Hey all. 'new' Xantia diesel, water leak and bumpy rear end!

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 08 Apr 2009, 01:29

Check out the handy hints and tips section for my instructions on how to build a DIY sphere removal tool.
I use spheres from GSF as they're about £20 each.
Get hydrorincage (hydroflush) from them too, and replace your LHM with it for 1500miles, then replace it with fresh LHM (the Haynes book of lies covers how to do this quite well).

The suspension on these cars is great, not just because of the great ride, but also because it's dead easy and not that expensive to renew, and also the car is able to help you with working underneath it.
Basically, if you need to work under the front, set the car on high, place axle stands under the front jacking points, you may need to jack via the subframe to get them under, axle stands on lowest setting is usually high enough for most needs. Then set the car on low, it will rest on the axle stands, and as the back goes down, the front goes up, giving loads of space to work under, and doing all the heavy lifting for you.
Same goes for the rear.

I know it's mentioned in other threads, but as we're here, to do the back spheres, set the car on high, and get axle stands/jacks under the car to protect yourself, but keep the wheels on the ground.
Get as many people as you can to sit in the boot, you need to have plenty of pressure on the rear suspension arms to hold them in place.
Then fit the sphere tool and you should be able to "crack" them free as they're likely to have rusted to the struts. Only crack them so they're easy to unscrew, don't actually unscrew them like that!
Then put axle stands under the rear jack points and set to low. Depressurise the system (not sure if it's any different on a sinker, I'm sure someone will tell you how), and unscrew the old rear spheres.
Front spheres can be changed in about 20 minutes (less if you really try) and are much easier.
I can't think of any sprung car where you can renew the suspension all round in under an hour

Oh and check to see if you have a bosch fuel pump, if you do you should be able to run it on vegetable oil and save some money, but if it's a lucas pump then you'll know to avoid veg at all costs and only use diesel. I have a feeling the 1.9D used either, where as the 1.9TD used bosch in 99.9% of cases.

Post by **CitroJim** » 08 Apr 2009, 05:53

I believe most, if not all, Ds had the Lucas pump.

They're good pumps but only when run on diesel. As Xac says, steer well clear of veg if it's a Lucas.

If you are desparate to run veg, a Bosch conversion is possible and not too difficult.

reanimation · Post by **reanimation** » 08 Apr 2009, 10:26

Thanks again Xac/Jim/all
A bit to take in there but does sound simple and quick if you know what you are doing.

This was meant to be my sensible car! Keen to get it fixed and get using it, I currently have limited space to work on it locally and vowwed not to work in the car park as I can't see me being popular. the leaks gonna be fixed in situ at least!

one step at a time, i'll work onto the suspension, if i can't find a reasonable specialist i will have a go at it DIY carefully following the HBOL and helpful posts on this site.

cheers

PS: re the veg oil thing, i dunno, will have a look , could come in handy obviously

The 50+ MPG will be a bonus already and motorway crusability, compared to my 1.1 Fiesta van petrol screamer!

addo · Post by **addo** » 08 Apr 2009, 10:34

The suspension spheres honestly are easy to change. Hardest bit is loosening them!

reanimation · Post by **reanimation** » 08 Apr 2009, 11:03

OK I'll believe you, had a look at the how to just then.

So all the LHM ideally needs doing too but for now can I get away with just renewing spheres, or is it one of them thats best and easiest done all in one go? Could do spheres in an evening or something but squirting slimer juice about is a bit more involved and weekend workshop material!

I take it its normal for the brake pedal to feel like a switch? struggled to recognise the pedal on my first drive home which was scary for a minute, feels low and not a lot of feel but stops alright. I'm sure this is what they are like as normal.

--

Oh and by the way i did only buy it cos it had long MOT, was reasonably cheap and was going to Citroen breakers if I didn't buy it! i don't think they expected it to sail MOT 22nd march, so opened up the deal to me like 4 days before the tax ran out! Seemed too good to be broken, So better get these two jobs done and then ponder an oil and cam belt change!

MikeT · Post by **MikeT** » 08 Apr 2009, 11:20

You could do just the one sphere for now, to build up your confidence and gain the experience. It'll also be worth removing and cleaning the LHM filters and bleeding the brakes - if only to flush out some crud. Costs nothing except time and can make a noticeable difference.

reanimation · Post by **reanimation** » 08 Apr 2009, 11:30

Oh thats good.

I've just found these guys local, http://www.westroen-spheres.co.uk/ (same people who did em in 2002 I reckon) they fit reconditioned spheres for £30ea ('free fitting') no mention of costs to replace fluids. And theres a recommendation of another garage on here that do all but electrics. Paris Autos IIRC suppose it depends how much the tool costs if i DIY em.

addo · Post by **addo** » 08 Apr 2009, 13:03

I've got the impression Westroen are pretty decent. At £30/pop they would probably be best used to exchange the ones that can't be bought for less (ie; dual membrane front strut spheres).

However at UK prices, a new generic accumulator is a cheaper prospect than regassing.

Xaccers · Post by **Xaccers** » 08 Apr 2009, 13:39

The brake pedal has a plunger on the back, on most UK Xantias it has a spring inside giving a gradual application of the brakes, however some people prefer the on/off setting, so remove the plunger, open it up and replace the spring with a bit of copper pipe.
You can either get used to the on/off and learn how to gently apply the brakes (but be really careful if you then get into another car!) or go to a scrap yard and nab a spring loaded one from there.

reanimation · Post by **reanimation** » 08 Apr 2009, 18:30

More useful info cheers. ^ I reckon i'll get used to brakes no i know where to find em

Its actually on the bulkhead side/back of the engine, nearest the drivers side

Well i've just been out under the car to fix that leak and the rubber gasket/grommet/rubber ring is too big. having pulled a hose off to examine the junction and i can see how the ring slots in to make fitting easier and no fiddling at the hard to reach side, however the ring that I have now and the one before are too big. Tried squeezing it in but too much to go round so surely wrong size. hmm

Oh and the battery is flat now.