I’m going to have to face the fact that I’m going to have to replace the lower ball joints on my current Xantia. Getting fed up with the knocks and rattles from the front suspension / steering. Can’t seem to detect any movement in anything when I jack the car up and pull and push things around but its seriously noisy over the bumps. Replacing the drop links cured some of it but not all. As I have spare lower arms and bushes and steering rack in stock I thought I may as well go for the lot.
Anyway, onto the question, spotted a couple of the “four prong” removal sockets on flea-bay. One from J&S products that does look the bees knees at £25 and one from Sealey at around £8.
Now, I don’t want to blow 3 times as much as I need to, but then again no point in buying a tool that isn’t up to the job. Do you guys have any advice/ recommendations?
Just as an aside, did 250,000 miles + in the BX, 130,000 miles + in Xantia 1 and 230,000 in Xantia 2 and other than the drop links not had to replace any front suspension and steering parts at all. Current Xantia, from the receipts that came with it, seems to have had just about every front suspension bush and joint replaced at sometime in the 3 years before it came to me and appears to need some major replacements again within 60 - 70,000 miles. Was I just lucky in the past?
Xantia bottom ball joint tool
Moderator: RichardW
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rory_perrett
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Peter.N.
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In the past: 3, CX td Safaris and about 7, XM td estates. Lovely cars. - x 1207
Can't help you with the tools - I borrowed one from my local garage. The rattle is unlikely to be coming from the bottom ball joint as it can only move when there is no weight on it, going over a hump back bridge at about 50 mph might do it 
. I also have had to replace very few joints on the XMs I have been running for the last 13 years or so, they seem to be far superior to other makes.
. I also have had to replace very few joints on the XMs I have been running for the last 13 years or so, they seem to be far superior to other makes.
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bonnyman750
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Hi Rory,
according to the Laser Tools catalogue I obtained from my local GSF outlet, the tool you require is listed as Lower Ball Joint Socket - screw type - 35mm - catalogue number 2918. The book says that it is specifically fof Citroens and Peugeots, however the website just list it as a 35mm socket! I did try to source one of these from the GSF in Coventry but they seemed to(at the time) have trouble geting one, even though Laser's address is listed as Southam, not far from (Warwick) Coventry!!
http://lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=0&item=1548
I had thought of getting one myself as the LHF lower ball joint on the Blue one will need doing before the MOT, however, as the MOT place I take mine to just happens to be CPP (Citroen Peugeot Parts) in Coventry I'll probably just get them to do it
HTH
Glyn
according to the Laser Tools catalogue I obtained from my local GSF outlet, the tool you require is listed as Lower Ball Joint Socket - screw type - 35mm - catalogue number 2918. The book says that it is specifically fof Citroens and Peugeots, however the website just list it as a 35mm socket! I did try to source one of these from the GSF in Coventry but they seemed to(at the time) have trouble geting one, even though Laser's address is listed as Southam, not far from (Warwick) Coventry!!
http://lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=0&item=1548
I had thought of getting one myself as the LHF lower ball joint on the Blue one will need doing before the MOT, however, as the MOT place I take mine to just happens to be CPP (Citroen Peugeot Parts) in Coventry I'll probably just get them to do it
HTH
Glyn
Hi Rory & Glyn -
I purchased this tool some years ago for replacing balljoints on my BX'es
The tool shown by Glyn is not a 35mm socket.
What the description says is, that the socket is made such the pinbolt from the balljoint protrudes through the socket centerhole, and then the socket is fixed on the balljoint using the balljoint nut.
This is necessary because of the insanely huge forces involved to crank off the old balljoint.
The special socket is made with a 35mm hexagonal to fit a standard 35mm socket over it for driving the tool.
You then need 3 pieces of tools :
1) the special socket
2) a 35mm (3/4" drive) hex socket
3) a 3/4" drive Tommybar
The special socket is made in high quality tool steel.
It wont break despite the weak looking pegs that have to transfer the huge forces.
I purchased this tool some years ago for replacing balljoints on my BX'es
The tool shown by Glyn is not a 35mm socket.
What the description says is, that the socket is made such the pinbolt from the balljoint protrudes through the socket centerhole, and then the socket is fixed on the balljoint using the balljoint nut.
This is necessary because of the insanely huge forces involved to crank off the old balljoint.
The special socket is made with a 35mm hexagonal to fit a standard 35mm socket over it for driving the tool.
You then need 3 pieces of tools :
1) the special socket
2) a 35mm (3/4" drive) hex socket
3) a 3/4" drive Tommybar
The special socket is made in high quality tool steel.
It wont break despite the weak looking pegs that have to transfer the huge forces.
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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john alexander
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Hi I bought one from my local auto store and was advised that it was a waste of money and only suitable for refitting the new balljoint , I had a look at it and the balljoint and decided they were probably correct , anyway with the hub stripped off and and hammer and chisel and blowlamp and bigger hammer and angle grinder and blood sweat and tears it came out. I used it to put the new one in. P.s I even used a ships engineer down the road,it nearly killed him. Regards john.