Clutch/Bearing/Driveshaft/Suspension Trouble VSX
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Hi Colin,
Going back to the Hydractive problem, have you checked that the rear electrovalve is working correctly by listenming to it?
Lie down at the back and cock your ear in the vicinity of the hydractive sphere. Get a helper to open a door and listen for a click from the valve, followed by a low hum. Ask the helper to close the door. The low hum should carry on for another 30s and then the valve should audibly click off.
The front one will do the same and as it seems to be working, use it as a reference to know how they sound.
If the rear is not playing, you'll need to do the diode mod as a first action. Check it's connected up though as we found Vince's to be disconnected for some reason...
In soft mode the rear should be really soft, sofrt of feather-bed soft. In hard, there is not a lot of movement but it should not be rock-hard.
Let us know if you can't find the post with the diode mod in it. It was originally posted by Simon (Mandrake) and is complete with very good photos.
Going back to the Hydractive problem, have you checked that the rear electrovalve is working correctly by listenming to it?
Lie down at the back and cock your ear in the vicinity of the hydractive sphere. Get a helper to open a door and listen for a click from the valve, followed by a low hum. Ask the helper to close the door. The low hum should carry on for another 30s and then the valve should audibly click off.
The front one will do the same and as it seems to be working, use it as a reference to know how they sound.
If the rear is not playing, you'll need to do the diode mod as a first action. Check it's connected up though as we found Vince's to be disconnected for some reason...
In soft mode the rear should be really soft, sofrt of feather-bed soft. In hard, there is not a lot of movement but it should not be rock-hard.
Let us know if you can't find the post with the diode mod in it. It was originally posted by Simon (Mandrake) and is complete with very good photos.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Hi Jim
The front valve is definitely making a low hum and then a loud clunk as it shuts down however the rear although humming appears to have a very soft click on shut down infact the front one nearly masks the rear
I know the Acc sphere is good as that was changed shortly after i got the car.Its only recently that the rear is hard to push down when i first got it it was really soft now its like trying to push down a real big coiled spring
Although i must admit to the bucking bronco being there from the start although it has got worse recently originally put it down to sticky/siezed HC linkage and did seem better once id given it a good spray.
And as luck is not on my side took o/s/f wheel off to have another look at the brakes binding and snapped a wheel bolt
Colin
The front valve is definitely making a low hum and then a loud clunk as it shuts down however the rear although humming appears to have a very soft click on shut down infact the front one nearly masks the rear
I know the Acc sphere is good as that was changed shortly after i got the car.Its only recently that the rear is hard to push down when i first got it it was really soft now its like trying to push down a real big coiled spring
Although i must admit to the bucking bronco being there from the start although it has got worse recently originally put it down to sticky/siezed HC linkage and did seem better once id given it a good spray.
And as luck is not on my side took o/s/f wheel off to have another look at the brakes binding and snapped a wheel bolt
Colin
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Hi Jim
Have had a good look at the diode fix posts and have found This Topic
It would appear that Simon was sufferring from similar problems 10th post down
First port of call will be to obtain the diode fix best to get 2 sets
tried the link from Uncle Buck but shows up as not valid any ideas as to the sellers ID would be most welcome
Colin
Have had a good look at the diode fix posts and have found This Topic
It would appear that Simon was sufferring from similar problems 10th post down
First port of call will be to obtain the diode fix best to get 2 sets
tried the link from Uncle Buck but shows up as not valid any ideas as to the sellers ID would be most welcome
Colin
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That's a dead cert diagnosis of a duff doide then Colin, it makes the electrovalve hum but either not click at all or just a very soft "woolly" click like yours . You need to do the diode mod. It's the positive, determined clicks like the front one you need to hear!admiral51 wrote: The front valve is definitely making a low hum and then a loud clunk as it shuts down however the rear although humming appears to have a very soft click on shut down infact the front one nearly masks the rear
Sorry to hear about the wheel bolt These cars do like to fight us don't they
Jim
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Ahh, you nean Roy at eCrofting. Like one of these?admiral51 wrote: tried the link from Uncle Buck but shows up as not valid any ideas as to the sellers ID would be most welcome
I had one on my Activa, bought one for my V6 and ended up fitting to Vince's car
Well recommended.
Jim
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Have just driven the car again without actually fixing the brakes but time is not on my side at the moment needs must
Now i did manage to free the brakes off a little and it seemed to make a difference early this morning not so much of a judder but having applied the handbrake when moving off the judder was back with avengence
I can also hear a low grumble which gets louder when turning but disappears under braking.Could i have knackered the handbrake cables whilst i was removing the centre console Think some of you will know how
I vaguley remember readfing that the grumble would be caused by the front pads
Any tips on cleaning the calipers are they as easy to do as the rears and apart from the flexi hose needing to come off how do i remove the caliper from its swivel pin
See a total novice really
Cheers
Colin
Now i did manage to free the brakes off a little and it seemed to make a difference early this morning not so much of a judder but having applied the handbrake when moving off the judder was back with avengence
I can also hear a low grumble which gets louder when turning but disappears under braking.Could i have knackered the handbrake cables whilst i was removing the centre console Think some of you will know how
I vaguley remember readfing that the grumble would be caused by the front pads
Any tips on cleaning the calipers are they as easy to do as the rears and apart from the flexi hose needing to come off how do i remove the caliper from its swivel pin
See a total novice really
Cheers
Colin
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Absolutely Malcolm. I'll bet they are cracked, full of rust and stiffer than my shoulder was on Saturday Colin, the cables are not hard to change; one of the easier jobs.
[hijack]
Malcolm, Will you be about in the next couple if weeks to accept a seat delivery? [/hijack]
[hijack]
Malcolm, Will you be about in the next couple if weeks to accept a seat delivery? [/hijack]
Jim
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Colin
your not going to confront the MOT tester who failed to spot binnding brakes then, if they are binnding that much the make the car judder, they must nearly be full on,
i belive brakes are one of the items they should PASS/FAIL corectly,
hi jack whooops i mean Sir Jim
only if your not making a special outting/trip to bring them all the way down hear hunny
much ass grassy ass
kind regards
malcolm
your not going to confront the MOT tester who failed to spot binnding brakes then, if they are binnding that much the make the car judder, they must nearly be full on,
i belive brakes are one of the items they should PASS/FAIL corectly,
hi jack whooops i mean Sir Jim
only if your not making a special outting/trip to bring them all the way down hear hunny
much ass grassy ass
kind regards
malcolm
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Hi Malcolm,citronut wrote:hi jack whooops i mean Sir Jim
only if your not making a special outting/trip to bring them all the way down hear hunny
Well, I'll be coming to see your good self and that's a good enough reason and I'll also be calling in on John (Jgra1) and if it all comes off, a third port of call so it'll be a generally productive and enjoyable day Looking forward to it!
Jim
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Hi All
I have now driven the car again and found things much improved
If i apply the handbrake and try to pull away once the handbrake is released then i get a judder but if if i stop and dont use the handbrake just the foot brake then the judder is hardly noticeable
My feelings on this problem are based on the fact that today i also had the pleasure to drive a Vectra of some denomination that was also a petrol
Now i also got a judder from this vehicle when i pulled away much the same as i get in the VSX when i have not used the handbrake previous.Thinking back when i had the escort i also had a judder when pulling away so is it possible that my constant driving of diesel powered cars and lorries is causing me to be too light on the throttle pedal when moving from stationary hence the judder/lurch (not quite a kangaroo jump )
As an experiment i gave the VSX a bit of revs (about 1500) and i dont get the judder
I can only assume that once the handbrake test had been carried out and the front brake test started and resistance from the handbrake was broken once the rolling road started and the front brakes did do their job.
I am now pretty sure its the handbrake cables that are at fault probably not helped by my cheats way of removing the centre console and also my inability to drive a petrol engined car properly
I would still like to replace front disks and pads along with the handbrake cables .Thanks Jim for the advice, vaguely remember looong time back telling you they werent as abd as the BOL sounds
More importantly whilst im doing the front brake overhaul would like to give the calipers a bit of an overhaul so any tips hints more than welcome
Oh yes as to Sir hijack no problem keeps the post going
Cheers
Colin
PS apologies for the use of profanities in this particular reply
I have now driven the car again and found things much improved
If i apply the handbrake and try to pull away once the handbrake is released then i get a judder but if if i stop and dont use the handbrake just the foot brake then the judder is hardly noticeable
My feelings on this problem are based on the fact that today i also had the pleasure to drive a Vectra of some denomination that was also a petrol
Now i also got a judder from this vehicle when i pulled away much the same as i get in the VSX when i have not used the handbrake previous.Thinking back when i had the escort i also had a judder when pulling away so is it possible that my constant driving of diesel powered cars and lorries is causing me to be too light on the throttle pedal when moving from stationary hence the judder/lurch (not quite a kangaroo jump )
As an experiment i gave the VSX a bit of revs (about 1500) and i dont get the judder
Not yet Malcolm not until i find the exact cause of the problem but i do agree with you in the notion that brakes should PASS/FAIL correctly and that the test should be thorough and fair.As for this particular MOT it failed on the rear brakes at first a decision i can only agree withcitronut wrote:Colin
your not going to confront the MOT tester who failed to spot binnding brakes then, if they are binnding that much the make the car judder, they must nearly be full on,
i belive brakes are one of the items they should PASS/FAIL corectly,
I can only assume that once the handbrake test had been carried out and the front brake test started and resistance from the handbrake was broken once the rolling road started and the front brakes did do their job.
I am now pretty sure its the handbrake cables that are at fault probably not helped by my cheats way of removing the centre console and also my inability to drive a petrol engined car properly
I would still like to replace front disks and pads along with the handbrake cables .Thanks Jim for the advice, vaguely remember looong time back telling you they werent as abd as the BOL sounds
More importantly whilst im doing the front brake overhaul would like to give the calipers a bit of an overhaul so any tips hints more than welcome
Oh yes as to Sir hijack no problem keeps the post going
Cheers
Colin
PS apologies for the use of profanities in this particular reply
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Colin,
it sounds like a malgimation of lots of different causes. I had a similar problem with my xantia estate wheel wobble particularly the OSF.
so I bought new wheels that calmed it down because the originals were buckled, I was told by the forum members that it might be the OS driveshaft bearing, I checked that and it had no play in it even with it off the car.
my lower engine mount (donut) was badly worn and I had this replaced, my OSF lower wishbone rear rubber mount was also damaged the wishbone stubb had broken away from the bonded sleve in the centre of the bush, it would appear that this was where the original violent wobble was comming from, only I had missed it. in the end I replaced the driveshaft and comparing the old with the new exchange unit the wear was actually not in the intermeadiate shaft bearing at all but within the outer CV joint that sits behind the wheel. the difference in movement between the new and old CV joint on the end of the shaft was quite suprising.
I hope you find the cause of your wobble mine perplexed me for quite some time.
best wishes Nigel.
it sounds like a malgimation of lots of different causes. I had a similar problem with my xantia estate wheel wobble particularly the OSF.
so I bought new wheels that calmed it down because the originals were buckled, I was told by the forum members that it might be the OS driveshaft bearing, I checked that and it had no play in it even with it off the car.
my lower engine mount (donut) was badly worn and I had this replaced, my OSF lower wishbone rear rubber mount was also damaged the wishbone stubb had broken away from the bonded sleve in the centre of the bush, it would appear that this was where the original violent wobble was comming from, only I had missed it. in the end I replaced the driveshaft and comparing the old with the new exchange unit the wear was actually not in the intermeadiate shaft bearing at all but within the outer CV joint that sits behind the wheel. the difference in movement between the new and old CV joint on the end of the shaft was quite suprising.
I hope you find the cause of your wobble mine perplexed me for quite some time.
best wishes Nigel.
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New addition Citroen C5 2.0 HDi Exclusive Hatch purchased 09/12/2016 with 83K on the clock.