Xantia S1 window switches

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 03 Jul 2009, 16:12

For some time past, the driver's window switch has been iffy on UP. Of course, unlike every other window, this is the one and only switch for the window that gets opened/closed most frequently!

I've tried to remove the plastic switch-panel from the door but something is holding the bottom RH corner. From previous posts there's said to be a T10 screw on the underside of this panel - not on a S1! The only visible T10 in that area is behind the door release handle retaining a separate trim panel. I'm reluctant to use too much force - does anyone know/remember for certain how this panel comes off, please?

With the panel pulled away as far as I dare, I can see a flimsy little moulding has broken. If I stick my pinkey behind the switch it works every time. If I can only get the panel off, repair/replacement/bodge shouldn't be too difficult.

Guy

arkweld · Post by **arkweld** » 03 Jul 2009, 16:59

You'd probably find that the small screw beneath the door release handle ' is actually keeping the cover on , by a tab . Both my S1's had this .

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 03 Jul 2009, 19:04

Thanks for that Arkweld, I'll try that in the morning.

wainy · Post by **wainy** » 03 Jul 2009, 22:48

Hi,

I've recently changed all the door panels on my Activa to go with the leather interior I've half fitted (ie no power to the seats yet

, but that's another story!). Can confirm that S1's have a small screw underneath the panel which holds the window switches. If you feel around on the horizontal part of this under the interior door handle, you should be able to find it

.

WAINY.

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 05 Jul 2009, 16:36

Thanks everybody. Problem sorted. For the benefit of anyone else faced with a dodgy driver door window switch:

What confused this poor old pedant is that previous posts refer to a small (T10) screw in this panel (i.e. the one holding the switches). In fact, if you stand on your head and look up under the door pull handle, you will see the screw in the (leather-look) trim panel behind the switch panel, about ½" back from the joint. It screws into a leg that protrudes from the rear of the switch panel. (I'll take a picture when I get a chance.) Remove the screw, and the switch panel can be carefully unclipped with the fingers.

Take great care when removing the coloured connector block from these switches. The switches themselves are in two halves held together by barbed clips that catch onto very flimsy bars. If you just pull on the wires, you will break the switch - what had been previously done (not me) to the faulty switch. The connector block must be levered out of the switch body with a small flat screwdriver while its barbed retainer is held open with something thin.

Once the panel is off, the final hurdle is the large shiny spring washer; it is possible to wiggle it off. It helps to have a small sharp awl to open up the splits in the washer. Once the washer is off, the plastic moulding (supporting the switches from the back) unhinges releasing the switches.

I swapped the drivers door switch for one of the rear door switches - I'm not worried that the switch legends are now wrong. The important thing is that the driver's window will now shut reliably on command. Incidentally, when testing it, I notice that there is a slight delay before the 'one-shot' relay drops out. I wonder if the switch suffered from an impatient first (female) owner not understanding how it worked?

Guy