which I'm used to.
Another wellknown bugger on the RHD BX, is the pedal box getting loose, literally flowing around or bend into the engine cavity, because of weak body sheeting in this area. This resembles same indications as clutch or cable problems.
If I'm suggesting correct, these buggers may very well be inherited to the ZX, given the Citroen engineers profound intake of local produced liquid [:o)][:o)].
2) measure ohmic resistance in the probe. It's a standard inductive sensor - low ohmic, between say 25 - 200 ohms expected. Obviously something sane. A short or open reading means defective. If OK, a battery charger (simple type, not electronic) connected in series with a 100 ohm resistor, instead of the probe, should give you a stable reading of 6000revs to test the meter & circuit. This is because the 50Hz is double-rectified in the charger to give only positive pulsecharges, resembling a frequency of 100Hz, which makes 100pulses/sec x 60 = 6000pulses pr minute, resembling 6000revs/minute.
3) [:0] NEVER overdo any bolt which goes into light-alloys. This goes on alloy sumps, alloy engine blocks, alloy engine heads, alloy suspension details, - ANY alloy part ! That's also why a new CU-seal ring allways is specified, when the sump bolt has been removed.
Here you really need Haynes, given the bolt torques. Alloys will NEVER forgive you, like steel tends to do. But you've allready experienced this [B)]
4) Haynes may in fact be at help here, at least to uncover the construction principles, which is emperical to understand any problems. Just remember that normal operation is allways considered with normal load (weight) on wheels.
mipster
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Post by mipster »

I recently changed the clutch in my TD xantia after 190,000 miles. I also could see little wear on the plate and put it down to the springs wearing rather than the friction material.
regarding the release bearing my replacement (from Andyspares) was identical to the original and had the stepped mushroom shape. No wear on the fingers at all.
Regarding the steering on the ZX I changed the strut bearing on my other half's ZX last weekend and even with a bearing that had total crumbled (literally - I removed bits) she could turn the wheel with the engine off. The main sympton of the bearing failure was steering that felt imprecise.
mipster
Dave Burns
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Post by Dave Burns »

The sensor has to be very close to the flywheel for it to work correctly, push it in until it touches the flywheel and then back it off a thou or so.
Its proper name is a Hall effect device and works in conjunction with magnetism and the close proximity of a moving ferrous mass with a non continuous surface, very similar to the ABS sensors.
The tacho recently packed up on my ZX td and coinsided with some other work on the engine, after the usual time consuming fault finding rigmarole it turned out to be the busey little PCB on the tacho head in the instrument cluster, swaped the litttle sod for a spare and all is hunky dory again.
Such coincidences just add loads of time to the fault finding, you go about it wondering what the hell you've done to it, and in the end its been nowt to do with it.
Mipster, whats all this mushroom shape tackle supposed to be, the Xantia td clutch is a pull clutch with the release bearing secured to the pressure plate diaphragm, nothing like a 19D clutch.
If you have one of these its not standard for your car, which means the gearbox probably isn't for a td either, not that it matters that much but the td box has much longer legs to take advantage of the extra power, it also helps with economy too.
Dave
mipster
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Post by mipster »

Dave,
I've got the right clutch/gearbox (known the both the xantia and ZX since new). I hadn't realised that the 1.9 has a different clutch and took musroom shaped to describe the release bearing. Think of a cross section of a mushroom with the stalk removed, yep, nothing like my bearing but I spotted a similarity :)
I'm expecting to have the clutch to do on the ZX while we have it so at least I won't be puzzled when it all looks different.
I've found that the new clutch increases fuel consumption since I aren't tiptoeing around to avoid it slipping anymore :)
thaks for the correction and apologies,
mipster
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