Positioning axle stands
Moderator: RichardW
Positioning axle stands
Where's the best place for them on a Xantia? Seems a silly question I know but I am going to have a look at my rear height corrector tomorrow and really don't want the car crushing me. So where can they go? (Pictures would be a bonus)
I know the car can collapse if not supported. What can I expect to happen if it loses pressure and it is properly supported? Just don't want any surprises
Thanks
I know the car can collapse if not supported. What can I expect to happen if it loses pressure and it is properly supported? Just don't want any surprises
Thanks
- CitroJim
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Hi Toby,
I always just set the car on high, jack a little if necessary on the front or rear subframe and position the axle stands on the hardened sill jacking points (i.e. between the "pips") and then let the suspension down so the car is on the stands. I always rock the car violently to ensure it is really secure on the stands and that all three feet of the stand is in good, solid contact with the ground. Only ever work on a solid concrete surface and NEVER on a tramac surface as axle stands can sink a long way into tarmac. Likewise gravel. If you must jack up and support on a tarmac or gravel surface, use a concrete slab or something like a railway sleeper under each stand to spread the load.
If the car should collapse from say, high to low when you're under it working on a height corrector say, you WILL be killed or seriously injured. A Xantia is a heavy car and on low, there is very little room under there. You just cannot be too careful and never, ever take a risk.
I always just set the car on high, jack a little if necessary on the front or rear subframe and position the axle stands on the hardened sill jacking points (i.e. between the "pips") and then let the suspension down so the car is on the stands. I always rock the car violently to ensure it is really secure on the stands and that all three feet of the stand is in good, solid contact with the ground. Only ever work on a solid concrete surface and NEVER on a tramac surface as axle stands can sink a long way into tarmac. Likewise gravel. If you must jack up and support on a tarmac or gravel surface, use a concrete slab or something like a railway sleeper under each stand to spread the load.
If the car should collapse from say, high to low when you're under it working on a height corrector say, you WILL be killed or seriously injured. A Xantia is a heavy car and on low, there is very little room under there. You just cannot be too careful and never, ever take a risk.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
with XANTs there is nothing in the centre at the rear to jack the car by, so with the car on a hard surface as Jim described, i allways put my trolley jack under one of the rear most corners of the the rear sub frame, jack it qute high and place a good solid pair of stands under each rear sub frame mounting bolt head, which you will find just in front of the rear sub frame, this method must only be used on a level surface,
the front is easyer jack in the centre of the sub frame, gently whilst whatching the rear stands dont move, then put another pair of stands one each side under the tail ends of the front sub frame, beside the bolt heads
regards malcolm
the front is easyer jack in the centre of the sub frame, gently whilst whatching the rear stands dont move, then put another pair of stands one each side under the tail ends of the front sub frame, beside the bolt heads
regards malcolm
- CitroJim
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I guess you mean the little white plastic link Toby?
Firstly, before you even try to pop it back on, ensure the height corrector mechanism is not seized up and is free to move. A seized height corrector is the usual reason why the link pops off in the first place. A good douse in WD40 and manual manipulation will often free them off but to do the job properly, the HC needs to come off and be subject to a good clean and lubricate. If it is really bad, you may even have to replace it. The rear really suffers as unlike the front, it does not get any fortutious lubrication from engine oil leaks...
Once the mechanism is free, one method to get the link back on is to jack up one wheel on the trailing arm or even jack up on the tyre if your trolley jack will go under. This will rotate the anti-roll bar and bring the link in line with the ball.
Do give the balls a tiny smear of grease but not too much or hydraulic action (from the excess grease) will prevent you popping the link on or may break the link.
Once all is happy, give the mechanism a real good soak in light grease. I find the grease that comes in aerosol cans good for HC lubrication but it does need fairly frequent reapplication. Don't overdo it though as the MOT man may fail the car, believing the HC is leaking!
Firstly, before you even try to pop it back on, ensure the height corrector mechanism is not seized up and is free to move. A seized height corrector is the usual reason why the link pops off in the first place. A good douse in WD40 and manual manipulation will often free them off but to do the job properly, the HC needs to come off and be subject to a good clean and lubricate. If it is really bad, you may even have to replace it. The rear really suffers as unlike the front, it does not get any fortutious lubrication from engine oil leaks...
Once the mechanism is free, one method to get the link back on is to jack up one wheel on the trailing arm or even jack up on the tyre if your trolley jack will go under. This will rotate the anti-roll bar and bring the link in line with the ball.
Do give the balls a tiny smear of grease but not too much or hydraulic action (from the excess grease) will prevent you popping the link on or may break the link.
Once all is happy, give the mechanism a real good soak in light grease. I find the grease that comes in aerosol cans good for HC lubrication but it does need fairly frequent reapplication. Don't overdo it though as the MOT man may fail the car, believing the HC is leaking!
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
No luck today. Going to look at a BoL I d/l on t'internet. See about taking the whole mechanism off. Is fairly free of grease atm and think it would be better to put some on.
Problem I am having is I have no ramps to put weight on the back wheels. Am sure a couple of jacks would solve this but I figure there's no point today if the HC needs taking off for a clean.
Once I've got this done can start thinking about sphere replacement etc.
Problem I am having is I have no ramps to put weight on the back wheels. Am sure a couple of jacks would solve this but I figure there's no point today if the HC needs taking off for a clean.
Once I've got this done can start thinking about sphere replacement etc.
- CitroJim
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For this kind of HC work, you're better off with the rear end up on stands Toby, at least you then have the wheels clear of the ground to enable you to jack them up and down to get the link in the right place to pop back on.
If you do have the whole HC off, you must replace the three 3.5mm hydraulic seals on the pipes and a high quality hex 8mm flare nut spanner and Plus-Gas is ESSENTIAL to remove the hydraulic pipe unions successfully.
If you don't have these items, don't attempt to undo the hydraulic unions as you risk rounding off the nuts. They're very tight and will be a bit corroded in place due to dissimilar metal reaction against the steel of the union and the aluminium of the HC body.
If you do have the whole HC off, you must replace the three 3.5mm hydraulic seals on the pipes and a high quality hex 8mm flare nut spanner and Plus-Gas is ESSENTIAL to remove the hydraulic pipe unions successfully.
If you don't have these items, don't attempt to undo the hydraulic unions as you risk rounding off the nuts. They're very tight and will be a bit corroded in place due to dissimilar metal reaction against the steel of the union and the aluminium of the HC body.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
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- x 6183
- Contact:
Yep, no problem. Use a baulk of wood on the trailing arm and jack up on that to position the anti-roll bar. It's the technique we Activa owners use to position the rear ram for bush replacement.Toby_HDi wrote: None of the jacks I have go underneath them. Any suggestions?
failing that, pop off the wheel to give you some more space but don't jack on the brake disc or hub as it'll spin and throw tha jack.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Lever the HC arm to align the plastic cup. Always replace the plastic arm as they wear and will just keep popping off. About £1.20 from Citroen, oddly enough.Toby_HDi wrote:Right looking at the height adjuster. the rod has popped off. Can't quite get it to reach the ball to put it back on. Any ideas?
exactly what the wheel did earlier!!. threw the jack right at my hand. (2ton hydraulic jack)citrojim wrote:....but don't jack on the brake disc or hub as it'll spin and throw tha jack.
MikeT, thanks for that. I wonder, if I could get it over to Christchurch whether you could give me a hand and advise me? Hope you don't think I'm being cheeky.
Thanks
Last edited by Toby_HDi on 17 Jul 2008, 19:38, edited 1 time in total.