Xantia overhaul
Moderator: RichardW
I'm constanty surprised by the number of loose sumps I've found on engines that have been in use for years! Many a leak has been stopped simply by tightening the things.
Oil could be coming from the rocker cover or even the front vent hoses as the airflow tends to blow it round the side of the block. Another possibility is the final drive/drive shaft seals.
Oil could be coming from the rocker cover or even the front vent hoses as the airflow tends to blow it round the side of the block. Another possibility is the final drive/drive shaft seals.
jeremy
ok i missed that one straight over my headjgra1 wrote:thanks both
will keep you posted....
odd cars xantias, rule book out of window a bit regarding this kind of work...
edit
Malcolm
I would never move the car without the driveshafts lolI want to be able to put DS and wheels back on so I can move car once engine is out..
regards malcolm
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John,
That's a fantastic blog You have a nasty problem there with the cam cap. They're matched to the head (or rather they're line-bored) at manufacture and cannot be reliably replaced with another. The head is effectively written off unless you're very lucky. If you can get hold of a handful, you might be lucky and find one that will do. You want to select one that does not cause the cam to bind or allow it too much play. You could do with some "Plastigauge" to compare running clearances with one of your good caps. You may also be able to "scrape" the correct clearance on a nearly right cap as they did in the old days with white metal big ends. If the head is otherwise OK, it is worth a go to save it.
Strange that a cap broke as they only normally "go" with a broken cam belt. Look for impressions of valves on the piston crowns when you clean them up for evidence.
Your Aux belt tensioner needs replacing urgently as well, it's showing the calssic signs of the needle rollers failing. Luckily not too expensive.
Shocked at what SVO and WVO has done to the filter
Bellhousings get terribly dirty. I've seen a lot worse that yours..
I'll reply to your PM in a bit
That's a fantastic blog You have a nasty problem there with the cam cap. They're matched to the head (or rather they're line-bored) at manufacture and cannot be reliably replaced with another. The head is effectively written off unless you're very lucky. If you can get hold of a handful, you might be lucky and find one that will do. You want to select one that does not cause the cam to bind or allow it too much play. You could do with some "Plastigauge" to compare running clearances with one of your good caps. You may also be able to "scrape" the correct clearance on a nearly right cap as they did in the old days with white metal big ends. If the head is otherwise OK, it is worth a go to save it.
Strange that a cap broke as they only normally "go" with a broken cam belt. Look for impressions of valves on the piston crowns when you clean them up for evidence.
Your Aux belt tensioner needs replacing urgently as well, it's showing the calssic signs of the needle rollers failing. Luckily not too expensive.
Shocked at what SVO and WVO has done to the filter
Bellhousings get terribly dirty. I've seen a lot worse that yours..
I'll reply to your PM in a bit
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Excellent stuff John I take it you have a spare head complete?jgra1 wrote:Jim, thanks
see blog again
The appearance of the valves and head look, to me, fairly typical of a head that has run on veg for some time. I found Xac's head to be in about the same condition as yours when we lifted it. Like yours, we lifted Xac's head due to a bust cam cap and it was spotlessly clean. It looked like it had just been in a cleaning tank. His piston crowns were spotless as well, so much that you could see imprints of his valves where a cambelt problem had allowed intimate contact between piston and valve
My take on it is that veg makes the engine run a little hotter and thus the soft carbon as usually seen when running on DERV is not able to form, due maybe to the unburned heavy ends of the veg having a similar scouring effect as they do on tanks and fuel lines.
It did at least reassure me that running on veg seems to have no detrimental effect on this part of the engine at least.
Jim
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hi Jim
yep have a spare good engine here.. the last 5 or so pics in the blog are all of the spare head.. the original one was pretty much consigned to the bin without wasting anytime on it..
That spare head is from a DERV car, the fuel filter looks brand new too !
The valve caps were black to begin with, whereas the veg ones were silver..
To be honest I did not even invert my veg oil head to look at valves, may do in a sec
yep have a spare good engine here.. the last 5 or so pics in the blog are all of the spare head.. the original one was pretty much consigned to the bin without wasting anytime on it..
That spare head is from a DERV car, the fuel filter looks brand new too !
The valve caps were black to begin with, whereas the veg ones were silver..
To be honest I did not even invert my veg oil head to look at valves, may do in a sec
Back in 1992, when spare XUD engines were still difficult (i.e. expensive) to get hold of my 305 had a broken cam bearing cap. My resourceful mate glued it together and made a plate to go over the top and brace it. It seemed to do the trick all right.
Richard
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That's a great idea And even now, it's worth a go as it's a desperate shame to bin an otherwise good head What glue did he use?reblack68 wrote:Back in 1992, when spare XUD engines were still difficult (i.e. expensive) to get hold of my 305 had a broken cam bearing cap. My resourceful mate glued it together and made a plate to go over the top and brace it. It seemed to do the trick all right.
John, don't bin your old head just yet. Have a good look at it and if it's just a broken cap, stash it away for a rainy day. I have a head with a duff cam journal and a broken cap stashed away, just in case.
Sorry for thinking the head pictures were of the one from the engine running on Veg John. It sure looks clean and good!
Jim
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thanks Jim
about the LHM leak.. I have mailed you a high res pic of right side engine bay.. Could you try highlighting where you think it may come from? The usual places...
The green puddle that forms is definately to the right ...
I will have a good look later as I want that fixed before I put lump back together...
Thanks
about the LHM leak.. I have mailed you a high res pic of right side engine bay.. Could you try highlighting where you think it may come from? The usual places...
The green puddle that forms is definately to the right ...
I will have a good look later as I want that fixed before I put lump back together...
Thanks
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Hi John,
Just had a look at the picture. At least it's well rustproofed arround there!
An LHM leak in that area can come from two places possibly. One easy, the other not so
The easy one is the leakage return pipe from the brake dosuer valve being perished or fallen off.
The more difficult one is the steering rack pinion valve leaking
They can be easily replaced with the engine out of the way but they're not cheap, costing the thick end of £100 new. If it is this, it might be worth a chat with Martin at Pleiades as I believe he does refurbished ones.
When I have a moment, I'll have a look at Laser and see if your local stealer offers an overhaul kit for them.
Just had a look at the picture. At least it's well rustproofed arround there!
An LHM leak in that area can come from two places possibly. One easy, the other not so
The easy one is the leakage return pipe from the brake dosuer valve being perished or fallen off.
The more difficult one is the steering rack pinion valve leaking
They can be easily replaced with the engine out of the way but they're not cheap, costing the thick end of £100 new. If it is this, it might be worth a chat with Martin at Pleiades as I believe he does refurbished ones.
When I have a moment, I'll have a look at Laser and see if your local stealer offers an overhaul kit for them.
Jim
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