synergie...couple of issues..auto gears..electrics..tapping

asav · Post by **asav** » 29 Jun 2009, 19:24

ahhh..this diagnostic lark has got us over a barrel...and anyway I have no idea
exactly how much oil i let out in the begining!!..so this diagnostic tool...what exactly is it and can normal humans get hold of em and operate them..or is it like the size of a small countries defence computer.

new gearbox isn't far off what i paid for the whole car

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 29 Jun 2009, 20:06

The genuine units are very expensive if you can find one at all, but there are cheap Chinese copies of the lexia 3, its basically an interface lead set for a laptop, you can pick those up from ebay for around £200, theres a few on here with those, apparently they work just as good as genuine versions.

As right now your gearbox is low on oil, I would do the top-up procedure as listed in the pdf with the gearbox casing hot to touch, its going to be closer to the correct level that is is now. Don't do a full drain, just a top up, should be about 1/2 a liter of oil.

Post by **myglaren** » 29 Jun 2009, 20:25

Recognised that name - he's a poster on Aussiefrogs

asav · Post by **asav** » 30 Jun 2009, 20:18

Sid_the_Squid wrote:cheap Chinese copies of the lexia 3

checked em out and will be getting me one of those....once i'v payed for a new timing belt! cos I have no history of it being done.

asav · Post by **asav** » 03 Jul 2009, 10:42

Sid_the_Squid wrote: http://www.eastment.net/forum/al4%20oil%20change.pdf

Hi Sid, I think I have now found the filler for the gearbox...looking at the pdf its on page 3..and points to filler (2)...says remove cap...when I look at mine i don't have a cap, I see a small square hole (where a cap should possibly be) and see a bronze-y colour inside...is that it???

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 03 Jul 2009, 10:55

asav, The 'small squair hole' is infact the top of a bolt, the bolt is in the filler hole. The PDF says 'remove fillter plug', that is the filler plug, you need square drain plug key tool to remove. Here is an image of what one looks like.

Here is a picture of the bolt when removed, also shown the crush washer.

asav · Post by **asav** » 03 Jul 2009, 11:12

ohhh, shall try an get a drain plug key...

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 03 Jul 2009, 11:15

I'd get a set of them, its very hard to tell sizes by looking (well I found it hard)
Your local car parts should have some

Post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2009, 12:46

Sid,

Did you use my black plug key when you changed the oil in yours the other day?

If you did, I'll have a look at it later and advise the size.

I've a nagging feeling it's a 5/16" one

Don't take that as gospel though...

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 03 Jul 2009, 12:53

Yes Jim I certainly did use a black plug key of yours, when changing the oil in my AL4. Don't have a clue what size it was though, can only seem to remember the metric hex nut sizes, imperial stuff confuses me. Hehe, showing my age there

asav · Post by **asav** » 03 Jul 2009, 15:46

help!...ok have hopefully managed to upload a pic?

removed airbox...underneath and to the left is a squarish hole..

now thats where i thought the filler was but there don't seem to be any plug to remove???

but just further back near what i must be the clutch cable is a cap?? ya can just about see it in the pic....got a bit of rust on it.

please excuse my lack of knowledge...i really am a total new boy when it comes to cars...but i like trying to learn new stuff and do it for myself...if possible

anyway went to the nearest citro specialist...2ltrs cost me £17..and then i asked about a tool to remove the plug..they where clueless??

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 03 Jul 2009, 17:03

Asav, I assume by ‘citro specialist’ you mean Citroen parts dept at the official Citroen dealer, The price is right, but to be sure does the bottle look like this?

As for the plug tool Citroen themselves won’t have that, you need a car parts & tools shop, like Halfords or an independent.
The first two pictures are to close to the front of the car, the 3rd picture is the one you’re after, as you can see the bolt/plug is slightly obscured by the gear selector arm, which I think your refereeing to as the ‘clutch cable’, there’s no clutch on an auto

. The obstruction of the gear selector arm is why you need to put the car in 2nd to get decent access to the drain bolt. If you can clean up the area around the bolt before removing to ensure no rust falls into the box, spray carb cleaner or clutch cleaner I find useful, that and cotton rags (use some old clothes).

You also want to buy one of these, it’s a funnel with a flexi tube and a mesh filter built in, the blue part is also an on off switch. I have one of these, found it most helpful, sadly I bought from a local independent and can’t remember brand name nor part name.

.i really am a total new boy when it comes to cars

Don’t worry we all start somewhere.

but i like trying to learn new stuff and do it for myself...if possible

That’s the spirit, don’t worry if you make mistakes a few times, there’s always a learning curve, just be patient and take things slow, take time to think, remember to eat and drink, if your tired take a break and go back to it later, the amount of things I've broken by trying the job when I'm to tyred.

asav · Post by **asav** » 03 Jul 2009, 18:46

brilliant...thanks again..very much, I now know what i'm doing

, its little things like putting it into 2nd that you really need to know, cos i was thinking i'm gonna have a really hard time getting to that cap.

Yeap thats the bottle!

Sid_the_Squid · Post by **Sid_the_Squid** » 03 Jul 2009, 22:20

Even in 2nd the access is still not that great, you'll need nimble fingers, don't worry about reusing the crush washer it will be fine for a few more changes. Check the PDF for the exact oil change procedure, off the top of my head I think its

1. add 1/2 liter of oil
2. run engine, selecting all gears (with foot break applied) then back to P
2. keeping engine running remove 19mm hex bolt,
3. oil level is correct when you see a stream which then reduces to a series of drips.
3a. if you don't get a steam then series of drips, just drips or nothing, repeat from step 1.
4. close up, job done.

But double check the PDF.

It is critical that a) the engine is running, b) the car is level, so if you jack the front up, jack the back up too. As I have a hard time finding any level surface around where I live, I ended up with a series of jacks at different heights at each jacking point of the car, running around with a spirit level.
Its much easier at Jim's place, nice and level.

Good luck.

Post by **CitroJim** » 04 Jul 2009, 09:48

That's great stuff asav

The plug key you need is indeed 5/16" or in new money, 8mm (had to put the vernier calipers on it to get that

)