Xantia lower balljoint removal

Keith J · Post by **Keith J** » 01 Apr 2009, 13:31

Any tips.

The proper tool won't budge it. A cold chisel won't move it, a big blowlamp hasn't helped. I am now afraid that the cold chisel will chew it all up until it is unable to be removed.

I am on the drive a home, I don't have acces to a lift.

I assume that both sides have a RH thread!

Heelllllllppppp!

sparky33 · Post by **sparky33** » 01 Apr 2009, 13:57

Use a "scissor" type splitter.

Brigsygtt · Post by **Brigsygtt** » 01 Apr 2009, 13:59

My s**t hot scissor type tool wouldn't shift mine, i nearly broke it. Bought a wedge type splitter, even with mash hammer wouldn't budge. Had to use unconventional methods...

I was replacing the balljoints on mine so ripped all the rubber off, fitted the scissor tool on & tightened up fully, then hit the wedge splitter above the scissor tool. To say it split with a bang is an understatement

Brigsygtt · Post by **Brigsygtt** » 01 Apr 2009, 14:05

Do you mean splitting or removing it from the hub?

To get the balljoint out of the hub, i took the hub off. Clamp it secure in the vice, Tear the rubber off the balljoint if still on. Clamped me big stilhsons on the inner 5mm solid ridge of the balljoint. Got a mate to put weight on the stilhsons & i cracked the end of them with a mash hammer, shocked it loose no bother. Undo them like any bolt, normal thread.

Keith J · Post by **Keith J** » 01 Apr 2009, 14:42

I wish to remove it from the hub to replace it as it is knackered.

I have never encounterd either type of splitter but will look into that. I have had to put it back together until I have more time tomorrow to address it.

Keith J · Post by **Keith J** » 01 Apr 2009, 14:51

Upon re reading, I know what splitters you mean. To get the lower wishbone to break free from the taper. That is no problem, my problem is tryin gto unscrew the old balljoint from the hub.

Post by **RichardW** » 01 Apr 2009, 14:53

You need the hub off and in the vice, then carefully un peen the (barely visible amongst the rust) lock tab washer, heat it up, then attack it with your (large) weapon of choice

So I'm led to believe anway, never had the misfortune to have to tackle one!

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 01 Apr 2009, 15:46

I have done two before, a few years ago..

in situ

big stilson and a tube on that... get it to bite and off you go

hub off would be easier, better etc.. but worth a shot..

there is a special tool for doing them.. a £5 to a garage maybe you could borrow one? (think it's a kind of castellated socket)

good luck

John

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 01 Apr 2009, 20:33

i have done several of these some in sittue some in the vice, i do have the special tool, which i think they arte/were around the 18 squid mark from any good factors,

you must be very carefull on removing one of them (cant remember which side) i think its the O/S drvers side, because the direction you are turnning the joint to undo it will also pull the intermediate drive shaft joint triak out of its cup,

i fit the tool which is held onto the swivel joint by its own nut onto the swivel pin then a lage socket on the toll with a 2 foot knucle bar and a 4 foot scafold tube slid onto that, i belive they are only ment to be toqued up to 50 lb ft

regards malcolm

ps.
were about are you

BrianM · Post by **BrianM** » 01 Apr 2009, 22:02

You will notice the Vs in the carrier where the shoulder of the balljoint is hammered up into. Get at these with the chisel to make sure they are released. It makes getting the balljoint out a bit easier

.

Brian

Keith J · Post by **Keith J** » 01 Apr 2009, 22:05

Thanks everyone. I do have the right tool with the castellated top and I have done the OS one twice in the past with no problems, but this one is proving to be a righ B******

Pleiades · Post by **Pleiades** » 01 Apr 2009, 22:59

This may be of some help, it's the way I allways shift them, BX, XM, Xantia, they are all the same.

Undo the drive shaft hub nut, then undo the lower ball joint nut and split the joint, lift the hub from the drive shaft.

Next get a long bar that will fit in to the splines of the hub, I use an old drive shaft, the splines that go into the gearbox are the same as the hub splines, this ensures a perfect fit with no damage to the splines.

If you are lucky!! you can put the proper tool on the joint and using the bar in the hub work the two against each other, like a pair of scissors and it will come undone. You will need a good length socket bar, I use a 4ft long breaker bar.

It does help if you have a belly like mine, this provides a cushion for the bar whilst pulling on the breaker bar.

If it refuses, heat is your friend, the ball joint is put in with loctite on the threads. Loctite will give in at 300 degrees c. Strangley, soap will turn black at 300 degrees c! Use an old bar of soap and reub some around the metal of the hub, around the ball joint, now heat it up untill the soap goes black and I kid you not, it will come undone.

Dont forget to get yourself a new heat shield, as you will break the old one and a new joint dont allways last too long without the heat shield.

Regards
Martin.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 02 Apr 2009, 08:48

thats a good idea regarding useing an old driveshaft Martin, i suspect you could wedge it against the sub frame, then all your efort can go into the bar/tool on the joint

but i dont like to use to much heat around the hub as it could/will melt the grease in you hub bearing

regards malcolm

Pleiades · Post by **Pleiades** » 02 Apr 2009, 16:34

Hi Malcolm.

Yes the heat around the hub bearing has allways been in the back of my mind when doing this, but maybe only down to luck? it has not been a problem so far.

It's just one of those jobs where you know that you should not be doing it this way, but how the hell else are you gonna shift it??

Regards
Martin.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 02 Apr 2009, 22:45

i have allways done them without heat, just a little PERCY WHAT SIT i think,

and i think now armed with your idea of useing an old shaft it will be even easyer

regards malcolm