xantia head gasket

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fangy
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Post by fangy »

Ok, got another one for you.
In the gasket set I bought, there were 2 cam oil seals. Do I only put one of these at the sprocket end and is the other side just an o-ring.?
Thanks again.
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Post by CitroJim »

fangy wrote:Ok, got another one for you.
In the gasket set I bought, there were 2 cam oil seals. Do I only put one of these at the sprocket end and is the other side just an o-ring.?
Thanks again.
Yep, just the one at the sprocket end Fangy.

The gasket set is generic and covers may variants of the engine. Early ones with a belt-driven PAS and Vacuum pump from the cam use the second seal.
Jim

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Post by fangy »

Thanks, I thought it was just the one but I just wanted to make sure, although I think I've messed up a bit, do you remember the picture of the barrel liner I posted

http://img181.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 755bq3.jpg

well i've put the head on the engine with the bolts in finger tight then i realised i've not gave the liner a rub with a scotch bright pad, do you think i could get away with not doing it? or will i need to take the head back off? if the head needs to come off again does that mean i'll need to buy a new head gasket? i've been taking my time with this so as not to make any mistakes, I don't know how i overlooked it. :(
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Post by CitroJim »

I'd not worry Fangy, Just squirt a bit f thin oil down through the glowpulg holes so the bores get well oiled and all should be well.

It would be a shame to lift it all again just for that.
Jim

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Post by fangy »

That's the best news I've heard for a while, I was dreading having to take it off again. Would an oil like 3in1 do or some engine oil.
Thanks,
Fangy.
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Post by CitroJim »

I'd use engine oil Fangy...
Jim

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Post by fangy »

Hi, I've got myself stuck again, could someone tell me how to connect the turbo? I don't know what pipe goes where, I marked them when I took them off, but now I can't make sense of it.
Thanks,
Fangy.
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Post by fangy »

I think I got them, but there's one other thing, on the fuel pump there's two gold coloured pipes,a big one and a small one, could someone tell me what connects on to the smaller one of the two?
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Post by CitroJim »

fangy wrote:I think I got them, but there's one other thing, on the fuel pump there's two gold coloured pipes,a big one and a small one, could someone tell me what connects on to the smaller one of the two?
Thanks,
Fangy.
Do you mean a pipe of about 7mm diamater with a 3mm 9ish) pipe tee'd into it?

That'll be the fuel return back to the tank on the larger and the leakoff pipe to the injectors on the little one...

If that does not seem right, post a picture and that'll help a positive ID.

I know what you mean about the turbo pipes. they can be a chinese puzzle!
Jim

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Post by fangy »

That sounds like the right one, I've not put the leak off pipes back on yet,they're still in the hut, that'll be why I couldn't find anything round about the engine that looked like it would fit. The turbo pipes where getting to me, I had marked them when I took them off, but I don't know what I was thinking when I done it, I couldn't make any sense of it, but got there in the end.
Thanks,
Fangy.
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Post by fangy »

Hi, I got the car started today, took it for a 10 minute run round the town,we'll take it further tomorrow, didn't want to break down in the dark.It seemed ok but there's a few things that's bothering me, first is it possible to over tighten the cam belt? I followed the manual, but when it's started it sounds different, a kind of rhythmic noise coming from the cam end of the engine. And secondly the cars idling faster, it's sitting about a needles thickness below one thousand RPM, I can't remember what it used to sit at but it sound slightly faster now, does anybody know how to slow down the tick over, or what I could have done wrong that would cause this?
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Post by CitroJim »

Well done Fangy :D Excellent work!

Generally, no, it is not possible to overtighten the cambelt if you observed the procedure as the cam tensioner is a s[pring and it can only exert a certain force. the BoL gives a good procedure. It's not a bad idea to recheck the tension after a few miles though. Sometimwes new belts do strum a bit as they settle in. When rechecking tension, also recheck the timing just to be 100% sure it's spot-on.

Don't forget your senses are on full red-alert on a newly rebuilt engine until some time has passed and you're sure all is good so a noise you did not notice in the past is now noticeable. It's perfectly normal 8)

The faster idle is likely to be that the fast-idle system is not working as it should. Fast-idle is the default and when the coolant temperature is up to 60 degrees the vacuum electrovalve operates to allow vacuum to the fast idle capsule and this should pull the cable in and slow the idle. The electrovalve often fails to work or you've simply forgtten to reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum pump, the electrical connection to the electrovalve or the vacuum line to the fast idle capsule. Easy done. The fast idle capsule is that round device that bolts onto the inlet manifold with a bowden cable going off to the injection pump. One quick test is to give the cable a tug and see if the idle slows. Did you correctly refit the vacuum pump?

So, apart from that, a success then? Well done!
Jim

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Post by fangy »

I'm getting there, this must be the longest head gasket job you've heard of? :) but thanks for sticking with me through it.

Just a few more questions.
Where is the vacuum pump? Is it in the round casing at the end of the head? When I took that off there was nothing inside it.

Where does the vacuum line come from?

Where is the electrovalve? and is the fast idle capsule the round thing that's bolted to the fuel filter/thermostat housing and connects by cable to the fuel pump, if so the cable isn't straight it looks like it could be stretched,there's quite a big arc in it. I've tried pulling at it but nothing changed.

I've got two connector blocks hanging loose, they weren't connected to anything when I started so I've no idea where they should go, I've put some pictures to see it helps ID them.

http://img525.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... ic1qs5.jpg

http://img367.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... ic2ns5.jpg

The second one hangs down by the sump.

Fangy.
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Post by CitroJim »

No, you have been quite quick at this major job actually Fangy!

Right, I see from the photo that yours is an early one (should have looked at your sig :oops: ) and therefore it won't have a vacuum pump, just a blanking plate/lump on the side of the head where a pump was fitted in later models so forget all I said about electrovalves and fast idle capsules!!!

Your fast idle is controlled by a waxstat in the side of the thermostat housing (a big alloy cylinder screwed into the side with a big hex on it). This will have a thin bowden cable coming out of it and disappearing off to the back of the pump. After a few years they pack up and never work properly for long in any case. The only way to adjust the idle is to tweak the screw on top of the pump but it's very difficult to get to. It's at the back of the pump and a tab on the throttle arm rests against it when on idle. I'd be inclined to leave it be if the idle is not too quick.

Those plugs. The first (three pin) may be the water in diesel warning sensor. Look for the socket for it on the lower back of the fuel filter housing. This warning light was onl;y on the very early ones and it may well ahve been deleted on yours but the wiring remained. The second two pin one I don't know off-hand. Are there two plugs plugged into the side of the Injection pump? The top socket is the stop solenoid and the lower is the glowplug post-heat cutoff switch and the engine will run fine with it disconnected.

Other than that, I cannot think at the moment :?
Jim

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Post by fangy »

Thanks Jim, I'll have a look at the idle screw tomorrow but If it's going to be a lot of hassle I'll just leave it, the tick over isn't to fast.
I'm glad to hear it's not got a vacuum pump, I thought I'd miss placed something during my first few days of panicking during the strip down.
Tomorrow I'll take a look at the fuel filter housing and injection pump and see if I can suss out the two connectors, but it's good to know it doesn't need them anyway.
Thanks again,
Fangy.
95 Xantia VSX 1.9td, Fj1100, z-750 hardtail
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