Putting the wheels back on

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UFO
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Post by UFO »

If you do use a piece of threaded rod (which is a very useful idea) make sure you burr it or modify it in some way so that it can only go into the thread on the hub enough to allow you to mount the wheel. A friend managed to smash an ABS sensor on a rear wheel of his Xantia as the rod had gone through too far and as the wheel rotated - WHACK. Some $220 later he had a new ABS sensor fitted.
Craig Keller
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talbotsteve
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Post by talbotsteve »

Try these i have them on my bx and will soon have them on my xantia, only down side is if the nut tightens up too much on the stud it can pull the stud back out when loosening, though its unlikely all four would come back out. just use a good strong glue to lock the studs in place.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEUGEOT-205-306-4 ... .m20.l1116
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Post by andmcit »

Interesting!! Really only need 4: I think one each hub would be all that's
necessary to hang the wheel back onto the hub and have it aligned to
correctly bolt the normal bolts on.

These would be fine for the 60degree taper wheels which are steels but no
use as alternatives to the square shoulder one's that are used on alloys
which are the real pain to fit - removal of the centre cap helps alignment
but of course there are some alloys on later Xm and Xantia that are solid
with no removable centre cap.

The answer is simple = don't take the wheel off in the first place! ;)

Andrew
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Post by f00lzz »

andmcit wrote:Stating the obvious perhaps but aligning the hub threads at 9 o'clock
and picking up the alloy with the same relative reference point is a good
way to start and removal of the centre cap allows you to align the central
spiggot that effectively is the bearing shoulder for the wheel.

I guess plenty of faffing about is good practice but it's still a rubbish
design! A decent deep reach socket and bar helps too.

Andrew
Unless of course you have the alloy wheels with no centre hole ... Oh Joy!
Ian
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talbotsteve
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Post by talbotsteve »

andmcit wrote: These would be fine for the 60degree taper wheels which are steels but no
use as alternatives to the square shoulder one's that are used on alloys
which are the real pain to fit
Andrew
Flat faced nuts are available for this conversion too. :D
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

handyman wrote:A short threaded bar or a long bolt with the head cut off is the easiest way to align the wheel and bolt holes. If you want to make up your own, the thread form is M12x1.25 pitch and is an ISO standard so should be available from your local stockist.

I just loosely screw it in one hole, drop on the wheel and offer up the other three, then unscrew the bar and finish the tightening up of all the wheel bolts.

The reason why Citroen, along with other manufacturers, use this method rather than studs and nuts is down to cost. It is cheaper to make one hole and supply a bolts than one hole, stud and nut.

If anybody has trouble getting a locating stud, PM me.

Handyman
A very simple - yet still a great tip 8)
Anders (DK) - '90 BX16Image
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Post by FrenchLeave »

As a 75 year old I struggled with this problem for years on my XMs, tried turning off the heads of a couple of wheel bolts to locate the wheels (limited success), and then hit on a foolproof - necessary in my case, and easy - same again, method.

Position the hub with one mounting hole uppermost. Stand the wheel alongside it, also with one hole uppermost. I use a long screwdriver but a 12" length of 1/2" (12mm) rod will do, insert the screwdriver/rod into the top wheel hole and then into the top hub hole. Lift the outer end of the screwdriver/rod, the leverage makes lifting the wheel easy. The wheel will slide down the shaft and locate perfectly with the hub. Screw in a couple of wheel bolts and Bob is, as they say, your uncle.

You don't have to struggle lifting a heavy wheel, nor do you have to sit on the ground. My long screwdriver always rides in the boot of my cars just in case.

PS On measuring, a 1/2" bar is too thick; 5/16" - 3/8" (8 - 9.5mm) is OK. My favoured screwdriver has a six inch long shaft, 5/16" diam. and with a 3/8" blade.
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