hi all
more help needed please, my 97 2.1td (xantia) has been running without a fault for almost two months now so an m.o.t. failure was a cert. it failed on the suspension being too stiff, i.e. duff spheres (m.o.t. carried out at citroen dealer).
i was then quoted an telephone number sized amount for replacing all four. i have decided to replace them myself can anyone tell me how?
my haynes manual (which i think was published by citroen dealers to put home mechanics off) does not mention how to change the spheres without removing the struts!
please help.
also i have recently had my drive belt tensioner and pulley replaced by the dealer and after 3000 miles its as bad as ever. has anyone else had this problem and what was its cause?
why did i buy a citroen? (and why do i stil love it?)
thanks steve
changing spheres
Moderator: RichardW
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stevenlizuk
- Posts: 112
- Joined: 14 May 2002, 06:01
- Location: United Kingdom
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Steve,
Firstly the cost of a sphere replacement ex Andyspares (I don't work for them incidentally, it's just that they think like I do & as a result, I deal with them) [:D] is about 80 pounds for spheres I think you'll find.
Before you start, buy a proper sphere removal tool; it'll pay for itself in no time. Andys sell one as do Pleiades.
Doing a sphere job in the UK is a bit different to where I am due to the salt they put on the roads but basically, fronts are a simple depressurize suspension and screw off. Rear are the opposite; full height, slacken using the sphere remover, then collapse & screw off & fit new ones tightening by hand only same as you would an oil filter.
Before you ask, the reason for the full pressure is due to the rears being capable of screwing the rear cylinders off their pipes and the weight holds them in place, however, be sure to turn them no more than 1/4 of a turn before you collapse them to remove the rest of the way by hand. Preferrably do this job over a pit or on ramps or axle stands for obvious safety reasons.
Common sense & the ability to ask for help if required is a pre requisite for working on Cits. You end up with a top car which if DIY service & repairs are done are the cheapest car in the World to keep on the road.
That's coming from someone 3 1/2 hours drive away from the nearest Citroen dealership/repairer and one with 6 Cits in the family [:D][:D]
Alan S
Firstly the cost of a sphere replacement ex Andyspares (I don't work for them incidentally, it's just that they think like I do & as a result, I deal with them) [:D] is about 80 pounds for spheres I think you'll find.
Before you start, buy a proper sphere removal tool; it'll pay for itself in no time. Andys sell one as do Pleiades.
Doing a sphere job in the UK is a bit different to where I am due to the salt they put on the roads but basically, fronts are a simple depressurize suspension and screw off. Rear are the opposite; full height, slacken using the sphere remover, then collapse & screw off & fit new ones tightening by hand only same as you would an oil filter.
Before you ask, the reason for the full pressure is due to the rears being capable of screwing the rear cylinders off their pipes and the weight holds them in place, however, be sure to turn them no more than 1/4 of a turn before you collapse them to remove the rest of the way by hand. Preferrably do this job over a pit or on ramps or axle stands for obvious safety reasons.
Common sense & the ability to ask for help if required is a pre requisite for working on Cits. You end up with a top car which if DIY service & repairs are done are the cheapest car in the World to keep on the road.
That's coming from someone 3 1/2 hours drive away from the nearest Citroen dealership/repairer and one with 6 Cits in the family [:D][:D]
Alan S
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JohnD
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Hi Steve - I'll second what Alan says about sphere changing. They are easy providing you have that tool for undoing the rears. If you use the search facility, you'll find a description for making a removal tool, but for around £30 you'll get the real thing. I'm curious about the drive belt tensioner and pulley. Why did you want it replaced, and why, having had it done, is it "as bad as ever"?
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stevenlizuk
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hi john
the tensioner was still working well enough but the pulley was loose and there was a lot of noise, espescially when the engine was at idle.
i had noticed the noise previously but couldnt figure it out. the car was in for a routine cam-belt change when i was informed of the problem. both the tensioner and the pulley were replaced.
three thousand miles later and the noise has returned.
hi also dave
is it worth replacing the accumulator and anti-sink spheres also as the car does take around 10 secs to get leveled from starting after being off for a long time, but if i go back to it and start it after an hour or so its ready to roll straight away?
thanks
steve
the tensioner was still working well enough but the pulley was loose and there was a lot of noise, espescially when the engine was at idle.
i had noticed the noise previously but couldnt figure it out. the car was in for a routine cam-belt change when i was informed of the problem. both the tensioner and the pulley were replaced.
three thousand miles later and the noise has returned.
hi also dave
is it worth replacing the accumulator and anti-sink spheres also as the car does take around 10 secs to get leveled from starting after being off for a long time, but if i go back to it and start it after an hour or so its ready to roll straight away?
thanks
steve
Steve -
Even on your description, I doubt the pulley (idler wheel) is the cause of noise, unless something is rotten in the kingdom of Citroens.
I mean if the idler should start being noisy after short service life, it's either VERY bad quality (it's a simple wide-body roller bearing), or the workmanship on the garage is VERY bad quality (too high belt tension, or a drop of oil into still mounted OLD idler bearing, to make it silent for a while ?).
Have the engine checked at an independent garage, which by friends or family members, is known as well reputated.
[:0] Do'nt tell the garage, that the idler wheel & belt allready has been changed lately [:0]
[8D] Just tell them you're concerned about the noise [8D]
Then see what conclusions you get, and make your own conclusions. Even drop a line here with the new conclusions you get.
As to the slow rise. This is to my knowledge from other Xantia owners, quite normal after the car has been left for longish time.
Start by replacing the wheel spheres. Then if the car makes the habit of sudden height drops on start, you also need to replace the anti-sink sphere, for the axle (car end) that drops. There's no sense to replace, for the sake of just-to-be-sure.
Even on your description, I doubt the pulley (idler wheel) is the cause of noise, unless something is rotten in the kingdom of Citroens.
I mean if the idler should start being noisy after short service life, it's either VERY bad quality (it's a simple wide-body roller bearing), or the workmanship on the garage is VERY bad quality (too high belt tension, or a drop of oil into still mounted OLD idler bearing, to make it silent for a while ?).
Have the engine checked at an independent garage, which by friends or family members, is known as well reputated.
[:0] Do'nt tell the garage, that the idler wheel & belt allready has been changed lately [:0]
[8D] Just tell them you're concerned about the noise [8D]
Then see what conclusions you get, and make your own conclusions. Even drop a line here with the new conclusions you get.
As to the slow rise. This is to my knowledge from other Xantia owners, quite normal after the car has been left for longish time.
Start by replacing the wheel spheres. Then if the car makes the habit of sudden height drops on start, you also need to replace the anti-sink sphere, for the axle (car end) that drops. There's no sense to replace, for the sake of just-to-be-sure.
A car with a healthy accumulator sphere will take a little while to pressurise the sphere. if the sphere has failed it will not - sounds curious but think about it. The healthy sphere will re-chargethe suspension as it drops until it is nearly exhaused - a failed sphere will not and as there is no gas to compress it will apprear to charge very quickly.
Later xantias with the 6 + 2 pump will take longer to pressurise as the suspension runs off only 2 cylinders in the pump.
jeremy
Later xantias with the 6 + 2 pump will take longer to pressurise as the suspension runs off only 2 cylinders in the pump.
jeremy
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stevenlizuk
- Posts: 112
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hi all again
progress report. fitted spheres on all four corners (after snapping new £30 strap wrench resorted to home made device fashioned from mole grips and bike chain), car rides like new again and no hesitation between starting and stop light going out any more.
thanks to all for the help!
next week i am going to replace the anti-sink and accumulator just cos i'll feel better if i do.
thanks again
steve
progress report. fitted spheres on all four corners (after snapping new £30 strap wrench resorted to home made device fashioned from mole grips and bike chain), car rides like new again and no hesitation between starting and stop light going out any more.
thanks to all for the help!
next week i am going to replace the anti-sink and accumulator just cos i'll feel better if i do.
thanks again
steve