1996 Xantia 19TD LX (so non-hydractive), 55K.
I have an irritating metallic rattle/light clunk which I have tracked down to the NSF wheel/brake/suspension area. It's more noticable on fairly smooth road surfaces with minor undulations.
When I bounce the car at NSF I can feel the clunk transmitted through the top of the turret. The noise started a couple of weeks ago when it became apparent that spheres needed changing - which I've now done.
Wheel bearing seems ok, as do all the bushes on lower arm and roll-bar. However, with car jacked up at front and suspension set to low, it is fairly easy to lift the wheel/hub/suspension up and down by hand, with no resistance for about the first inch of travel. Is this normal?
I'm going to check the bottom ball joint this evening, other than that it would seem to point to the strut/turret.
Anyone had any similar experiences?
<Paxman Power>
P.S. Changed all 6 spheres using the homemade threaded rod clamp tool technique - no problems at all. I would recommend it.
Xantia TD Rattling Front Suspension
Moderator: RichardW
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Paxman Power
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 01 Apr 2003, 03:11
- Location: Scotchland
- My Cars:
Paxman Power,
Hello mate, i have what sounds like exactly the same problem with my Xantia. I first noticed it months ago, so like you, i checked all the obvious stuff but found nothing. Recently, it seems to have got much worse, so as i'm doing an oil and filter change this weekend and a few other little jobs, i will have another look and let you know what i find in case it helps. I do think Alexx is onto something with his suggestion; i have heard of this before. Drop links/bushes look dead easy to change though!!
Cheers, Rich. (Xantia Exclusive HDi)
Hello mate, i have what sounds like exactly the same problem with my Xantia. I first noticed it months ago, so like you, i checked all the obvious stuff but found nothing. Recently, it seems to have got much worse, so as i'm doing an oil and filter change this weekend and a few other little jobs, i will have another look and let you know what i find in case it helps. I do think Alexx is onto something with his suggestion; i have heard of this before. Drop links/bushes look dead easy to change though!!
Cheers, Rich. (Xantia Exclusive HDi)
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Paxman Power
- Posts: 17
- Joined: 01 Apr 2003, 03:11
- Location: Scotchland
- My Cars:
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by alexx</i>
It's almost certanly the roll-bar drop link (one or both).
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It seems you are right!
Having checked and discounted the bottom ball joint, I installed the wife inside the vehicle whilst I wiggled various bits of the suspension until the errant rattle made itself heard!
Whilst I was unable to shift the nut at the bottom end of the link, I managed quite easily to disconnect it at the top thus discovering that the bottom joint on the link is the cause of my rattle. Time to replace them both methinks.
Only question now is - which one of the 4 different links does my car have? Anyone know how you can tell the difference?
<Paxman Power>
It's almost certanly the roll-bar drop link (one or both).
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
It seems you are right!
Having checked and discounted the bottom ball joint, I installed the wife inside the vehicle whilst I wiggled various bits of the suspension until the errant rattle made itself heard!
Whilst I was unable to shift the nut at the bottom end of the link, I managed quite easily to disconnect it at the top thus discovering that the bottom joint on the link is the cause of my rattle. Time to replace them both methinks.
Only question now is - which one of the 4 different links does my car have? Anyone know how you can tell the difference?
<Paxman Power>
-
Dave Burns
- Posts: 1915
- Joined: 14 May 2001, 05:30
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
I was plagued by these poxy things for the first couple of months after christmas, ones fitted from A/s didn't last to long as the rubber perished and split alarmingly early, went through a puddle on the way to work and a week later the knocking started.
Took the offending link off and sure enough it had water inside it, decided to get one from a local supplier, on inspection it had to be returned bofore fitting as the top joint was allready loose.
Got replacement and fitted it, lasted about a fortnight so got that replaced and had two more since then.
The last time it started knocking I had a look where the housing is crimped around the ball, went round it with a hammer gently tapping it over a bit more, this took the play out of it and stiffened the joint up better than when it was new, fresh grease and rubbers back on jobs a good'en, that was a few thousand miles ago.
Some car components made by these pattern wallers are pure crap.
Can't be done on all drop links, depends on how the end of the housing has been crimped or swaged over, it could'nt be done with the A/s link.
It used to be that you either needed a link with 10mm threads for early cars up to >12/94 IIRC or 12mm threads for 1/95> onwards, now there are others in there and the difference is not clear as to why.
You should require the 1/95>12mm version though on a 96'er, the actual length is the same as the early 10mm ones.
You might find it usefull to invest in a good nut splitter to get these off unless you are fond of hacksaws, Sykes pickavant make a busines like one.
Dave
Took the offending link off and sure enough it had water inside it, decided to get one from a local supplier, on inspection it had to be returned bofore fitting as the top joint was allready loose.
Got replacement and fitted it, lasted about a fortnight so got that replaced and had two more since then.
The last time it started knocking I had a look where the housing is crimped around the ball, went round it with a hammer gently tapping it over a bit more, this took the play out of it and stiffened the joint up better than when it was new, fresh grease and rubbers back on jobs a good'en, that was a few thousand miles ago.
Some car components made by these pattern wallers are pure crap.
Can't be done on all drop links, depends on how the end of the housing has been crimped or swaged over, it could'nt be done with the A/s link.
It used to be that you either needed a link with 10mm threads for early cars up to >12/94 IIRC or 12mm threads for 1/95> onwards, now there are others in there and the difference is not clear as to why.
You should require the 1/95>12mm version though on a 96'er, the actual length is the same as the early 10mm ones.
You might find it usefull to invest in a good nut splitter to get these off unless you are fond of hacksaws, Sykes pickavant make a busines like one.
Dave