Xantia 1.9td 1998 s1 clutch replacement.........Aargh

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admiral51
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Xantia 1.9td 1998 s1 clutch replacement.........Aargh

Post by admiral51 »

Hi all help and advice is needed on the above topic :) :)

I have taken what seems to be the most common reply when asking for advice on the clutch replacement and decided to get someone to do it for me :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

All i need now is some pointers in which parts to source and which make are most favoured :)

I know i need the clutch plate but have seen GSF do a clutch kit does this contain everything else i will need :? :?

i vaguley remember CitroJim posting something about 2 rollers :oops: :oops: but not 100% sure --- i am intending to have the clutch cable and clip replaced at the same time

As usual any help greatfully recieved :D :D

Colin
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Post by jgra1 »

Colin :D

yes get a whole clutch kit! contains the friction plate itself, the sprung diaphragm and the release bearing.. I payed £50 for mine, Valeo, think i did well though :twisted:

TD clutch is a pull clutch (relase bearing is engaged in the diaphragm not loose)

you can get the two release arm bushes, plastic items and cheap. and get the two driveshaft seals... that should do you :D

Driveshaft seals were silly money from the stealers, must be a better way

dont forget., 2 L of 75/80 for the gearbox.

John
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Post by RichardW »

Drive shaft seals and oil available from GSF. I'd change the input shaft seal / guide tube as well - only about £10 from the dealers. Getting the cable and clip changed will add 3 hours to the labour bill.... ISTRM the LHM tank needs to come out on the Xantia, so worth a change of fluid at the same time.
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Post by citronut »

Richard why dose the LHM tank need removing,

rrgards malcolm
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Post by Peter.N. »

If its anything like the XM, the LHM tank is only one of many things that have to come out to see the gearbox let alone remove it. :(
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Post by red_dwarfers »

I thinking of changing my clutch this summer, catch it before I become stranded.
Im also edging towards the possibility of buying the stuff and getting a garage to fit it...I darn't look at quotes yet :lol: Its just a thought so far though.
Maybe when the better weather comes I might feel a bit more positive. Incidentally, we've had about half a foot of snow fall last night :shock:
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Post by admiral51 »

Thanks for info one and all
i have been quoted £300=£350 to supply and fit clutch from a local mechanic whom i do trust to do the work just a little concerned with the price of the clutch he has quoted £140. not 100% sure what that comes with but now i have a better idea of whats needed i can ask some questions with a degree of knowledge on what the answers should be :lol: :lol:

Cheers

Colin
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Post by RichardW »

GSF price is just over £100, so £140 retail is not far off - however, if this not a Valeo clutch, I'd ask if he can get you a Valeo one from GSF!
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Post by vince »

Guys the clutch kits GSF stock for the Xantias tend to all be LUK, Valeo or Citroen OE.

Either one is good, ive never seen either one come back on warranty....ever.

If you supply the clutch kit, cable and clip (make sure you get the metal part and the plastic part) They are seperate part numbers at GSF...then the labour price quoted seems reasonable. The best quote i had to fit the clutch was £150 and that was through a citroen independant we supplied.
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Post by Brigsygtt »

Ive just done my clutch today, its not too bad a job to be fair compared to some cars. No need to remove lhm tank or too many things. Access is tight though.

I bought a full kit from gsf for a ton delivered, Genuine citroen/valeo kit.
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Post by red_dwarfers »

Brigsy,

Do you have any hints or tips regarding the clutch change?
Do's or dont's etc...

Im arming myself with information :lol:
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Post by jgra1 »

Kevin, a few from memory..


take a pic of the over gearbox pipes and looms, they fit in a plastic tray and it's not always obvious when you put it all back together.

An engine hoist is useful for taking some of the gearbox weight, when you try to put it back on.. especially if working alone..

A half inch socket extension bar seems to be quite good at aligning clutch plate, if there is nothing supplied with clutch kit

you need to 'wind out' the release arm shaft as gearbox comes off.. and wind in as it goes back on.. the release arm needs to be removed to be able to turn the release shaft enough to do this.

Be careful to engage the release arm 'forks' in the bearing as it all goes back together, and check as you go (its not too hard to use your hand to move the clutch a tiny bit once the gearbox is back on, to check, before you finish all off)

I think the BOL is not to bad for clutch changing to be fair..
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Post by Brigsygtt »

jgra1 wrote:Be careful to engage the release arm 'forks' in the bearing as it all goes back together, and check as you go (its not too hard to use your hand to move the clutch a tiny bit once the gearbox is back on, to check, before you finish all off)
Thats the one you need to remember red_dwarfers, I got that wrong initially :lol:

I used a clarke strongarm to support the box, not ideal an engine hoist/block & tackle would be much better. Also 2 trolley jacks come in handy.

Citrojim's Blow by blow covers all aspects of removal/refit, a good read. http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=23322
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Post by citronut »

i never use any alignning tool for the drive plate, i just feel the edge of the drive plate at each point you can get your figers in, around the edge of the presure plate, just make sure it is equal all the way round the edge of at the drive plate to the working edge of the presure plate

always remove the O/S drive shaft from the hub and intermediate bearing houseing, or you will bend the inner section of the drive shaft

works every time

regards malcolm
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Post by admiral51 »

Another update and request for help :) :)

I have not yet had the clutch done yet,partly for financial reasons and partly cos ive not been 100% convinced it needs replacing :? :?

Although the clutch feels heavy there is no slippage and it judders slightly on release the pedal itself feels notchy on release even with the engine off.
I have had a quick look tonight and the cable gearbox end seems a little jerky when the pedal is released (yes assistant required :lol: :lol: ) so my thoughts are that it may be the cable and or the rollers that CitroJim was mentioning in his post.

I know its a pain of a job to do but as i need to sell either the TD or the 1.9D im hoping to have a go at changing the cable+clip+top roller if i can get at it without dropping the box [-o< [-o<

Any comments welcome

Cheers

Colin
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