zx 1.9td keypad/imobiliser problem help!!!!
Moderator: RichardW
zx 1.9td keypad/imobiliser problem help!!!!
i know this can be a common problem with zx's,but i cannot find a solution on the net anywhere.took car down shops the other day and got back in car and turned ignition and both lights come on keypad (red and green).it still lets youtry and put in your code and beeps with every entry,but light both stay on.we have tried another keypad that works from my wifes zx and both lights are still on,and put on a new battery,but no joy.i have been told there is no ecu/computer on my zx its a 1996 n reg aura.does this mean someone can bypass the feed from ignition to keypad to pump by just going from ignition to pump????? if so i have a auto electrition who is happy to give that a go,but if it has a feed to an ecu/computer hes not willing to touch it!!! if any of you guys have a solution your commwents on this problem are very welcome....thanks
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Welcome to the forum Simbabull
On the 1.9TD ZX, the immobiliser is a self-contained unit on the pump itself. It connects direct to the keypad via the black connector on the pump.
The code is stored in the immobiliser and not in the keypad itself so just swapping the keypad will not work. The symptoms indicate that the keypad has lost communication with the immobiliser module.
Have a check of the black plug on the pump. Pull it off and check the connections, replace it and try again. Check again the keypad connections.
The immobiliser module actually sits on top of the pump stop solenoid and can be bypassed simply by taking a switched +12V direct to the solenoid.
The big problem is the solenoid and immobiliser module are hidden under the pump armour (to prevent you doing a "hotwire") and this must be firstly removed. Not an easy job at all and one which entails removing the pump from the engine.
Herre's a few pictures of the immobiliser module and how to remove the armour.
Don't under-estimate the job, it's risky and therefore best to entrust to a Diesel Specialist.
On the 1.9TD ZX, the immobiliser is a self-contained unit on the pump itself. It connects direct to the keypad via the black connector on the pump.
The code is stored in the immobiliser and not in the keypad itself so just swapping the keypad will not work. The symptoms indicate that the keypad has lost communication with the immobiliser module.
Have a check of the black plug on the pump. Pull it off and check the connections, replace it and try again. Check again the keypad connections.
The immobiliser module actually sits on top of the pump stop solenoid and can be bypassed simply by taking a switched +12V direct to the solenoid.
The big problem is the solenoid and immobiliser module are hidden under the pump armour (to prevent you doing a "hotwire") and this must be firstly removed. Not an easy job at all and one which entails removing the pump from the engine.
Herre's a few pictures of the immobiliser module and how to remove the armour.
Don't under-estimate the job, it's risky and therefore best to entrust to a Diesel Specialist.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Ahh, you may have the Lucas pump then. It should still have two connectors on it, a blue one and a black one.
The immobiliser module hides at the back of the pump behind armour but the stop solenoid is hard-wired to the immobiliser module.
See if this photo looks like yours:
It shows (with the armour fully removed) the immobiliser module, the stop solenoid and the connector for the immobiliser.
That's the cold injection advance solenoid connector anot not connected with the immobiliser or stop solenoid at all.
De-armouring a Lucas is a lot easier than a Bosch but it still has to come off the car to do it. Also, if you do away with the immobiliser, you need to replace the complete stop solenoid with an earlier non-immobilised version, one with a terminal on the top.
The immobiliser module hides at the back of the pump behind armour but the stop solenoid is hard-wired to the immobiliser module.
See if this photo looks like yours:
It shows (with the armour fully removed) the immobiliser module, the stop solenoid and the connector for the immobiliser.
You mean this one:simbabull wrote: there is a wire at the front of the pump which unclips and pulls apart,is this the plug i need to check the connectors on?? i cant see any other black plugs or any plugs other than that one.
thanks again
That's the cold injection advance solenoid connector anot not connected with the immobiliser or stop solenoid at all.
De-armouring a Lucas is a lot easier than a Bosch but it still has to come off the car to do it. Also, if you do away with the immobiliser, you need to replace the complete stop solenoid with an earlier non-immobilised version, one with a terminal on the top.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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If you put on the ignition, put in your code so that the red light goes out and green light comes on,then unplug the key pad and leave it unpluged the immobiliser in the pump will never cut in and start every time.
I know this is not a repair as you will not have a keypad to immobilise the engine but at least you can start up every time.
I know this is not a repair as you will not have a keypad to immobilise the engine but at least you can start up every time.
19 years Citroen Tech. Old School Consultant Technician!!
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Craig, forgive me if I'm up a gumtree here but Simba does not get the green light so this may not work in his case. My understanding is that you can only unplug the keypad to permanantly disable the keypad/immobiliser if the engine is up and running (i.e. already immobilised).craigmanc wrote:If you put on the ignition, put in your code so that the red light goes out and green light comes on,then unplug the key pad and leave it unpluged the immobiliser in the pump will never cut in and start every time.
Jim
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My MK1 Xantia had the same symptoms - both red and green lights showing even after correct code entry and the engine will start and run fine while both lights stay on. It's been said this indicates a loss of communication which I suspect this means it's the keypad not receiving the "OK" from the immobiliser (one way) and therefore will not extinguish the red light? As long as the code was being sent and allowed the engine to run, it didn't bother me so I have no solution. Probably a dodgy connector.
firstly guys thanks for the response.now whats a inertia switch? and where is that? i had a look at some fuses under the steering colum panel and they all looked o.k. is there any other fuses i may need to check or any other connections? when the car is switched off the keypads red light flashes like it should its just the problem when you turn ignition on and both red and green come on and after putting in code nothing happens.also jim the wire i was on about on the front is not actualy on the pump its infront with a wire going into a round metal part on the front of the pump 5 inches or so underneath the accelerator spring lever,thats the only connector i have tried unplugging cleaning and clicking back together.i dont know a whole lot about car mechanics but know the basics,so please try and keep the advice as basic as you guys have been..thanks
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- CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
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- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
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Hi Darren,
The intertia switch (if fitted) will be found under the bonnet on one of the inner wings and looking like a long square box (much like a relay) with a rubber cap on top. I've not got a picture but I can pop one up later if my Activa or V6 bonnet will come open in all this frost!!!
Press on the rubber cap to reset it.
Check fuses in the engine bay and inside the car. I'm afraid I don't know the ZX at all well and not sure of fuse locations precisely...
Yes, the solenoid can be replaced with the earlier type but the pump must be de-armoured first. It's not hard and all but one of the tamper-proof screws are obvious and can be undone with a tool like this..
A "BoltGrip" tool made to remove bolts with rounded heads. It has an internal reverse flute...
The one screw that is obscured can be got at by cutting the armour obscuring it with a hacksaw and punching the screw head. None are fantastically tight.
The pump must come off the car to do it and cover all orifices to prevent swarf getting in.
The intertia switch (if fitted) will be found under the bonnet on one of the inner wings and looking like a long square box (much like a relay) with a rubber cap on top. I've not got a picture but I can pop one up later if my Activa or V6 bonnet will come open in all this frost!!!
Press on the rubber cap to reset it.
Check fuses in the engine bay and inside the car. I'm afraid I don't know the ZX at all well and not sure of fuse locations precisely...
Andy,andycarter wrote: If it is possible to replace the stop solenoid with an earlier one on the lucas, could this be done without removing the pump and de-armouring?
Yes, the solenoid can be replaced with the earlier type but the pump must be de-armoured first. It's not hard and all but one of the tamper-proof screws are obvious and can be undone with a tool like this..
A "BoltGrip" tool made to remove bolts with rounded heads. It has an internal reverse flute...
The one screw that is obscured can be got at by cutting the armour obscuring it with a hacksaw and punching the screw head. None are fantastically tight.
The pump must come off the car to do it and cover all orifices to prevent swarf getting in.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
ah, boltGrips eh.
on my Xantia I've not got the armor but the black plastic ECU is fitted on top of the Stop Solenoid with what looks like two shear off bolts holding it on.
Does anyone know what size boltGrips are needed for these two bolts?
The bolts are down the two holes either side of the ECU, does anyone know if a boltGrip will fit down these holes to go round the bolts?
Many thanks
on my Xantia I've not got the armor but the black plastic ECU is fitted on top of the Stop Solenoid with what looks like two shear off bolts holding it on.
Does anyone know what size boltGrips are needed for these two bolts?
The bolts are down the two holes either side of the ECU, does anyone know if a boltGrip will fit down these holes to go round the bolts?
Many thanks