A friend of mine is looking at a 2CV this week. It apparently has had a new galvanised chassis. Any points to look out for other than obvious rot?
Cheers
Duncan
Buying a 2CV what to look out for?
Moderator: RichardW
Buying a 2CV what to look out for?
97 Xantia 1.9TD Estate 118K - sadly no more....
08 C3 1.4 HDI 38k
08 C3 1.4 HDI 38k
Hi Duncan, they are pretty rudimentary (but very cool)
Apart from the rust issue then the standard mechanical checks apply, and make sure the clutch performs faultlessly.
From memory im pretty sure you cant change it with the engine in situ, you have to take the front end apart and the engine out.
Spares are aplenty though so no worries there.
Wish i could buy one
Apart from the rust issue then the standard mechanical checks apply, and make sure the clutch performs faultlessly.
From memory im pretty sure you cant change it with the engine in situ, you have to take the front end apart and the engine out.
Spares are aplenty though so no worries there.
Wish i could buy one
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- (Donor 2020)
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They're almost a big Airfix kit you pay insurance and road tax on!!
Not sure about spares aplenty, but yes, there are model specific parts
suppliers who always advertise in the Classic mags.
Things to look out for in no particular order:
Torn hoods - can be expensive if particular style required and it's not black,
and some replacements come with HRW and there are two types of opening;
one has pins that hook into a opening frame, other has hooks on leading
edge. Important as only rear weather protection that will stop rot issues
lower down!!
Kingpins/trunnions - need almost constant upkeep and greasing and always
an MOT issue sometime or other.
main bodyshell floorpans and sills, bulkhead and rear inner wheelarches
- these areas are on top of the obvious chassis woes
talking of rust, the rear cones of the main bodyshell where they meet the
rear numberplate panel and the opening vent flap and it's surround.
Battery weight/fatigue splitting tray cut out in bulkhead on engine bay side.
Minor but important as combustible - cardboard heat collection pipes can
collapse onto inboard discs and send the lot up in flames!!
tired 'normal' struts that check the body shell level on top of worn main
longitudinal dampers.
knife edges of steering can wear and in fact have bad play on mounting
for tie rods.
Failure of reverse on gearbox - watch the gearbox carefully!!
play on steering column - I've had one actually break...
Generally, folk have the general impression these aren't real cars so don't
need the same upkeep and maintenance which is obviously not the case
but a reason they can be abused; probably the other reason for the major
cull of these after the chassis problems which now precede them!
Andrew
Not sure about spares aplenty, but yes, there are model specific parts
suppliers who always advertise in the Classic mags.
Things to look out for in no particular order:
Torn hoods - can be expensive if particular style required and it's not black,
and some replacements come with HRW and there are two types of opening;
one has pins that hook into a opening frame, other has hooks on leading
edge. Important as only rear weather protection that will stop rot issues
lower down!!
Kingpins/trunnions - need almost constant upkeep and greasing and always
an MOT issue sometime or other.
main bodyshell floorpans and sills, bulkhead and rear inner wheelarches
- these areas are on top of the obvious chassis woes
talking of rust, the rear cones of the main bodyshell where they meet the
rear numberplate panel and the opening vent flap and it's surround.
Battery weight/fatigue splitting tray cut out in bulkhead on engine bay side.
Minor but important as combustible - cardboard heat collection pipes can
collapse onto inboard discs and send the lot up in flames!!
tired 'normal' struts that check the body shell level on top of worn main
longitudinal dampers.
knife edges of steering can wear and in fact have bad play on mounting
for tie rods.
Failure of reverse on gearbox - watch the gearbox carefully!!
play on steering column - I've had one actually break...
Generally, folk have the general impression these aren't real cars so don't
need the same upkeep and maintenance which is obviously not the case
but a reason they can be abused; probably the other reason for the major
cull of these after the chassis problems which now precede them!
Andrew
most of what Andrew says, appart from the knife edges are triangular pins the conect the suspension rods to the arms,
the heater ductting very seldom falls down onto the exhaust and gose up in flames if the are not secured,
new roofs complete with rear screen are under £150
and Vince the clutch is a walk in the park,
2CV spare are very readaly avalible
regards malcolm
the heater ductting very seldom falls down onto the exhaust and gose up in flames if the are not secured,
new roofs complete with rear screen are under £150
and Vince the clutch is a walk in the park,
2CV spare are very readaly avalible
regards malcolm
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1993 Xantia 1.9 TD VSX Mk1 Sinker A.K.A Slugmobile 13'
'Old Katy'
previous convictions: totaling 52litres of LHM in one go:
1968 ID19B 'Old Polly' Stellar white
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker Silver
1992 XM 2.0 SEi Turbo Manual Anthracite Grey
1982 CX 20 Pallas 'Old Goldy'
1993 XM 2.1 SD Auto Light blue
1993 Xantia 1.9 TD SX Mk1 Sinker light Blue
1982 BX 16 TRS 'Cyril' Vallelunga Red
1995 Xantia 1.9 D SX Auto Dark green
1977 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Aphrodite' Regatta Blue
1982 GSA Pallas SE Silver Pearl
1980 CX 2000 Reflex Vallelunga Red
1978 CX 2400 Pallas C-Matic 'Prometheus' Midnight blue
1984 BX 14E 'Cecil the slugmobile' Maroon
1987 Fiat Panda 'the mighty panda' - x 97