Paintwork probs

[hobblerian]

Seems my Emerald green 97 XM is starting to suffer from peeling laquer on the roof, it is only just beginning around the ariel and from black plastic strip near the doors. Just wondering if rubbing down the edges with fine wetndry and resealing with new laquer would prevent the spreading? There is no sign of lifting except from the edges. Really don't fancy having to shell out for a complete laquer re-spray on the entire roof.

[XantiaMan]

Seems my Emerald green 97 XM is starting to suffer from peeling laquer on the roof, it is only just beginning around the ariel and from black plastic strip near the doors. Just wondering if rubbing down the edges with fine wetndry and resealing with new laquer would prevent the spreading? There is no sign of lifting except from the edges. Really don't fancy having to shell out for a complete laquer re-spray on the entire roof.

Pick the edges off with your fingernail to remove the loose cloudy lacquer then use a lacquer stick to do the edges as you mention and that will stop it from getting any worse.

[hobblerian]

Thanks XantiaMan583, I'll be getting on it ASAP.

[Xaccers]

Zac says

I'm waiting for the laquer to finish flaking off before re-applying it.

does anyone know if there is a way to encourage this process
or to selectively strip the laquer without to much damage to the underlying
paint

N reg xantia salon.

Use a thin bit of card, like a car park ticket, to help flake off the peeling bits.

[DoubleChevron]

Hi Guys,

pealing the clear off isn't enough. It's not laquer, it's a urethane clear coat over a base.

The base isn't at all weather proof. Once it start to go you need to sand the clear and base back before you apply some more colour. You don't want to use laquer (it's cr@p), rather you want to use a urethane activated base/clear coat system.

I blowed a bit of paint over my XM last year .... There a sh!t of a car to paint due to all the individual little bits to be done

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61955

seeya,
Shane L.

[XantiaMan]

Urethane is an american term for acrylic which is what 2k lacquer is.

No the basecoat is not weather proof but to prevent further lacquer peel sealing the edges is the best way especially if you do not posess the right kit to paint with a spray gun.

[DoubleChevron]

Urethane is an american term for acrylic which is what 2k lacquer is.

No the basecoat is not weather proof but to prevent further lacquer peel sealing the edges is the best way especially if you do not posess the right kit to paint with a spray gun.

So you guy call urethane, laquer... Um, what do you call laquer

Urethane is ... well urethane, it's not a seppo term as far as I know
Just like enamel is enamel... and laquer is laquer ...

If you mix thinners with the paint, and no activater it will most likely be acrylic laquer (ie: laquer that doesn't last for sh!t and is a century old paint)

if it's an activated urethane that doesn't require a clear, out here this is known as "common" at the local paint store, it's know as "Single Stage" on the US bodywork boards.

If it's a base then clear coat, it is a base of some type (could be a modern waterborn type or whatever is legal), then an activated urethane clear over the top. ie: you will mix a hardener into the paint and most likely a reducer of some sort.

Unless you have an airfed mask (ie: AIR SUPPLIED hood of some sort) do NOT use any of the activated paints. Laquer is your only option.

This is the finish I was getting straight off the gun with the modern urethane paints:



seeya,
Shane L.

[XantiaMan]

You have different terminalogy, what we generically call lacquer the yanks call clearcoat for example.

I believe the type of 'lacquer' you describe is what we call a 1k acrylic, it doesnt need an activator as its air drying, has poor build, gloss and durability, its used in aerosols. The only thing going for its is its speed and ease of polishing.

The single stage paint using is cheap and i would never use it, you cannot machine polish it if needed and the durability is not even close to a conventional clear over base finish.

As for using an air fed, not when your outside I use 2k all the time, have done for over 10 years just dont abuse it.

This is what i get working outside, straight out the gun with a 2 stage clear over base finish. Its a german made lacquer which is voc compliant and scratch resistant.

[DoubleChevron]

You have different terminalogy, what we generically call lacquer the yanks call clearcoat for example.

I believe the type of 'lacquer' you describe is what we call a 1k acrylic, it doesnt need an activator as its air drying, has poor build, gloss and durability, its used in aerosols. The only thing going for its is its speed and ease of polishing.

The single stage paint using is cheap and i would never use it, you cannot machine polish it if needed and the durability is not even close to a conventional clear over base finish.

As for using an air fed, not when your outside I use 2k all the time, have done for over 10 years just dont abuse it.

This is what i get working outside, straight out the gun with a 2 stage clear over base finish. Its a german made lacquer which is voc compliant and scratch resistant.

That's the stuff Seriuosly though mate... You shouldn't be spraying it without an airfed mask (even if outside)... It contain iso-cyanates (sp ??). They attack the whites of your eyes, get obsorbed by the skin, and a standard filter mask will not filter them out.... really bad stuff

Acrylic laquer (the stuff sold in pressure packs) isn't to bad to use, it doesnt' last very well, but if you buy a good quality paint it's finish is fantastic.

Eg: This is my old CX I painted with PPG acrylic laquer:





sadly it chips and scratches really easily and doesn't last for sh!t if left in the weather. Bird sh!t will lift it etc.... It's all I could use at the time though as I didn't have an air-fed mask!

seeya,
Shane L.