mention but this may vary from model to model/petrol to diesel etc?
The waterpump would be the first thought as the area of the engine sounds
about right for this. The water splitter with the various pipes Paul describes
in only ever metal on the cars I've worked on and I'd be very surprised if
it manages to leak although if later models have plastic one's there's every
possibility this could be your problem!!
As far as a decent guide is concerned, there's some brilliant pictures and
easy to follow description on www.club-xm.com - I've a strong feeling the
author (Dean) will no doubt be perfectly happy if it helps anyone here
although I'll mention posting a link for it here!
This is covering a petrol 2.0 XU engine which is largely the same as the
XUD diesel in Citroen's range of shared powerplants.
The water pump is the mid toothed pulley on the left and is held with 5-7Dean on club-xm wrote:2.0 8v timing belt renewal, N/A and Turbo
This is one of the easiest timing belts to do of all XM's and with a little practice can be done no problems in under 2 hours, if its your first time leave a good half day though.
The turbocharged and normally aspirated versions have the same head and block, the unit pictured happens to be a stripped down N/A but both are the same.
Here is the unit in question, from the bottom up is the crank pulley, water pump, accentric tensioner and cam sprocket, the crank and cam are locked in place.
You can probably see the tensioner is held in place by one allen headed bolt, it is always best to discard it and replace with a standard 13mm headed bolt, it is
much easier to undo and more importantly do up tightly with a spanner than an allen key.
The usual flywheel locking point pictured here connot be used on an auto transmission equipped car, there is no location hole in the flywheel of an auto.
Here are some close up shots of the locking points at the timimg end of the engine, this is the cam viewed from behind the engine
This is the crank timing point without the 1/4" square bar in place, ignore the white marks, some Muppet has already been in there with the tippex, which is why it was a tooth out when i got it
basicaly you need to jack the front drivers side of the car and remove the road wheel, wheel arch liner and aux drive belts, you will find it much easier to remove the top
O/S engine mount too but its not essential.
Remove the 2 bolts (1 13mm at the back and one 16mm at the front) and lift the cover off, now you have to remove the bottom pulley, you can argue amongst yourselfs
about the best way to do this but i have always locked the flywheel through the top access hole on the bell housing (auto) and with a 3ft bar the bolt always comes off ok
but you have to have the front end high enough off the ground to get some swing on the bar.
With the bottom pulley removed
You are now ready to go, undo the tensioner and rotate it to relieve the tension, and slide off the belt, discard it, its not worth using the same belt, tensioner or water pump.
Remove the water pump and clean the mating face of the block, when refitting it smear a little RTV or vasaline on both sides of the gasket.
When refitting the belt make sure the longest run is tight with both the pulley and crank locked, turn the tensioner by hand and do up its fixing bolt this should leave the belt
tight enough that it cannot be pulled off the cam pulley but not so tight that when the car is started the belt groans, a slight bit of slack is allowed when the engine is cold,
don't forget as the engine warms up it expands and pulls the belt tight,
refitting is the Haynes reversal of removal but leave the top timing cover off for the first few miles because the belt may stretch and need re tensioning.
Also use a thread lock compound on the bottom pulley bolt on reassembly.
small 10mm bolts. Make certain the face is scrupulously clean for a good
mating face and watertight seal.
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=412
Andrew
