C5 Crankshaft Pully

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 31 May 2009, 23:49

C5 2003 2.2 HDI Auto, had to come home today courtesy of the AA, they said Crankshaft Pully was on it's way out, is this just a matter of Aux belt off, undo Pully nut , pull pully off, new Pully on, inset nut ,torque up,replace Aux belt, or is it not that simple.
Any ideas for locking the Crankshaft so I can tighten the bolt, it is an Auto.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 01 Jun 2009, 08:42

i think it will be one of them there dual mass pully's, in which case it will probably also have a D/M flywheel as well,

the pully isn't a problem as it will be as you say, but i have heard you are not ment to lock the crack by a lever into the starter ring gear with this type of flywheel,

regards malcolm

ps.
i also found GSF to be a lot cheaper than the dealers when i replaced this pully on a pissssscaso, they had two quality's i wpuld recomend you buy the higher priced one, because if this fails you risk the aux drive belt wormming its way into the cab belt houseing a reaping all kinds of expencive damage

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 01 Jun 2009, 08:44

Yes it is that simple, I would also clean the bolt threads & put threadlock on the bolt. As far as locking the crank can you get to any of the teeth on the flywheel ring gear & jam it with a screwdriver?

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 01 Jun 2009, 09:09

Thanks for your replies, yes it is a dual mass pully,not sure about the flywheel, so it would seem I will have a problem locking the shaft for tightening, I will use the starter motor method for unbolting, is using the auto box park position a no no.

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 01 Jun 2009, 10:47

I don't think the auto has a DMF, dont think there would be any point ? Just to clarify, I dont mean using the timing pin locking hole to hold the flywheel, thats a definite no no . I mean using a screwdriver or similar on the actual ring gear teeth to hold it. That is if you can get to them easy enough, maybe need to take the starter out. There is no problem using the teeth on the ring gear to lock the flywheel even on a DMF as the ring gear is on the solid side of it. The proper citroen tool just jams the ring gear.

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 01 Jun 2009, 10:58

Hi wheeler, thanks again for your reply, no I was not contemplating locking the pully using the timing pin. I was wondering if the park position on the auto box that I understand locks the diff with pins in the park position and applying the brake would enable the nut to be torqued up or is that likely to damage the pins locking the diff.

Post by **Paul-R** » 01 Jun 2009, 11:36

Don't use the park position of the auto box. This will allow the shock waves to transmit through the box and may damage something there.

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 01 Jun 2009, 11:36

Doesent sound like a good idea to do that with the park lock but im not 100% sure. Someone who knows more about autoboxes will maybe comment on this. The easiest way by far is an air impact gun if you have access to one

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 01 Jun 2009, 11:48

Got the impact gun and a 3hp comp. but only 3/8 inch pipework at the moment, not enough air for the gun to function properly.

Post by **CitroJim** » 01 Jun 2009, 13:00

wheeler wrote:Doesent sound like a good idea to do that with the park lock but im not 100% sure. Someone who knows more about autoboxes will maybe comment on this.

The park pawl on a 4HP20 'box is a strong and massive affair but I'd be very wary about undoing crank bolts against it as I have a feeling, looking at how it works, that if there is a danger of serious overload to it, it'll jump out of engagement.

I certainly agree that a good rattle gun is the best way to attack this.

andycarter · Post by **andycarter** » 01 Jun 2009, 13:08

the autobox parking pawl locks the wheels, not the engine

acrowot · Post by **acrowot** » 01 Jun 2009, 18:12

Good point Andy, I don't think I would of gone down that path anyway.