Xantia v6 timing belt change

[xantia_v6]

I changed the timing belt on my mk1 V6 today.

It took about 6 hours, but I am sure I could knock an hour off next time.

The timing belt had done 85,000 miles, and the auxilliary belt had done the same (or maybe 144,000 if it wasn't changed last time). The old timing belt was in perfect condition, even the printed part number looked new. The aux belt however was totally perished, and in one place was split through the cords over 20% of its width.

The old water pump showed some signs of weepage from the seal, and I think it was not previously replaced.

I replaced the timing belt idlers and tensioner with the later style item. It turns out that the later style tensioner doesn't fit with the earlier water pump, as the early water pump has a cast lug for the tensioner pivot.

All is not lost however, as the early pump (which seems to be more readily available at discounted price) can be converted to the later style by sawing off the lug.

The engine is now a bit quieter at idle (less tensioner bearing rattle), but a bit whiny when revved. I am hoping that will settle down as the new bearing bed in.

I found that the RH engine mount had separated from the rubber, so I need to get a replacement and go back in later...

[CitroJim]

Well done Excellent work!

And in a good time too. I'm told that's nearly £1,000 to have done in a garage...

The later tensioner does, without doubt, make the job a whole lot easier

Which part of the engine mount had separated?

[xantia_v6]

I didn't think to take a photo of the mount, but the rubber block that takes the weight of the engine has separated from the top plate with the stud. I supposed it has happened when someone has jacked up the engine, or maybe the suspension lowered with something under the engine.

I can't see this being a particularly big problem, as gravity seems to hold everything in place quite wwll most of the time.

Any ideas as to which other cars use the same mount? I presume the Pug 406 V6 is the most likely candidate.

[Sid_the_Squid]

Impressive feat, with the engine in the car, it looks like a seriously hard procedure. Good Job

[CitroJim]

I'll take a stab and say the mount in question is the same as the 2.1TD and Activa. I will check.

As you say, most likely killed through and ill thought out engine jack up task. Often they rupture and spill their liquidy innards after such treatment.

Nope, they're unique to the V6 Part No. 1814 35 at £60 (eek!)

[xantia_v6]

It took about 6 hours, but I am sure I could knock an hour off next time.

I now know I can do it in 3 hours 8) .

I took the car for a run on Sunday, and was not happy with the whining noise from the timing belt, so I pulled it all apart again to check everything .

The belt was not obviously too tight, I could twist the long run through 45 degrees.

I did realise however that the new tensioner (cheap off t'internet) is not quite right, as the little indicator you use for setting the tension can be moved to any position with finger pressure . I think I probably set it too tight, I hope the belt was not damaged .

Looking at how it works, and pictures posted by Jim, I am pretty sure that the correct tension can be set without the indicator, by setting the notch on the plastic disk to the 10 o'clock position.

It would not work to just set the tension using the "twist test", as the spring in the tensioner can be well out of position and the belt twists just the same.

I did not quite get the car running before a "shower" came along and sent me indoors for the evening.

[Sid_the_Squid]

3 hours

Sir, I tip my hat to you.

[xantia_v6]

It was 2.5 hours to the point where it started raining, but is stopped again, so I popped on the Aux belt, connected up the ECU and started the engine with the upper timing covers and engine mount off. The engine is runnign sweetly again, and the whining noise from the belt is gone .

With the timing covers off you can see the tensioner working. The plastic ring bounces about 10 degrees either side of its static position at idle (due to the valve springs pushing the cams around). Above idle it all settles down again.

[CitroJim]

I fell a liittle foul of setting the tenioner and I know the problem you had there. My first practice run with the old belt went swimmingly and led me to a bit of false confidence as when I came to set the tension on the new belt I was abit over keen in rotating teh tensioner and it shot past the correct point. I think the error I made was trying to turn it a bit backwards as after a backward turn i could not then realign the marks. I conpletely relseaed the tensioner and started afresh. I tink i took the tensioner right off the block so the spring could go free and reset itself.

In the event it came good for me second time around, being careful to turn the tensioner only in the direction of the arrow on the plastic disc and not daring to go past the index marks.

This is the tensioner. According to my photo title, this shot was taken with the tension relieved so the index pointer at 10 o'clock may not be right.



Interesting to have seen the tensioner operating. In view of my difficulty and yours, In a bit I'll have my cam covers off and recheck the tension. Mine runs without the slightest trace of whine though so perhaps it's OK but best to check...

Seems to me a seem gauge would be good for 100% confidence...

[xantia_v6]

My guess of 10 oclock was proabably a bit early, it was more like 10:30. Anyway, I tried to get the static position about half way between the limits of the plastic wheel's travel. The dynamic movement at idle is well within the range that the plastic wheel can move.

Turning the adjuster too far anticlockwise does not (as far as I can see) over stress the spring, because there are 2 semi-independent eccentic mechanisms at work.

The first is the metal eccentric in the center that you adjust with a tool to set the working point, this one goes round through 360 degrees without a stop.

The second is the plastic wheel which rotates against the spring, easing the pressure on the belt by moving sideways as it rotates. The plastic wheel has stops which limit its travel to about 90 degrees.

So when you turn the inner eccentric too far, it suddenly releases the tension on the belt and spring, and the plastic wheel jumps to its relaxed position, but no harm is done.

The only problem with mine is the metal pointer (which I assume should be rivetted to the inner eccentric) is loose and points wherever you want it to.

[xantia_v6]

A couple of random hints for anyone else attempting this at home:

* The timing cover screws need a 7mm socket and ratchet

* Offset ring spanners in sizes of 13, 16 and 19mm are useful.

* The RH engine mount breaks easily if put under tension. Undo the nut on the top of the rubber block before taking the weight of the engine with a jack or hoist (I think mine was already broken, but no need to break yours).

* The camshafts have a boss that looks like it needs a special tool to fit to turn them while adjusting the timing. A 1/2" AF double hex socket (or probably ring spanner) seems to fit perfectly.

[Exhume.dk]

A couple of random hints for anyone else attempting this at home:

* The timing cover screws need a 7mm socket and ratchet

* Offset ring spanners in sizes of 13, 16 and 19mm are useful.

* The RH engine mount breaks easily if put under tension. Undo the nut on the top of the rubber block before taking the weight of the engine with a jack or hoist (I think mine was already broken, but no need to break yours).

* The camshafts have a boss that looks like it needs a special tool to fit to turn them while adjusting the timing. A 1/2" AF double hex socket (or probably ring spanner) seems to fit perfectly.

Excellent.. Thx

[citrov6]

Did you find a good deal for cambelts? unfortunately I think both mine are due, the one I use every day is on 65kmiles had its belts done 5 years ago, and the drive belt looks likes its cracking, I will probably do the other in a few months thats on 145kmiles.

want to do the 4 rollers, water pump and cam & drive belts

[citroenxm]

citroV6, whats the total cost for: Belt, Water pump and what ever else needs replacing?? I ask, as I fancy dooing my V6 when it arrives home, as I have NO idea of the history... and just estimate 60k miles.. total..

Paul

[xantia_v6]

Water Pump (old style) £47
Belt, tensioner (new style) and 3 idlers £135
The Aux belt is a common Volvo part, and was bought on-line for £9.
So other than having to adjust the pump with a hacksaw, it was a good deal.


old and new (adjusted) pumps and tensioners


detail of pump adjustment