Xantia overhaul

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jgra1
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Xantia overhaul

Post by jgra1 »

Well.. I have been putting it off a while.. but placing cardboard under the subframe every time I stop is getting on my nerves..


So my Xantia that has run so well for 12000 miles in 6 months is coming off the road this weekend to be pulled apart :(

I have:
Clutch (Valeo)
Cambelt
Cambelt tensioner
Top end set
HG

And still to aqquire

Oil and Fuel filters
Head bolts
?shims
Sump gasket
Oil/Coolant
Box oil
DS seals
Release arm bushes maybe

Also need to find an LHM leak from the steering area, which is costing a litre a month and damaging the cardboard :)

plus suspected droplink knocking..

Its a big service.. need a makeshift patio and a gazeebo building this weekend before I can begin, hoping for 2 weeks maximum start to finish..

Wish me luck :)

John
lolingram
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Post by lolingram »

Wish me luck

John
Good luck John!
R.I.P. January 2010.
XM 2.1 auto VSX 1996 - Bosch Inj, Xantia HDi 90 estate 1999, Xantia 1.9TD 1997
Previously...
GS 1970, Dyane 1974, Xantia 94 VSX TD, XM 94, 2.1 auto - Lucas Inj, XM 92 2.1 estate - Lucas Inj
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

thanks Lol

lol


will take some snaps...
citronut
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Post by citronut »

now you have got those manuals you will be able to fix the lot, and find stuff you didnt know needed fixing, HE HE HE
regards malcolm
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

:twisted:

thanks Loopy
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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

jgra1 wrote::twisted:

thanks Loopy
Don't worry John, that's Superloopy speak for "All the best and if you need me, I'll be straight round, armed with my new manuals to help you".

Seriously John, good luck, have fun and enjoy the huge satisfaction for your achievements and your transformed car. I know that feeling rather well this evening after swapping my heater matrix :D Have a look in my blog for the full story...

Come here often and keep us up to date. Perhaps you'd like to satrt a blog to record your adventures?
Jim

Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Post by red_dwarfers »

Good luck John! :wink:
Kev

'19 C4 Cactus 130 Flair
jgra1
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Post by jgra1 »

:lol:

will make lots of pics..

may have to hand them to Jim for posting on here as I dont think I have a webspace..

will look into the blog option though..
jgra1
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Honda V F R 800 5thG / MT500 Armstrong
x 39

Post by jgra1 »

chaps I am having trouble thinking something through...

I need to be able to get under car for exhaust, gear-linkage, driveshaft removal etc. I would normally use ramps...

But,

I also need the wheels off the ground for driveshaft removal.

But I also need suspension on LOW ...

I want to be able to put DS and wheels back on so I can move car once engine is out..

I guess my question is, With LOW set and depressurised, will it matter if in fact the struts are hanging, extended....

does that make any sense?

may start tonight as I finished the makeshift patio last night ;)
andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

If you redid the bottom of the strut leg back onto the lower wishbone ball
joint and braced the strut leg with the bodyshell in it's fully extended high
position as well as support the rear suspension you'll be OK.

You can brace the front strut against the wheel arch crown with some
stout/maple timber as per:

Image

(yes it was a failed strut and this is how I got the car driven to my garage)

and block the rear arm against the bodyshell mounted bumpstops to prevent
the car dropping down but you won't have very much steering movement for
obvious limited steering allowed with the tab of the drop link off the strut.

Don't forget to undo the nuts on the driveshaft ends first before you even
think about doing any additional spannering!!

Andrew
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Post by citronut »

i would strongly advise you do not move the car about on its wheels whilst the drive shafts are removed, unless you would like to replace the front wheel bearings as well as all the other jobs you are doing, as doing this almost certainly will ripp the drive flanges right out of the hub bearings, thuss rendering the bearings usless,

when we rebiult my daghters dersh i used a pair of scrap CV joints as dummys in the hubs
regards malcolm
andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

Guess it'll all depend on how much movement is required with the car

I'd certainly not advocate any movement with the timber supports on the
front strut as I pictured and that it'd be no more than getting the car to
appear together and on it's feet without the place looking like a scrap yard
whilst work is taking a break off the car; I know what it's like to have nosy
neighbours looking down their noses at any home DIY maintenance and a
belt & braces concern for yours or the neighbourhood's kids, cats & dogs
being underfoot all the time with a mind to safely supporting the car!!

Andrew
andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

Forgot to finish by taking up Malcolm's point that once the CV of the
driveshaft is off, it's good practice to fully wrap up and protect the
hubs' wheel bearing race from the damp/weather etc even if the car
isn't going to be moved or sat back on the floor again.

I'm probably teaching Granny to suck eggs here but thought it worth
mentioning here anyhow!!

Andrew
jgra1
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My Cars: 2010 C5 X7 2.0 hdi 160 exc auto
MG TF 135
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BMW R1200RT
BMW K1300 R
Honda V F R 800 5thG / MT500 Armstrong
x 39

Post by jgra1 »

thanks both :D

will keep you posted....

odd cars xantias, rule book out of window a bit regarding this kind of work...

edit

Malcolm
I want to be able to put DS and wheels back on so I can move car once engine is out..
I would never move the car without the driveshafts lol
jgra1
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Posts: 4625
Joined: 27 Nov 2005, 19:07
Location: Kent / Susssex
My Cars: 2010 C5 X7 2.0 hdi 160 exc auto
MG TF 135
Boxer II 2.2 camper conversion
BMW R1200RT
BMW K1300 R
Honda V F R 800 5thG / MT500 Armstrong
x 39

Post by jgra1 »

Well engine is out on the floor.. much harder than I thought, having only really taken out old N/A engines, usually without needing to put them back in !

It took 6 1/2 hours solo to remove the lump..

I will figure out a blog if I can find out where to serve it from.

One thing that has occured to me, looking at pics of the back of the engine... the sump gasket is kaputt.. could oil from this creep up the inclined block/head and cover everything... dripping from sub frame when I stop? (I originaly thought the HG was the only place the oil leak could come from, and was ready to take head off to try and remedy this.. dont want to if i dont need to)

John
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