Thanks to all, especially Jon who helped with the tensioner stuff, I now have the right one! It has been fitted.
Now however the engine is out of time. How do I set the timing on this (XU10J4) engine? How hard is it to do and what tools will I need?
The belt will also need to be tensioned properly. Is the adjustment on the new tensioner (i suspect so) or the rear one?
Thanx again.
How do I set the timing?
Moderator: RichardW
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roscopervis
- Posts: 43
- Joined: 24 Mar 2002, 23:28
- Location: United Kingdom
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Rosco,
Firstly, if you are referring to valve timing, DO NOT turn that motor over!! Valve timing being out would invariably mean that valves & pistons would start hitting and create a major project.
As an idea of what is required until someone with expertise in that model motor responds, I can tell you that on a BX 16V it is done by using stepped pins to hold the cogs on teh cams; these slip through a hole in each cog & into a smallet hole in the head. The crank is locked via a single pin.
The belt (on the BX) is adjusted starting at the front tensioner which is set to its maximum position then the rear is set. The tensioners have to be rotated in an ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction; this is done for a purpose. This is to maintain a constant place on the belt for the tensioner to apply pressure. A square 8mm rod about a foot long & bent at right angles at the last inch is used to set the tension fitted to a square hole inside the hub of the tensioner. The belt should turn at around 45 degrees at its longest run. The pins are then removed (all 3) and the engine rotated several times after which the crank is again locked and the two pins reinserted into the cam cogs. They should slide straight in. If they don't, repeat the process until they do, at which point the valve timing & belt tension is set to perfection as one is dependent on the other.
As I say, that's the BX 16V & no doubt someone will point out any differences between that & your car.
Alan S
Firstly, if you are referring to valve timing, DO NOT turn that motor over!! Valve timing being out would invariably mean that valves & pistons would start hitting and create a major project.
As an idea of what is required until someone with expertise in that model motor responds, I can tell you that on a BX 16V it is done by using stepped pins to hold the cogs on teh cams; these slip through a hole in each cog & into a smallet hole in the head. The crank is locked via a single pin.
The belt (on the BX) is adjusted starting at the front tensioner which is set to its maximum position then the rear is set. The tensioners have to be rotated in an ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction; this is done for a purpose. This is to maintain a constant place on the belt for the tensioner to apply pressure. A square 8mm rod about a foot long & bent at right angles at the last inch is used to set the tension fitted to a square hole inside the hub of the tensioner. The belt should turn at around 45 degrees at its longest run. The pins are then removed (all 3) and the engine rotated several times after which the crank is again locked and the two pins reinserted into the cam cogs. They should slide straight in. If they don't, repeat the process until they do, at which point the valve timing & belt tension is set to perfection as one is dependent on the other.
As I say, that's the BX 16V & no doubt someone will point out any differences between that & your car.
Alan S
Andrew -
If not allready - you MUST now buy a workshop manual for your specific car. These allways includes description on timing the engine - since it's a very common engine service job.
Explaining how to set the timing would be quite lengthy - and full of assumings about your knowledge on such a job.
Contact Andyspares for a Haynes manual on your car - they are very reasonably priced. (some £11 ex vat AFAIR) [:I]
If not allready - you MUST now buy a workshop manual for your specific car. These allways includes description on timing the engine - since it's a very common engine service job.
Explaining how to set the timing would be quite lengthy - and full of assumings about your knowledge on such a job.
Contact Andyspares for a Haynes manual on your car - they are very reasonably priced. (some £11 ex vat AFAIR) [:I]
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roscopervis
- Posts: 43
- Joined: 24 Mar 2002, 23:28
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
-
Jon
Ok, you need a diagram here to help, if the XU10J4 ain't in your Haynes, have a look at anything that covers the ZX 16v, or the Peugeot 405 2.0 Mi16 cos its the same engine.
Other sources of this info are the Autodata Timing Belts book which has a diagram and full instructions for changing th timing belt on basically any car, or, best of all the small Citroen workshop book which is called something like "Characteristics Adjustments and checks". They publish a new one every year so you want the 1994 or 1995 edition. Most dealers and specialists keep these books for years as they change annually, deleting old models and engines. Someone kind person might give you a photocopy of the page that you need.
Alternatively, most general Garages and Specialists will have the Autodata book, as its a real bible for all makes belt changes.
If I can source daigram, I will post it.
BTW the set up is very similar to the BX 16v but the belt on your Xantia has one extra tooth.
Other sources of this info are the Autodata Timing Belts book which has a diagram and full instructions for changing th timing belt on basically any car, or, best of all the small Citroen workshop book which is called something like "Characteristics Adjustments and checks". They publish a new one every year so you want the 1994 or 1995 edition. Most dealers and specialists keep these books for years as they change annually, deleting old models and engines. Someone kind person might give you a photocopy of the page that you need.
Alternatively, most general Garages and Specialists will have the Autodata book, as its a real bible for all makes belt changes.
If I can source daigram, I will post it.
BTW the set up is very similar to the BX 16v but the belt on your Xantia has one extra tooth.