Right side engine mounting bracket
Moderator: RichardW
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Right side engine mounting bracket
I'm a little unsure how to proceed here. Do I need to remove this bracket before I can remove the head? Haynes says I need to brace the plunger first?
- CitroJim
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Yes, you do Mike, You'll find that it is dowelled into the head.
Don't worry about the plunger, remove the tensioner and the plunger will very gently ease out of its housing in the mount. It's easy enough to replace too. The tensioner is just one bolt (its locker) and one nut, on its pivot. You will find no pent-up tension in the plunger spring and it will not make a bid for freedom
The mount is held with four bolts, one of which is a bit buried. You'll need a cranked ring for that one. Once all the bolts are out, pull it and recover the dowel pin. It may stay in the head or in the mount. More than likely the head.
Then you are ready to remove the head bolts. Be careful, they're stretch bolts and will feel a bit rubbery. Don't exceed their elasticity or they might snap. let them follow you around it fou get my meaning!
Don't worry about the plunger, remove the tensioner and the plunger will very gently ease out of its housing in the mount. It's easy enough to replace too. The tensioner is just one bolt (its locker) and one nut, on its pivot. You will find no pent-up tension in the plunger spring and it will not make a bid for freedom
The mount is held with four bolts, one of which is a bit buried. You'll need a cranked ring for that one. Once all the bolts are out, pull it and recover the dowel pin. It may stay in the head or in the mount. More than likely the head.
Then you are ready to remove the head bolts. Be careful, they're stretch bolts and will feel a bit rubbery. Don't exceed their elasticity or they might snap. let them follow you around it fou get my meaning!
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
You will have to support the engine when you remove the right hand mounting bracket. On my BX it tends to tip backwards so keep an eye on it - especially at the front to make sure nothing gets stuck through the radiator.
The plunger will stay in place unless you remove the tensioners for replacement.
The plunger will stay in place unless you remove the tensioners for replacement.
jeremy
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Although the bracket is still attached, the mounting is off while the sump is sitting on a block of wood resting on the front wheel.
I've seen it could go back, didn't know it could fall forward I've not any safeguard in place either . Possibly of benefit is the front of the car is on axle stands and the rear is sitting fully lowered. I'm off to stuff a load of padding in the bay!
I've seen it could go back, didn't know it could fall forward I've not any safeguard in place either . Possibly of benefit is the front of the car is on axle stands and the rear is sitting fully lowered. I'm off to stuff a load of padding in the bay!
Sorry for confusing things - certainly my BX tips backwards with some determination when the top bracket is removed and the engine raised and lowered - but you still need to keep an eye on the front in case tipping causes something (like an alternator or pump) to move closer to the radiator). This is more likely for low-mounted components.
The engine will actually pivot on a line from the mount over the gearbox and the lower back mounting.
The engine will actually pivot on a line from the mount over the gearbox and the lower back mounting.
jeremy
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That wasn't my experience Jim! The rifle-crack caught me by surprise but I think no damage done, thankfully. 8)citrojim wrote:Don't worry about the plunger, remove the tensioner and the plunger will very gently ease out of its housing in the mount....it will not make a bid for freedom
I now know why it's necessary to remove the cam pulley and I should have done it before as I was unable to lock it at this point but fortunately(?) the bolt wasn't tight and gave up with little fuss.
Again, not my experience, they all "cracked" open, no elasticity at all. So all bolts are hand loose, ready to come off, then it's just a matter of levering the head to break the seal and off she'll come! However, with a trillion winged-ants currently looking for a cosy hole to call home and begin a family I decided to leave it at that for now. I doubt I could lift the head myself anyway.citrojim wrote:Then you are ready to remove the head bolts. Be careful, they're stretch bolts and will feel a bit rubbery. Don't exceed their elasticity or they might snap. let them follow you around it fou get my meaning!
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2008 C5 X7 1.6HDI VTR+ Saloon - x 231
Don't be, I'm more than happy to receive experienced advise.jeremy wrote:Sorry for confusing things
Fortunately, it's predictable and controllable in it's movement - raise it higher than the mounting point and it tips back towards the firewall while lowering it below will see it move forward - very handy for withdrawing the engine mount bracket!
Cheers.
- CitroJim
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Mike, I'm delighted all the bolts came out without a fight All over bar the shouting now
Well done that man! As I say, next weekend it'll be back on the road...
The head is not too heavy but watch for the dowel in one corner as you ease it off. It can be lifted solo but is so much easier with help, especially with your back.
Sorry for the misadvice with the plunger I have never had an issue with them as I should have added my method: keep the the pivot nut on the tensioner tight, aremove the locking bolt and gently loosen the pivot nut so the spring gently spins the tensioner around on its pivot. This takes all the tension out of it in a controlled manner.
Well done that man! As I say, next weekend it'll be back on the road...
The head is not too heavy but watch for the dowel in one corner as you ease it off. It can be lifted solo but is so much easier with help, especially with your back.
Sorry for the misadvice with the plunger I have never had an issue with them as I should have added my method: keep the the pivot nut on the tensioner tight, aremove the locking bolt and gently loosen the pivot nut so the spring gently spins the tensioner around on its pivot. This takes all the tension out of it in a controlled manner.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- Posts: 4809
- Joined: 11 Jun 2007, 16:17
- Location: Christchurch, Dorset. UK
- My Cars: 2005 C5restyle 1.6HDI 16v 110hp VTR Estate
2008 C5 X7 1.6HDI VTR+ Saloon - x 231
Thanks Jim, no worries about the plunger, I knew it was under big tension but not a problem. At least I can now study the mechanics of it all as there's nothing worse than re-assembling blind IMO.
It's interesting to note the tensioner and idler pulleys are like new and the water pump appears to be in very good condition too. Again, there's nothing in the service history about these items though. It would be very beneficial if I don't need to replace them.
I doubt I could refit it all in a week even if I wanted to, but thanks for the vote of confidence and encouragement. If it's just a failed gasket, then the work is only just beginning 8)
Although I've been saving for spares, I don't have enough for it all yet so the rebuild may take as long as the strip down. I'd also like to make some modifications while I've got the space. It would be ideal if I could fit a fairly large conduit running from the engine bay to the dash firstly for my turbo gauge and a beefy electrical feed or two but also for possible future additions. Any ideas? I've seen some ready made holes in the drivers side wing but cannot tell where/if they emerge inside the cabin.
It's interesting to note the tensioner and idler pulleys are like new and the water pump appears to be in very good condition too. Again, there's nothing in the service history about these items though. It would be very beneficial if I don't need to replace them.
I doubt I could refit it all in a week even if I wanted to, but thanks for the vote of confidence and encouragement. If it's just a failed gasket, then the work is only just beginning 8)
Although I've been saving for spares, I don't have enough for it all yet so the rebuild may take as long as the strip down. I'd also like to make some modifications while I've got the space. It would be ideal if I could fit a fairly large conduit running from the engine bay to the dash firstly for my turbo gauge and a beefy electrical feed or two but also for possible future additions. Any ideas? I've seen some ready made holes in the drivers side wing but cannot tell where/if they emerge inside the cabin.